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  #11  
Old 03-16-2022, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
Though I'm new to the BMW world, I have been working on cars & trucks for 57 years, learning as I went. I fix what I can with whatever I can, using whatever parts I can. Depending on the importance of the parts involved, the availability of those parts, and the cost/investment involved (in money, in my time, in difficulty to replace), I have tried components of all sorts , quality, and price, over those years.

I've got 90+% of my experience working on domestic vehicles, and the rest on Euro & Asian cars, so my components have come from all over. While I used to use only American tools & parts, now I use mostly foreign-made stuff, generally due to price & comparative value to me. And then, does anyone still know for sure the provenance of their tools & parts nowadays, anyway?

Right now, only some of my older tools are USA-made (some from the '70's), while the newer tools are made offshore (not sure about my Milwaukee tools). My tires (on four cars & trucks, and two trailers) are a mix of 3 US & 2 Japanese brands (only two were not made in China, but even if they were, they're not of low Chinesium quality). And as for the cars, they all have mixed heritage components, as manufactured.

These days, I try to get known/trusted brands of components (especially critical or hard-to-replace), if those brands have been proven reliable to me, in the past. I hope that the newer parts, even if made in China, will be made to a certain level of quality, that the old tried & true mfg. used to make.

Electronic components are the newest product category to add to the mix; the switch to offshore manufacturing plants by corporations world-wide has made buying reliable parts a crapshoot. I still mostly buy AC-Delco, Delphi, Bosch, and NGK electric and electronic parts, even though I've had some failures with them, but never buy new-to-me brands, unless I research them online first. Parts (especially electronic) for the X5 are going to be chosen by three criteria:
  • 1) how critical is that part vs. price,
  • 2) how hard to diagnose/replace the part, re:upcoming failure (if ever, in the future) vs. price, and
  • 3) relative value of a "better" part (OE, OEM, BMW-branded) vs. a lower-cost, but seemingly made to a comparable standard by another manufacturer (preferably European or Japanese, or by one of my trusted brands).

I recently replaced a camshaft position sensor (exhaust) with a VEMO part (sub-division of Vaico, a European mfg. company). It's even stamped with GERMANY on it. Since it's easy to quickly replace, I figured I'd try a new supplier, just to find out if their quality is up to snuff. I can get a replacement overnight, if I need one, and since I always have a scantool hooked up, I should get a warning of imminent failure, beforehand. Of course, if the component is really hard to access/replace, if partial failure will instantly destroy the X5, or if no reasonable alternative to the "best" is available, then I'll defer to BMW or comparable-quality parts, always.
My experience over the years is that you just don't ever screw around on crank sensors. It's never worth it.

I would almost always prefer to pick up a used OE sensor than a new aftermarket one in that application if budget is critical.
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2022, 01:27 PM
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That is an important distinction.

I would use OE part for any mission critical engine sensor.

My definition for OEM part is apparently FCP definition of OE part.

My Spidey senses said Delphi didn't sound like they would be original supplier for engine sensor.
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2022, 05:50 AM
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Repleaced the crank sensor with a OE part and all is good now. what a pain. but its running well
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  #14  
Old 04-27-2022, 08:16 AM
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I have a Delphi crank sensor on hand for spare, it was the most expensive sensor from RockAuto and "looks" to be of very good quality but does not have the o-ring included. Are you sure you had the sensor installed correctly with the o-ring lubed and sensor properly seated, the mounting area clean and didn't try to pull it in with the mounting bolt and maybe crack it?
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  #15  
Old 04-27-2022, 08:19 AM
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I read in the TIS that shims may be needed to get the depth correct and I suspect that might be related to the trouble. Or could have been a fluke DOA. That said I only use (now established) OE parts for internal engine spinny sensors.
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  #16  
Old 04-27-2022, 08:39 AM
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If the TIS mentions shims then there must be a tolerance problem with OE parts (much like vanos rattle for eg.) "Sometimes" or at least "back in the day" some aftermarket parts companies ("Standard Motor Products, especially their "Blue Streak" line for eg.) had improved designs for OE problem parts. The OEM might even supply an improved part to the dealer but then it would usually be somehow noted or at least have a different part number.
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  #17  
Old 04-27-2022, 09:08 AM
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Crank Sensor relearn?

I think the tolerance is in the reluctor wheel or tone ring. I think the instruction said to look for spacers and move to the new sensor. I see occasionally somebody doesn't seat sensor all the way in: CPS or CPK and have bad results until resolved.
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Last edited by andrewwynn; 04-27-2022 at 10:12 AM.
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  #18  
Old 04-27-2022, 01:33 PM
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Heed the words of "nick325xit 5spd" said, he is correct in all he has said here

I would (and have) used good used parts instead of aftermarket. If I buy new electrical sensors I try to buy Genuine, otherwise OE. Never "OEM" when talking about critical sensors


This is also a good time to have INPA setup... I can't imagine maintaining one of these older BMW's without a working version of INPA. You can start the car and see if the crank signal is working, if not, you can check for shadow codes and/or see what the other sensors are doing or where else the fault lies.
Most people have an old laptop laying around somewhere or can obtain one cheap. My INPA has been runing flawlessly on a "Asus EEE" laptop... available all day for under $100. Here for example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15483074463...UAAOSwX8lh~1G3
The INPA cables are ~$20 and the software is free
If you plan on owning the car a long time, getting INPA working will more than pay for itself as you can correctly diagnose things the first time around instead of shooting the "parts shotgun" at the car and hoping you get the right part replaced
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  #19  
Old 04-28-2022, 05:50 AM
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i have a laptop with inpa on it but i can never get it to talk with the car
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  #20  
Old 04-28-2022, 01:51 PM
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That is likely an issue with your cable or the settings on your laptop. There is a lot of information on this online - if the cable is ok the problem usually has to do with the COM port settings
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