(Resolved) No sleep amp draw tests: F11/F60

[X5chemist]

Finally made progress on no sleep mode. F11 - Immobilizer and F60 - GMIII have amp draws.
F11 - starts near 850 milliamps then drops to 750 milliamps beyond 16 minutes
F60 - starts and stays near 450 milliamps.
Together they pull the battery down fast. F60 was blown for a while until I found it. The rear doors, hatch, and tailgate didn't work. All the doors lock now work with FOB and console switch.

The GMIII was repaired. I may send it back to double check something has not been damaged while searching for all the trouble.

Progress so far:
F74 removed
FSR replaced
GMIII refurbished
Door modules unplugged and tested for sleep mode. No change. Tried a replacement too.
Key electrical cylinder replaced
All other fuses have been tested for amp draws too. Shops says the spec is 16-18 milliamps.

Currently not working: all interior lights don't work. Does this point to a GMIII module fault?

Next: look at everything on those two circuits.
Where should I start? Knowing is half the problem. Finding the solution will be a long process.

What should I look at first?

(Resolved)
A GMIII module installation and coding fixed all the remaining small issues. Fixed with an ebay used module: interior lights, windshield washer pump, BC button functions, no more F60 battery drain, and it goes to sleep after 16 minutes. F60 no longer has amp draw. F60 feeds, rear door locks, liftgate, and lower tailgate.

The used GMIII fixed everything so sleeping amps are factory specs, 18 mA!!
Eventually, I'll clone the used GMIII module. Having a replacement for testing or use, will save a lot of troubleshooting time.

[crystalworks]

Good progress...

chasing draws sucks...

All I can offer is encouragement and consolation. Good luck. Anyway to get a replacement GMIII on the cheap from Ebay for testing purposes? There are a few late model E53's at our local PnP.

[X5chemist]

crystalworks,
An ebay module is available. I ordered one off eBay. Ordered an '06 to be as close as possible to mine. Want to try coding it? I plugged it in once. It set off the alarm.


Speaking of operations. Does the rear hatch always pull down? I notice mine does not always pulls when closing it. I can close it solid. No messages appear when closed. If its supposed to pull it down tight every time, the latch may be the problem.

The shop is calling back on Monday. They are also asking scanner manufactures for help. Apparently, their scanner cannot pin point any problems. Plus they are not familiar with the model sleep mode. They are learning too.

[crystalworks]

First, on your rear hatch door. No, it does not always pull down every time. I find the first time I use the hatch after a battery disconnect I have to close it fully manually. Every subsequent time afterwards, it will do the soft close. I noticed this after installing my battery disconnect switch and using it frequently while working on my stereo.

I can certainly give it an attempt, coding the GMIII (programming rather) to your VIN. I think you have to use one of the WinKFP or PA Soft. Neither of which do I have experience... but they are in my software suite. Waiting to finish the family's covid quarantine before being able to get over to Austin. I have to see a couple buddies over there too. Can make a long day of it.

Pending kitchen pass from the wife of course.

[X5chemist]

Stay safe. No rush on my part. I still need to get it back this week. Plus, the shop is waiting for information. I'm not sure who they are asking for information. I left a folder when I dropped it off Thursday. In the folder were spreadsheet print outs. Info included all the electrical parts I have replaced. All the stuff I have checked. Plus a bonus '99 BMW manual I found on how to troubleshoot sleep mode. I was not 3 miles away when the shop called. The tech was asking for a full hour of diagnostic scanning. He wanted to read through all the information and research some info. I knew it was going to be a task for them. The shop called Thursday afternoon before closing. Scanning didn't provide any information. They asked if an auxiliary jack was installed for use. I said no. None that I have found. I use a Bluetooth adapter for phone use. It's removed every time it's not in use. They asked about another option I can't remember right now. It was also not installed.

The shop asked for 2 full hours of electrical diagnostics. The two hours included a full amp diagnosis on every circuit! I said okay since every circuit would be tested. I waited all day Friday. Closing time is 5:00 PM. At 5:15, I get a call. F11 and F60 are the amp problem. Well above specs. Plus it took them 5 hours to go through all the fuses and circuits! The 5 hours were not continuous. It was hooking up equipment and walking away waiting for sleep mode. Still charged only 2 hours. So far, I'm in 3 hours of shop time. The '99 manual on the last line has a phone number. It specifically states if sleep mode scanning does not provide information or a solution to call BMW!

While watching college basketball, I break out the Bentley manual. The security section has a lot of info. The DWA LED section has interesting information. The "Armed with tailgate or door not fully closed" LED signal is interesting. The signal "Rapid flash for 10 seconds, then continual slow flash. Interior motion sensor not activated". I've been pushing the lock button twice to disable the interior sensor incase the sensor is causing no sleep mode. Until recently, I didn't notice the LED clown nose started to flash rapidly upon FOB locking. The tailgate opens normally. It has to be closed before the hatch. I wonder if BMW left out a message to let a driver know it's open or faulty? I'll have to look inside after arming if an instrument cluster message appears. Has anyone noticed this "flashing mode" on their X5?

