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  #11  
Old 11-29-2022, 07:07 PM
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sounds like a bad remote. Have you tried testing it with a tester?

https://www.amazon.com/WOYO-Control-.../dp/B01LQ4I9LU

sent it to scott johnson to be repaired if it is faulty
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2022, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
The "pairing" procedures you typed are both incorrect. That is not the way to reinitialize the remote keys to the GM. See instructions below.


The interior Central Lock button communicates directly to the GM by way of the communication bus...just like manually using the key blade in the door's exterior lock cylinder. Using the remote key's buttons...the data travels over an RF (radio frequency) to the aerial embedded in the rear window...then to a receiver/amp in the C pillar...then over the car's BUS system to the GM. That's why the central locking button can work but the remotes fail to lock/unlock the car. Their data takes different pathways to the GM.

Thank you Qsilver7 For the response, does that mean my GM module is healthy ? Since the central lock button works fine ?

btw the instruction you sent about re-pairing the key is same as what I did (except I did a bit additional) I turned the key in position 1 a few times and then off.

I am gonna try again this time I am gonna ensure all the doors are “Unlocked” first.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2022, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killcrap View Post
sounds like a bad remote. Have you tried testing it with a tester?

https://www.amazon.com/WOYO-Control-.../dp/B01LQ4I9LU

sent it to scott johnson to be repaired if it is faulty
How can I use this product ? And once I buy it how do I know if my key is defective
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  #14  
Old 12-18-2022, 05:51 PM
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Update: i unpluged the battery for a few minutes . But that didn’t change anything.

Could this be a gm module issue?
If yes what are symptoms or a gm issue
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2022, 01:11 AM
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Debugging would be much easier if you had more than one key. I know the new BMW diamond keys cost $$ but ...

could you borrow a diamond key from someone and try to program it? If you were out here in CA, I'd gladly let you borrow one of mine.

Have you considered buying a new (non-BMW) or used (genuine BMW) key fob on eBay? You are not likely to get the EWS (immobilizer) portion to work, but the keyless entry should be programmable. For around $15 you can get a used genuine BMW key that should be programmable. If you find that can be programmed, you will have found that your key fob has a problem. If you find the eBay key cannot be programmed for keyless entry, you will need to decide whether the problem is with that eBay key or your car. Not a perfect test, but might be helpful.

Having bought 3x used genuine diamond keys off eBay when I first got my E53, and later done some surgery on them to replace batteries in two of them (postings on here if you search on my username), I'll say that they are amazingly well built. Looked like new when opened up. The batteries should last up to 20 years, so yours at 6 should be fine, but maybe it is not being charged. There is a coil surrounding the ignition cylinder which provides an RF field to charge the key's battery. Maybe something is wrong there ???

A problem I once had on my car (2001 3.0i) was an electrical problem with a replacement driver's door lock actuator. Something with that component was causing (I think, whatever I wrote back in the day is accurate, this is from memory) the keyless entry to not work at all; the central locking button would work on the front doors and kind of work on the rear doors, as if they were weak, with failing actuators. I even used my Foxwell to actuate all the door lock actuators repeatedly for testing, and the rears were weak and worked about half the time. Then when I swapped back in my original driver's DLA (which was fine except that the cable bracket was cracked - but had no electrical problems), everything worked perfectly, including those rear door lock actuators.

My basic shock and conclusion was that the whole system is surprisingly fragile with a fault in one place causing symptoms in other parts. Everything is perfectly solid since I fixed that cable bracket and put the original DLA back in - has been for years now.

Luckily when I had that problem, I had an original diamond key and 3x programmed eBay diamond keys (with blades cut off to make them fobs) to confirm it was not a key problem.

So for you - I'd be cautious about drawing any firm conclusions about the health of the central locking system unless everything works perfectly.
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Last edited by oldskewel; 12-19-2022 at 01:25 AM.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2022, 06:02 PM
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Whistle

Thank u for the response, where is dla and coil? Is it in steering wheel? Did u have to open it up

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldskewel View Post
Debugging would be much easier if you had more than one key. I know the new BMW diamond keys cost $$ but ...

could you borrow a diamond key from someone and try to program it? If you were out here in CA, I'd gladly let you borrow one of mine.

Have you considered buying a new (non-BMW) or used (genuine BMW) key fob on eBay? You are not likely to get the EWS (immobilizer) portion to work, but the keyless entry should be programmable. For around $15 you can get a used genuine BMW key that should be programmable. If you find that can be programmed, you will have found that your key fob has a problem. If you find the eBay key cannot be programmed for keyless entry, you will need to decide whether the problem is with that eBay key or your car. Not a perfect test, but might be helpful.

Having bought 3x used genuine diamond keys off eBay when I first got my E53, and later done some surgery on them to replace batteries in two of them (postings on here if you search on my username), I'll say that they are amazingly well built. Looked like new when opened up. The batteries should last up to 20 years, so yours at 6 should be fine, but maybe it is not being charged. There is a coil surrounding the ignition cylinder which provides an RF field to charge the key's battery. Maybe something is wrong there ???

A problem I once had on my car (2001 3.0i) was an electrical problem with a replacement driver's door lock actuator. Something with that component was causing (I think, whatever I wrote back in the day is accurate, this is from memory) the keyless entry to not work at all; the central locking button would work on the front doors and kind of work on the rear doors, as if they were weak, with failing actuators. I even used my Foxwell to actuate all the door lock actuators repeatedly for testing, and the rears were weak and worked about half the time. Then when I swapped back in my original driver's DLA (which was fine except that the cable bracket was cracked - but had no electrical problems), everything worked perfectly, including those rear door lock actuators.

My basic shock and conclusion was that the whole system is surprisingly fragile with a fault in one place causing symptoms in other parts. Everything is perfectly solid since I fixed that cable bracket and put the original DLA back in - has been for years now.

Luckily when I had that problem, I had an original diamond key and 3x programmed eBay diamond keys (with blades cut off to make them fobs) to confirm it was not a key problem.

So for you - I'd be cautious about drawing any firm conclusions about the health of the central locking system unless everything works perfectly.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2022, 07:58 PM
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did you purchase the remote frequency tester?
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  #18  
Old 12-24-2022, 12:46 AM
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My remote will lock all the doors, but only unlocks the front ones. Same with central lock button, I can hear the rear doors clicking, but not apparently the actuators aren't strong enough to unlock.
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  #19  
Old 12-24-2022, 07:18 AM
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OP, you might possibly have the same issue as I did on my 03 4.6is (same symptoms) and I've also spend a lot of time trying to solve the problem which is quite rare it seems:

In my case it was broken wire in the upper trunk lid in the section where there is rubber boot protecting bunch of wires and over time by opening / closing the lid, mine broke.
I repaired the wire and voila, everything was fine.
I think I posted about this few years back and will try to find the post with more info.
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  #20  
Old 12-24-2022, 07:23 AM
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Here you go, post #36:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-issue)/page2
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