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  #81  
Old 01-06-2022, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Overboost View Post
It leaked for days, draining it hot would not make any difference. Mine leaked for 4 to 5 days like the picture below. Some have just put the sealer on and moved on without any issues but I wanted to make sure I had no oil contamination on that seal at the seam. I only wanted to do it once.



Draining the oil hot absolutely makes a huge difference in my experience.

As for that spot, if you just stuff a lint free rag up far enough to get any nearby residual oil, you'll have time to put your sealer in and the pan on before anything else gets there.

One *huge* time saver in getting oil pans on is something like the milwaukee 1/4" impact. With the screw shooter setting, it'll put the bolts down to 3-4 ft-lbs. so you get the pan on and tight-ish super fast.
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  #82  
Old 01-06-2022, 01:50 PM
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Checked out a 5 speed 3.0 today

The "speed one" setting on M18 or M12 hex impact is the very best way to shoot up 20-30 bolts with no risk of stripping. Pay attention to the 2-4 that are a different length.
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  #83  
Old 01-06-2022, 02:51 PM
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If it helps, I bought a quickjack and my undercarriage STILL doesn't look like that
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  #84  
Old 01-06-2022, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewwynn View Post
The "speed one" setting on M18 or M12 hex impact is the very best way to shoot up 20-30 bolts with no risk of stripping. Pay attention to the 2-4 that are a different length.
The sheet metal screw setting is even better. You get the speed of setting 3, but the gun cuts off the second it detects any resistance. I liked the 1/4" hex impact so much that I actually bought the basically identical 1/4" square impact for 2.5x the price. (The 2553 hex impact is the bargain. I've picked up a few of them for $50/per on FB marketplace. Screaming deal.)
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  #85  
Old 01-06-2022, 06:10 PM
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I'll try the screw setting next time that would be a lot faster.

I think I used speed two actually when I replaced oil pan I just stopped at the first tap. Then I went around every other bolt just shy of set torque with torque adapter. (odd then even bolts) followed up same pattern at spec
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  #86  
Old 01-06-2022, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nick325xit 5spd View Post
Draining the oil hot absolutely makes a huge difference in my experience.

As for that spot, if you just stuff a lint free rag up far enough to get any nearby residual oil, you'll have time to put your sealer in and the pan on before anything else gets there.

One *huge* time saver in getting oil pans on is something like the milwaukee 1/4" impact. With the screw shooter setting, it'll put the bolts down to 3-4 ft-lbs. so you get the pan on and tight-ish super fast.
Yeah, that was my paranoia. I wanted to be sure the sealer dried before any oil mixed in. I used Dreibond 1209 and just wanted to be sure I got a solid, uncompromised seal.

Bottom line is there is not a right or wrong, everyone has their own method. I wanted to be sure I would not have to do this twice and gave me some time to clean her up under there.

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  #87  
Old 01-06-2022, 10:15 PM
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  #88  
Old 01-16-2022, 06:04 PM
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I'm lucky enough to have several junkyards close to my house, and they all have E53s!

Grabbed some OEM tail lights, HVAC controls with all the buttons intact, and an LCI Sport package heated wheel.

A 4.4 just got put in the yard the day I got there, Pastel green interior! Also has the navigation unit. I was going to take it, but it looks like the retrofit process is more than I want to do. I might go grab it just to have it around or to sell.

UGH and now the forum says my file sizes are too big for the pictures. First it was the sizing and now its the file size lol
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  #89  
Old 01-16-2022, 06:11 PM
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That's why three pros use tapatalk. Auto picture sizing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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  #90  
Old 01-16-2022, 06:18 PM
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That's why three pros use tapatalk. Auto picture sizing!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Good call! Here’s those pictures




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