The shop is trying to provide a solution. I'm sure they wouldn't like for me to take it back without a solution. Knowing the two fuse circuits which are a problem has saved me hours and days of testing. I can take from here with some help and time.

[X5chemist]

Final numbers.
Fuse 11 - 500 mA
Fuse 60 - 200 mA
Together plus everything else = 850 mA drawn
Both fuses removed - 11 mA.
BMW info states 18 mA is spec.
The shop recommended replacing both immobilizer and GMIII module. $2k. OUCH. If an amp draw is beyond the modules, more testing would be required.
The GMIII module has a lifetime repair warranty. I may send back for a check. The immobilizer can be bypassed. The bypass is common according to a shop guy and searches. Has anyone bypassed theirs? I'm going to pull it and open it up. If the circuit board is fried, bypass it permanently or replace and code. The bypass is starter function. Bentley says if the starter engages the following EWS inputs are working normally:
ignition key
code function
transmission range switch
engine speed sensor
Since the starter trigger goes through the EWS module, would it be reasonable to suspect it could be an amp draw?

What do our electrical gurus think I should do next? Would a wire by wire check on modules be helpful? I would need to acquire a low amp clam meter.

[X5chemist]

Update: every option on a Foxwell was checked today. I didn't know it had hidden menus and data display. Three switches indicated they are pressed when they are not. So I can assume those switches have shorts. Since the upper rear boot shows an error, it's probably why F60 has an amp draw.
1. A "memory set button" has data as "pressed'.
2. An upper boot button has data reporting as "pressed". Probably the exterior button. The screen pic has sun glare so I can't ID the complete error. I'll scan for it again.
3. A "steering column stalk for CBC" has data as "pressed". Is this the left stalk button? It may explain why the instrument cluster does not display or cycle through data.

Has anyone seen these errors? The next step, unplug the listed parts and see if it goes to sleep and stops F60 pulling amps.

Out of curiosity, I activated the headlight washer motor. The rear left window rolled down!

[X5chemist]

Update to post from another thread regarding amps and no sleep mode:

With F11 and F60 out. It's asleep with 11 mA! Spec is 18 mA.
F11 = 500 mA
F60 = 200 mA
The option to disable the EWS is appealing. Sending the DME for programming is a one time cost. $500
My Foxwell 520 Pro scans the EWS. It finds no faults. I plan to disconnect it and watch the amp draw. The EWS is a starter crank requirement. The starter wiring there can be bypassed by connecting two wires with a fuse. However, the DME still needs EWS input. Another EWS wire goes to the transmission position indicator. I assume it leads to the neutral safety switch. The P light is not on but it's awake. If I wiggle the shifter, the light sometimes comes on. It's why I suspect the switch.

Using activation menus for switches, three are scanned as being pressed. The BC stalk, memory button, and not so clear hatch button. The BC left button does not work anymore. It stopped working one day. The radio button does work. Plus it will cycle information. The seat memory options I think do work. However, I'm not sure if all the sequences work with key on/off. The memory button does light up with a key inserted.
When the F60 is blown, the rear hatch does not open. I assume the outside button may water damage. Plus the button plastic cover was in bad shape. One light cover was missing too. They have been replaced. I need to unplug the hatch light/button switch. If the input/readings go to "not pressed", it should be bad. However, it does work normally with manual operation or FOB.

Replacement test switches are cheap on ebay. The memory and BC stock switch are here. I'll test them next week.

[X5chemist]

Update: it's done. Fuse 11 amp draw is gone. I didn't have time to verify. A tester will need to be connected to test amp draw. Or checked for voltage drop. I didn't. have time. It worked because with F60 removed and 2 days without a trickle charge, the battery read 12.4 volts. It cranked right up. F60 will be my next task to fix. It may be a while since the X5 is in temporary storage for updates. Axles, oil pan, motor mounts, and a ton of other stuff will go on in about 1-2 months.

For learning and knowledge, each wire was tested with a clamp meter able to read down to 1 mA. Only two wires had readings. I can't remember reading numbers. We did write the down amp results before swapping the DME. One is a 12V battery source. The other wire needs identification using a wiring pinout. I have it somewhere. The two wires highlighted are the two amp measured wires. All others were 0 or 1 mA. I took a reading of 1 mA as zero since it's within tolerance error readings. After the DME swap, it started right up!

[X5chemist]

Update: It's been a week since the X5 was driven. Using the Bluetooth cigarette light port adapter, the battery voltage read 12.5! The port is probably not very accurate but close enough. So an EWS delete F11/F60 pulled have put it to sleep. The shop diagnosis of 11 mA must be true. The alarm is on. Motion detection is also disabled. Next: a two week test after running it a bit to fully charge the battery. Once I get it back, troubleshooting F60 will be priority. Heck, I may even put in a cut off switch just to keep it simple. :