2003 4.4i-Doors auto Locking like Crazy!

cfoss · #1 11-21-2023, 02:45 PM

Hi all. I'm working on my duaghter's X5-trying to get it right so she can drive off into the sunset.

It had the dreaded valve seal leaks, so I dropped the cradle and changed them out...fun job.

Now it runs great but it has a very strange quirk...the locks are fighting me!

I open them with the remote, and they lock right back up again...I heard this can be the hood switch, so I pulled the connector...no change.

I bought and installed bmwscan1.4 on my win 10 laptop (Another story..) and I disabled the tilt sensor and the interior motion sensors. No change. BMWscan1.4 seems to indicate a driver side door fault, so I decided to take it apart.

I was taking the door panel off, and with the multifunction driver's door switch disconnected, the problem goes away. AHA!

So I looked up the schematics at BMW WDS online. Seems the switch is not just a switch but a module?? Can anyone confirm?

Now I only have the connector in the photo removed...I think it's called X887, and supplies the power to the switch/module. This prevents the unwanted operation, probably because it's powered down.

Anyway, my question is:

Is there a way to determine whether the module is bad or whether the door switches themselves are malfunctioning?

Also, a possible unrelated issue, the rear hatch top half release is not working (It did as little as 1 month ago). The bottom works fine...Probably unrelated but curious.

Thanks for any info,

Chay

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80stech · #2 11-21-2023, 03:05 PM

It would be good to maybe rule out the remote as well. Do you have another remote to try?

Maybe try reconnecting the door switch (module

) with the remote nowhere near by.

andrewwynn · #3 11-21-2023, 03:09 PM

That door module will get water in when window open. Usually will corrode the pins on the window relay but can affect anything on there. If you are handy with circuit board level soldering you might be able to find: fix otherwise replace it's the go-to on this.

The problem is boneyard used are likely to already have corrosion problems so it's a crap shoot.

That said. A couple people have had the problem just be the connector.

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andrewwynn · #4 11-21-2023, 03:11 PM

The rear hatch release gets water in it and misbehaves. Mine I took the rubber boot off and water trying to get in drained out and I never had a problem after.

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cfoss · #5 11-21-2023, 06:13 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll do some disassembly and check the board. The connectors are in very good condition.

I'm in the process of dismantling the rear hatch window wiper to get the hatch top release out. It looks dry in there but we'll see.

On the enclosed schematic, can anyone confirm the M12 the door itself and the three switches on the right are the hall effect switches?

My daughter only has one key but I'll try the reconnect without it around and see how it goes.

Thanks,

Chay

80stech · #6 11-21-2023, 06:42 PM

I have never had the actuator (M12) apart so I can't confirm that those are Hall switches or not, I would guess not by the way they are shown and there isn't enough wiring there, not impossible though as they could be grounded through the motors.

cfoss · #7 11-23-2023, 02:35 PM

So I took the door module apart. It looks really good. There is an evidence of a tiny bit of corrosion on one of the multilpin connectors. I’ll clean the males on the board and try to clean the connectors and see if it gets any better

I think the issue is in the drivers door lock itself. Something physical in the door lock cylinder. Just a guess.

Chay

80stech · #8 11-23-2023, 04:50 PM

There is a lot that can wrong on that board.
Have you done some probing/testing or what makes you think the problem is in the driver's door ?
Did you get the hatch working?

cfoss · #9 11-23-2023, 05:42 PM

I haven't had much time to work on it...baby steps. I'm helping my son rebuild his Honda B17 Turbo right now, plus work so it's BUSY.

Yes there is a lot to go wrong on that board...could always be a component failure that is not obvious.

I was just checking general condition.

I'm going to pull the door actuator and bench test it and make sure it is working and the position switches are working properly before buying a new driver door module.

The rest of the switches on the module work fine, and the backlighting works fine. Yes I know they are different circuits but it's in generally good shape is all I can say. Pristine really.

I haven't looked at the hatch yet.

Chay

cfoss · #10 11-28-2023, 06:25 PM

Well it seems I fixed the door locking issue.

I took the door actuator out and it was filthy and sticky. I think something was getting stuck halfway and the position switches were causing the system to loose it's mind.

I drilled the first two rivets out on the actuator and removed the top cover. Then I figured out how the ridiculously complicated thing works.

I used brake cleaner, then compressed air and some cloth and cleaned it out as much as possible, then relubed with some spray lithium grease. After reinstalling it, all you have to do is breathe on the interior and exterior handles and the door opens. It's WAY better. My daughter couldn't believe the difference.

And no more 'ghost' lock operations.

Now, on to the rear lid!

Chay

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