Unplanned maintenance

[andrewwynn]

Most people will find the draw within a few days of trying.

Pulling Banks of fuses is a quick way to find which group is the culprit.

[X5chemist]

Fuse #72? It’s not on my troubleshooting list. I did try 75. 74 is pulled. The motion sensor is unplugged. The FSR was replaced. Will 72 affect radio operation? If not, I’ll pull it tomorrow. While testing before 16 min expired, it did have a voltage drop there. After 16 min, it went to 0 drop. However, my two current voltmeters don’t have accurate range to low milliamperes. The list above is where I found voltage on fuses after 16 min.
The Foxwell does command sleep. After 1 second, it wakes up. The P light is not working now. It did before when it’s awake. I know it’s a wake by the green left window switch button. When sleep command is activated, the switch light turns off. After a second, it turns back on.

[andrewwynn]

So you need to unplug a fuse or four at a time and commamd sleep until you find a batch or a fuse where it stays sleeping.


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[Overboost]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

Fuse #72? It’s not on my troubleshooting list. I did try 75. 74 is pulled. The motion sensor is unplugged. The FSR was replaced. Will 72 affect radio operation? If not, I’ll pull it tomorrow. While testing before 16 min expired, it did have a voltage drop there. After 16 min, it went to 0 drop. However, my two current voltmeters don’t have accurate range to low milliamperes. The list above is where I found voltage on fuses after 16 min.
The Foxwell does command sleep. After 1 second, it wakes up. The P light is not working now. It did before when it’s awake. I know it’s a wake by the green left window switch button. When sleep command is activated, the switch light turns off. After a second, it turns back on.

Sorry, typo. Fuse 74 is the fuse for the TCU. Look at your aux fan next
.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Be aware of "fake" or not up to spec Iridium plugs. +1 on the thermostat, nothing wrong the original temp. I would go with the Bosch coils but probably not a big difference.

+1 on beware of bogus NGK Iridium plugs. Don't by them on line. I bought a set on Amazon. The electrodes melted down in about three months. Clearly not iridium plugs.

[crystalworks]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

If you can spare time, I'll meet you half way or drive it to San Antonio. BBQ and BEvERageS are always a treat. I'm making a wish list too. Like coding the temp gauge to read lower. Turn on the auxiliary fan accordingly. Plus code stuff others have done here. The no sleep is really the only problem keeping me from making it a long trip driver. It needs mechanical attention. I have nice pile of parts now. Until I fix the no sleep issue, I'm holding off on the parts.

Not a bad cost on that scan/diag.

I'll see when I can slide away on a weekend. I have a buddy in Austin I need to meet up with that the wife has been expecting. Jan. is pretty full as we had/have 4 birthdays, 4 dr. appts, and the kiddos are getting their second jabs. Fun month. I'll shoot you a PM if I can get a kitchen pass.

Never done any hex coding (think that's necessary for the temp gauge), so make sure you have your notes on that if you want to give it a go. I have the full BMW suite running (minus ISTA-P) so troubleshooting/scanning should be no issue.

[andrewwynn]

[mention]Overboost [/mention] has the step by step to make the temp dial functional.

[X5chemist]

The auxiliary fan has been replaced. It stopped working shortly after I bought it. A new brushless fan works great. Spins crazy fast. Takes about 10-15 seconds for it to wind down. Hopefully the scan will give good info. Maybe even something to code out. I’ll post back here with a report.

[X5chemist]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

+1 on beware of bogus NGK Iridium plugs. Don't by them on line. I bought a set on Amazon. The electrodes melted down in about three months. Clearly not iridium plugs.

Yup, plugs is an item I don't buy on Amazon. I've seen too many fakes. The easy ones to spot are Motorcraft. A friend had a 3.5 twin turbo F150 4X4. Ran great for about 2 months. I get the call. My first question, where were the plugs purchased, Amazon! Told him to get me Motorcraft from a dealer and I'll pull the old ones out and install them. Ran great afterwards. If I can't find my RockAuto ordered ones, I'll buy a new set at Summit Racing, Arlington.

[X5chemist]

Shorts to parkas to light jacket weather all within 5 days.
Today, I helped a friend check his wife's SUV brakes. The brakes were good. A little grease and cleaning stopped squeaks. I bought new coil packs at Summit Racing, Arlington. $140 NGK 6 pack over a single $100.18 single Bosch at a shop! No parts stores had a single coil. Using my friend's garage, new plugs and coils went on in about 20 minutes. Only two were tight, all others were kind of loose. #6 looked the worst. The prongs had gunk all over them. #1 was next. The misfire #3 had oil residue. Time for a valve cover gasket and gourmet. The #3 and #5 had different coil packs. The #3 had a replacement Bosch coil. #5 had a NGK coil. The #5 coil part number matches the new set. So three different aged coils. The plugs are 1-6 left to right. The #5 plug was not burned through like the others. It bucked a little at startup then smoothed out. Drove home 20 miles and it ran great. The in gear idle shake is gone! I assume #3 was misfiring enough to cause the shake but not set a code. Well, only once. I'll drive it the next few days and check operation. I wanted to have them installed before shop scanning on Thursday. Hopefully the scan will show what's keeping it awake. Once I know, I'll fix it. Even if I have install an accessory kill switch.

The cap oil sludge is back. It had gone away until now. I guess the cold weather is causing it. Plus the thermostat is stuck open. After the scan on Thursday, the water pump will be replaced.