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#51
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For ppl without an angle grinder, I have an untested idea... I am coming up with some random numbers here. Since it requires let's say 30K lbs of force to remove the OUTER race from the spindle as @andrewwynn said above, you may destroy the bolt that comes with the bearing tool set. So, if you heat the housing only on the outside with propane torch (or a heat gun) as shown for a few minutes, it will expand the housing. Sure the OUTER race will be heated too, but to a much lesser extent. So the differential expansion (housing hotter than OUTER race) will reduce the force required to push it out. Maybe you only need a force of some 10K lbs and therefore not destroying the bolt? Just a guess... ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 11-09-2025 at 04:54 PM. |
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#52
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No guess needed. That's how i was able to my first two or three bearings with 3/4 push bolt.
Tightened until just before stripping the bolt then heated the knuckle until it released with a literal bang. That is a way to not break the bolt. Look up the torque spec for the bolt and tighten with a torque wrench then heat the knuckle until it "bangs" and move back and forth between torque and heat. –awr– Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#53
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Quote:
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E39 530dA -02 M-Sport Messing metallic E53 X5 3.0dA -06 Sport Stratus grey E70 X5 40d -12 M-Sport Space grey |
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#54
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I've not done this but I'm not sure it would work as removing the hub with a slide hammer will only remove the outer ball race (along with the hub). The inner ball race would still be in place and I'm not sure it can be "bashed" out the back to give access to the full outer race. Is there enough clearance on the inside of the knuckle to do this?
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#55
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Whether it is Honda or BMW etc., I find the video below (youTube Channel Repair Geek) so good and so thorough. Same bearing tool kit as mentioned previously...
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 11-09-2025 at 06:43 PM. |
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#56
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@wpoll et al,
- I sketched a generic photo so you can see OUTER vs INNER race terminology. - When REMOVING hub/bearing (after circlip is removed), you basically push the Hub out, the part called "1b" comes out with the Hub. - The part "1a" is where you apply the force to push the OUTER race out. - During installation: install the new bearing using old bearing but push ONLY on the OUTER race. - Then use appropriate adapters to install the Hub into the INNER race, i.e., force should be applied only to the INNER race during this step bc if ppl use a hammer to pound on the Hub at this stage, the force generated by the hammer goes like this: Hub ---> Inner Race ---> Bearing Balls ---> OUTER race: a big no-no. ---
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT Last edited by cn90; 11-09-2025 at 09:55 PM. |
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#57
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Most likely the stop edge on the knuncle and the fact that the race has to compress to loosen is determining that cutting is not a viable option as the risk to damage the knuckle is very high closing the point where the cutting would have any usable effect.
So a press (or suitable) and possibly heat on the knuckle it is.
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E39 530dA -02 M-Sport Messing metallic E53 X5 3.0dA -06 Sport Stratus grey E70 X5 40d -12 M-Sport Space grey |
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#58
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Quote:
The knuckle opening on the inboard side is much smaller than the OD of the bearing. No chance to cut any significant amount into the bearing. –awr– Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#59
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That's a perfect diagram.
What i saw when asking about cutting the race was the "outer half of the inner race" i knew which one but wasn't paying attention to the precision of the nomenclature. –awr– Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#60
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I stand corrected on inner vs. outer.
Yeah not possible to cut the outer race. It is possible to use heat to expand the knuckle to help push out the bearing though and I have done with 3/4 bolt but I've also destroyed three before upgrading to 1" bolt. If you use IR thermometer i think I've seen people use 500F as a max but of course remove the abs sensor first and monitor any ball joints with rubber or grease keep those under 180 or so. When i did my first or second i preloaded the tension on the press as much as i estimated wouldn't strip the bolt and then i heated up to about 250F and it started moving with a i bang! Sounded like something broke. Knowing what i know now I'd have kept heating. That said with 7/8 or 1" bolt use grease and a oilite Bronze thrust bushing and you don't need heat. Near southeast wi or between here and east Pennsylvania could likely stop and lend a hand –awr– Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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