E53 3.0d Gremlins, Crank, No Start!

[getty150]

Wow can't tell you how identical your gremlin is similar to mine I'm wrestling with...My engine petrol tho. Mine too started with a stall out and then a tow to my driveway and there I've been experimenting and researching and replacing for the last month.
I've gone from one click of the ignition to it now starts holds but surges and bucks.
I do have the convenience of a backup car so I'm not pressed.
I'm looking now at maybe a throttle body replacement and or gas pedal replacement.
If you have any questions for me please direct them.
Because my experience this far would be too time consuming if I posted here and now...but I'm happy to share if asked.

[Juut]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

How full is your fuel tank? I think the diesel used the same defective design of transfer pump for the left side tank.

If at ≈ 1/4 tank add some fuel, also does diesel have a low pressure fuel test point under the hood you can test for fuel pressure.

The symptom your described pull two feet forward and it shut off exactly describes the standard symptom of a bad cam shaft sensor. When that's the case it will usually start right up. Crank position sensor is however mission critical and if that goes bad car will not start.

I'd wait to know about the 1/4 tank answer before digging deeper.

The key remote radio is a separate radio from the RFID type of function used for starting the car. A proper scanner will tell you which key number is detected by the car to confirm it's working. Also: codes?

Hey Andrew,



Checked the test 6, Was at 13.4/1.4 - Chucked in 5ltr of fuel, switched ignition on and it shifted some fuel across so thats working. However what isn't occuring is any sound from the fuel tanks main fuel pump. Pulled off the seats and surrounding "black rubber plug" brother pressed down and I switched ignition on and off a few times, Pump never primed, swapped the 2 x relays behind the fuseboard in the glove box around in case of a relay issue and still no joy.



So it's looking like the actual main fuel pump has gone kaput? Is my reasoning sound enough?

[andrewwynn]

The low pressure fuel pump will run six seconds to prime until you start. Key off key on should get you another b six seconds.

Adding fuel will flood over once the well is full. Priming over and over watch the levels of the right side drops from 1.4 especially gets to zero the siphon jet has failed.

The transfer pump uses flow from the main pump to siphon fuel from left to right. It goes in circles when below 1/3 tank because the right side only holds 5L (indicated 1.4, 3.6 left at 0.00 reading)

Turn the key off/on listen for the pump it should run a short time and stop I think it was six seconds in my cases with our two e53.

Unfortunately hidden menu will reset when you key off so it'll be difficult to test live but do key off key on 3-4x them being op test six. If right side dropped the siphon pump is failing.

Did you attempt starting after putting in fuel and seeing level on right tank?

[Juut]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The low pressure fuel pump will run six seconds to prime until you start. Key off key on should get you another b six seconds.

Adding fuel will flood over once the well is full. Priming over and over watch the levels of the right side drops from 1.4 especially gets to zero the siphon jet has failed.

The transfer pump uses flow from the main pump to siphon fuel from left to right. It goes in circles when below 1/3 tank because the right side only holds 5L (indicated 1.4, 3.6 left at 0.00 reading)

Turn the key off/on listen for the pump it should run a short time and stop I think it was six seconds in my cases with our two e53.

Unfortunately hidden menu will reset when you key off so it'll be difficult to test live but do key off key on 3-4x them being op test six. If right side dropped the siphon pump is failing.

Did you attempt starting after putting in fuel and seeing level on right tank?

The lowest it went was 1.4, There was absolutely no sound from the main pump at all when listening and running test 6 a few times showed it stayed the same and did not drop below the 1.4 level. We tried several times to hear the priming doors close and in complete silence and we got zilch!


I should add right side assuming this is number set L/R/Total? Did drop and L rose when turning key, But did not drop below 1.4 is what I meant.




I did attempt to start it however it still would not start, not even a tickle, Fully charge battery now as well so no issues there.

[Juut]

Also just so im not misunderstanding - The main pump is the "only" pump, Just part of it is used to jet the fuel across to the other side? As the other portion doesn't house any pumps I can see I can only assume this is true?


So if the pump has failed then the entire system no longer works ergo, replace the fuel sender unit?


Just remembered there is the pump on the underbody, However I can only assume that as there is no sound coming from the main pump then the low pressure pump isn't the cause as thats only going to get fuel if the main pump supplies it?

[wpoll]

You'll likely need to diagnose the two fuel pumps separately - there in-tank pump and the in-line pump under the car. And then there's the mechanical HPFP on the left side of the engine.

I'm not sure I've ever heard either of the low-pressure fuel pumps run when I turn on the ignition - but I do hear the aux water pump fire up under the hood, which kinda drowns out any fuel pumps sounds. Will have a closer listen next time I'm at the car....

[Juut]

Originally Posted by wpoll

You'll likely need to diagnose the two fuel pumps separately - there in-tank pump and the in-line pump under the car. And then there's the mechanical HPFP on the left side of the engine.

I'm not sure I've ever heard either of the low-pressure fuel pumps run when I turn on the ignition - but I do hear the aux water pump fire up under the hood, which kinda drowns out any fuel pumps sounds. Will have a closer listen next time I'm at the car....

Aye thats true, But you can always hear the main pump in the back even with the seats down etc, We took them off entirey and had a ear on the actual sender unit itself and zero noise/vibrations so very likely it's dead

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Juut

Aye thats true, But you can always hear the main pump in the back even with the seats down etc, We took them off entirey and had a ear on the actual sender unit itself and zero noise/vibrations so very likely it's dead

Fairy Nuff.

BTW, what year and mileage? It seems the in-tank diesel fuel pumps outlast the petrol versions (better lube!) but there's not much evidence on by how much....

[Juut]

Originally Posted by wpoll

Fairy Nuff.

BTW, what year and mileage? It seems the in-tank diesel fuel pumps outlast the petrol versions (better lube!) but there's not much evidence on by how much....

05, 140,000 Miles on the clock. I'd normally agree but the pump should be at least attempting to prime the line everytime it's turned on, the fact it isn't say's a lot

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by Juut

05, 140,000 Miles on the clock. I'd normally agree but the pump should be at least attempting to prime the line everytime it's turned on, the fact it isn't say's a lot

Oh, I agree - was just curious as to age and mileage, for the collective knowledge here.

140,000 miles (225,000kms) is a bit lower than my '05 (currently at 276,000kms) but other factors can affect wear rates on electric motors.

Hoping it's a simple pump replacement and you're good for another 140,000miles!