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#1
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idle control valve actuation test failed
Engine runs fine, with only one code (IIRC, it was an "idle something plausibility" code...probably set after I tested the IAV first). I couldn't get the code to clear, but it doesn't even show up on Torque Pro at all. I took out and inspected the IAV ("T-shape idle regulating valve" on RealOem) two years ago, and it was fine (it rattled when shaken...supposedly a valid test), but I had run out of carb cleaner, so it was reinstalled dirty. I'll have to clean it when I take the engine bay apart in a week or so, after I get the smoke tester in, and the rain stays away for a few days. Why did the idle valve actuation test fail, considering there are no apparent engine problems, other than the mystery cause of a constant lean condition, that I've been hunting for two years)? Is the cause of failure most likely mechanical or electrical in nature?
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01 BMW X5 E53,3.0i-5L40E, 7/13/01 topas-blau,Leder-grau,"resto-project car" Here: 14 Lexus ES350,3.5L-U660E 09 HHR Panel,2.2L-4T45E 04 Chevy 2500HD,6.0L-4L80E 98 GMC Sierra 1500,5.7L-4L60E Gone: 66 Chevelle Malibu 2dr ht.,327>441c.i.-TH350>PGlide/transbrake 08 Cobalt Coupe,2.2L-4T45E 69 & 75 C10s,350c.i.-TH350 86 S10,2.8L-700R4 73 Volvo 142,2.0L-MT4 72 & 73 VW SuperBeetles,1.6l-MT4 64 VW,1.2l-MT4 67 Dodge Monaco 500 2dr ht.,383c.i.-A727 56 Chevy 210 4dr,265c.i.-PGlide |
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#2
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Can an electric check be done on it? It should have some resistance. No post that I've read has ever mentioned an electrical test. Now, I'm curious.
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'06 X5 3.0i - bought @143,123 miles (12/26/20) |
#3
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I wouldn't use carb cleaner around anything that might have rubber seals like the throttle body or the IAC valve. Brake clean or MAF/Air intake cleaner. A plausibility code can come up if you ever use the brake and throttle at the same time. I drive with both feet so I almost always have that
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1988 325is (purchased new) sold 2004 X5 3.0 2005 X3 2.5 2008 X5 3.0 (new to me) |
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