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Old 05-22-2024, 03:24 PM
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3.0d, M57 proper coolant bleeding procedure

Hi there guys!

So, on my tractor (M57, 3.0d, 2006, 218ps) I have to change the small coolant hose that goes from EGR thermostat to the main plastic coolant pipe (11537792622).
During that process, I assume, I will lose just a small amount of coolant, but the air will come in, and I will have to conduct the bleeding procedure to get rid of the air pockets. I assume it is possible to do it without flushing all the coolant?

However, since I'm more of an electric guy, I need your help to figure it out how to do it properly. What would be the proper coolant bleeding procedure for the M57 diesel engines?
I was searching the forum and generally online, but I'm stumbling upon various procedures, and mainly videos concerning petrol engines.


Anyway, this is what I found on TIS:

1) Open expansion tank.
2) Start the engine (idle speed) and set the heater to maximum temperature. Set the blower to low setting. This opens the heating valves and sets the auxiliary water pump in operation.
3) Pour coolant into the expansion tank up to max. cold fill level. Allow the engine to run at idle speed until no more coolant needs to be added. (I assume no longer than 5 min?).
4) Rev the engine for a few times (approx. 2500 rpm) to flush the coolant circuit.
5) Switch off the engine, and set the heater to minimum temperature.
6) Wait approx. 3 minutes until the auxiliary water pump in the auxiliary heater ceases to operate.
7) Start the engine again without the heater.
8) Carefully open the expansion tank and top up or draw off coolant at idle speed to max. cold fill level.
9) Close the coolant tank.
10) Take the car for a test drive.

P.S. In steps 5 and 6, I assume that ignition also has to be switched off?
P.P.S. In step 8, why to open the expansion tank if it's already opened?

Does this procedure look okay?

After this, do I need to take the truck for a ride, until it reaches operating temperature (80-87 degrees C), and then to open the top two bleeding screws (one close to the coolant cap, and another on the plastic pipe) until there are no more air bubbles coming out?
If yes, do I do this while the engine is running, or while the engine is switched off?
And, is there proper sequence, in which do I open the bleeding screws?

Or is this complete nonsense?

Thanks in advance.
Cheers!
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