Trick to changing the front cv axles

[andrewwynn]

I made a tool for cleaning the hub out of an old axle end. I run it though with some steel wool until I can put it in and out by hand with no hammer.

Out of about 10-12 hub/axle R&R I've only had two I needed >15T to remove but I've had 2-3 where they didn't pop right out and would not have gone back together without the cleaning treatment mentioned.

[zener]

Did not have any issues while replacing them. Just did it again on left side as I got new axle for warranty. They pop out easily and when't back in easily.


First time I replaced both on mine, it took me 45minutes.

[Henn28]

Cold irony this thread. After re-installing my axles now the left front wheel binds after about 30 degrees of spinning, and the steering wheel will only turn roughly 30 deg in either direction without binding (car is back up on jacks). I think I must have blow-up my outer left axle joint somehow installing it. I'm praying it isn't the diff, but logically it seems that it must be the axle.

The right wheel spins freely. Ironically that axle was the bigger pain to install. Great.

[TriX5]

When I had the engine out I needed to remove the axle stubs to refresh the diff seals. I used a large exhaust clamp on one side and used a slide hammer with a hook to get the axle stub out of the diff. Couldn't get the other side to budge with this method.

But then figured out that a longish 1/2" driver could touch the end of the axle still in the diff from the opposite end. Used a BFH to drive the remaining axle out with just one hit which was surprisingly easy. NOTE: There is a piece in there that should not be hammered on. Make sure the driver is touching the axle stub and nothing else before hitting it with the BFH.

It does make sense to rotate the axle in between tries to get the C-clip to wiggle about. Nevertheless, last time I changed my outer boots, I didn't even try to get the CV joints off, just pulled the tripods out of the inner axle stub and replaced the boots over the inner end. There is plenty of space to re-apply the clamps. Very satisfying if somewhat messy job.

Like Andrew said, thoroughly cleaning up the splines is an absolute necessity! I douse the hub splines and axle splines with engine oil. One or two hits with a 2x4 and a BFH gets the axle in to the hub far enough. The first time I did the boot replacement, I ground down an axle old nut so that it can be put on reversed, about 3/8" before the axle is fully thru, this also helps.

[andrewwynn]

Great tip through the diff.


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[Henn28]

Originally Posted by Henn28

Cold irony this thread. After re-installing my axles now the left front wheel binds after about 30 degrees of spinning, and the steering wheel will only turn roughly 30 deg in either direction without binding (car is back up on jacks). I think I must have blow-up my outer left axle joint somehow installing it. I'm praying it isn't the diff, but logically it seems that it must be the axle.

The right wheel spins freely. Ironically that axle was the bigger pain to install. Great.

Today will definitely go into my lessons learned file. After troubleshooting for an hour why the wheels would bind every 30 or 40 degrees when spun, I decided that I had screwed up the axle joint(s) by pounding them onto the hubs. Off came the left hub and axle, then the boots only to find both joints in great shape. Then it occurred to me that perhaps the joints hang up when the suspension is fully extended due to the car being in the air. A jack under the other hub seems to confirm this. Great.

Bit the bullet and bought a new GKN left axle as the boots are in bad shape and the threads for the big nut have become a challenge.

Great way to spend a day. Pulling a perfectly good axle off. Lessons learned.

[andrewwynn]

That's amazing. I've never noticed the problem with both fronts floating. Good you shared other people will see this and save a day due to your efforts and with thank you.