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#1
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Michel, welcome!
Upon re-reading your post it seems like a wiring break. Since you only get this problem in motion. This will be tough to find but some scouting might show where work has been done on the loom or maybe from installation of aftermarket electronics. The other things that come to mind, make sure your ground connections are tight. Some of the items you mention are governed by the GM module, windows, wipers. GM modules are cheap and could be worth trying a swap. As to help, the only good BMW indy I know about is in the north, Autohuis Buursema in Leek. If you are near there, you might try them, they seem capable.
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2003 4.4i black ext./black int./black headliner (kid's runabout) 2014 535d X-drive, M package, silver/black interior Sold but not forgotten: 2009 E70 35d, black ext./black int./black headliner (sold 2021) 2006 4.8iS Le Mans blue/cream int./black headliner, SOLD in 2012 sadly... Other hardware: 2015 Cayenne S (wife's new DD and definitely wroooommmmm) 2016 Tundra 1794 edition crew cab, luxo hauler 2005 Tundra crew cab, weekend hauler. Sold after 150k very happy miles. Last edited by TriX5; 12-02-2021 at 09:55 AM. |
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#2
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TriX has a great suggestion: Check the grounds. All of them!
I seem to remember swapping a motor years ago on an older Bronco and we didn't tighten the ground strap from the block to the firewall and I was having all sorts of weird happening. Turns out that's what it was. We had only put it on finger tight, so when we were looking around, it looked like all was well. Only after putting a wrench on it did the ground actually ground. Coincidentally, I just had another ground issue that was making my lights wonky. Grounding is very important in the electrical loop! Welcome and good luck!
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2004 X5 4.4 Build 01/04 Alpine White on Schwarz Dakota Leather, Anthracite Headliner Xtrons Android HU, SPORT PKG, COLD WEATHER PKG(W/REAR HEATED SEATS AND HEATED STEERING WHEEL), CONVENIENCE PKG, FACTORY HITCH |
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#3
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flex all of your ground wires while checking them
Quote:
Within twenty minutes of leaving the shop, the sputtering/flickering occurred again, so I drove to my Grandfather's house to park it (and borrow his car). I went directly to Radio Shack and bought my first good multimeter, and long test leads & clips. Then, I proceeded to test every ground in the car. I found nothing wrong, so I asked my Grandad what he thought. He said that he'd disconnect/reconnect all electrical grounds one at a time. He reached over and grabbed the main battery ground in preparation to disconnect, and moved it about two inches, when my meter showed no continuity. I then removed the cable (good condition on both ends, with a light blue plastic sheathing...I can see it in my mind), and stripped the sheathing off of it; there was a corroded section at the mid-point of the cable, with zero corrosion showing elsewhere. If I, or the Volvo techs had simply flexed the cable far enough, the problem would've been spotted. Afterwards, I figured that the sputtering/flickering incidences had all occurred on roads bumpier than the smooth city streets that the techs test-drove on.
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
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#4
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Quote:
Welcome!
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Dallas |
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