E53 on board computer problems

[wpoll]

While I'm aware of the hidden menu (use it a lot) and the reset function (test 21), I've never seen or heard mention of using the reset to clear an immobiliser code situation - brilliant if it works!!

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by wpoll

While I'm aware of the hidden menu (use it a lot) and the reset function (test 21), I've never seen or heard mention of using the reset to clear an immobiliser code situation - brilliant if it works!!

I don't know if the reset works in these code problems but it has resolved many other cases if cluster is doing strange things it's not supposed to do.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

I don't know if the reset works in these code problems but it has resolved many other cases if cluster is doing strange things it's not supposed to do.

Absolutely worth a crack!

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Absolutely worth a crack!

I think it should work as the code it's asking for is the last 5 digits anyway.

Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by EODguy

I think it should work as the code it's asking for is the last 5 digits anyway.

This immobiliser CODE is different thing compared to cluster hidden menu and its password. That CODE can be set if the owner so chooses but in these cases the cluster has activated the function on its own.

[Tactician]

I received the MID unit today from Ireland, plugged it in and saw the set up screen for time and date etc.
pressed the code button and entered '0000' as the battery had been replaced.

she roared to life and all seems good with the world again.

can't thank you all enough for the speedy responses and advice.
the MID unit will stay in the car incase this happens again because we still do not understand why the code requirement came up in the first place.
When I purchased the battery 2 years previously the guys fitting it told me that this model does not require inputting the code after battery swap.

time will tell if it happens in the future.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Tactician

I received the MID unit today from Ireland, plugged it in and saw the set up screen for time and date etc.
pressed the code button and entered '0000' as the battery had been replaced.

she roared to life and all seems good with the world again.

can't thank you all enough for the speedy responses and advice.
the MID unit will stay in the car incase this happens again because we still do not understand why the code requirement came up in the first place.
When I purchased the battery 2 years previously the guys fitting it told me that this model does not require inputting the code after battery swap.

time will tell if it happens in the future.

Hooray! Glad it's sorted. This is one reason why aftermarket stereos are not always the best idea...

You can now also set the time and date on your dash!

Re. the battery swap code thing - newer BMW's require a new battery to be "registered" and this is sometimes incorrectly called "coding". It has nothing to do with the issue you have just sorted - a 4-digit immobiliser code.

The X5 E53 does not require a new battery to be registered, but it does seem that pulling the battery with the in the ignition *may* cause the immobiliser code to be set.

[Tactician]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Hooray! Glad it's sorted. This is one reason why aftermarket stereos are not always the best idea...

You can now also set the time and date on your dash!

Re. the battery swap code thing - newer BMW's require a new battery to be "registered" and this is sometimes incorrectly called "coding". It has nothing to do with the issue you have just sorted - a 4-digit immobiliser code.

The X5 E53 does not require a new battery to be registered, but it does seem that pulling the battery with the in the ignition *may* cause the immobiliser code to be set.

We had at no time removed or disconnected the battery but it was being charged in the car at the time of this issue occurring, I had (for the past 7 days) noticed the battery was losing power when starting and had connected my booster pack on three occasions in order to fire up the engine.

after that the engine would spin-up and fire throughout the day (I use my car for my work visiting three care homes) My mechanic was checking my brakes etc. then could not start the car hence the issue.
I still need to figure out what forced a code input to fix this. if I figure this out I will post on here my findings.

Again thank you all for your contributions to the thread.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Tactician

We had at no time removed or disconnected the battery but it was being charged in the car at the time of this issue occurring, I had (for the past 7 days) noticed the battery was losing power when starting and had connected my booster pack on three occasions in order to fire up the engine.

after that the engine would spin-up and fire throughout the day (I use my car for my work visiting three care homes) My mechanic was checking my brakes etc. then could not start the car hence the issue.
I still need to figure out what forced a code input to fix this. if I figure this out I will post on here my findings.

Again thank you all for your contributions to the thread.

Your starter may be old/dirty, causing a higher-than-normal starter current. Common issue with these cars - mine did this at about 250,000kms or so. The high starter current was killing the battery, as it was drawing around 400amps when starting (should be well under 300amps). Removing the starter motor (not easy!), then cleaning and servicing it, sorted the issue. Now it starts VERY quickly...

https://xoutpost.com/1241612-post16918.html