Parasitic Current Draw with no fuses! 2004 4.4 X5 E53

[newblondon]

Hello! have a great condition (75k mikes only, very well looked after and i had it for 8 years) E53 and it recently developed what appears to be an intermittent parazitic current draw...

yes, car only used 1-2 times/week so not much use but problems only started in the last few months.

- had a new battery installed as thought old one was a suspect.. did not resolve..

- used multimeter to measure draw between battery and vehicle- after car goes to sleep - dropps to 0.23A OR sometimes to 0.17A.... i believe it should be 0.04A max

- i pulled ALL fuses (glove + rear compartment) trying to find the suspect circuit but makes no real difference to Amps reading... by the way - i pulled the fuses - did not re-installed them not to "wake" up the car... i disconnected DVD nav unit, CD changer.. no impact....

- no after market gadgets installed.... as mentioned - i had the car for 8 years and never had issues like this in the past....

about to install remotly controlled battery switch to disconnect the battery when car not in use for a few days but i would still like to fix the problem!

any thoughts / suggestions please..?

[Themoog]

Final stage resistor. Just had to swap mine as it flattened the battery overnight

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by Themoog

Final stage resistor. Just had to swap mine as it flattened the battery overnight

If all fuses (including the maxi fuses on glove compartment) were removed that rules out final stage too as it has supply from fuse F64.

[Clavurion]

Mostly the main fuses have smaller secondary fuses on the fuse boxes but some have direct feed without normal secondaries.

F107 (50 A) Light module
F201 (50 A) Trailer module
F203 (100 A) DME IVM module
F204 (50 A) EHC2 compressor supply
F205 (50 A) Transfer box module

Fuses F1xx
https://www.pss-autosoft.net/diagram...E53_EF104A.htm

Fuses F2xx
https://www.pss-autosoft.net/diagram...E53_EF207A.htm

[X5chemist]

My '06 sleeps at 11 mA. I also chased an amp draw for 6 months. Did you pull the rear fuses? What about the main fuses under the spare tire?
My amp draw was chased to the GMIII module. I should have guessed. Rear lights acted weird. It wouldn't go to sleep. Rear locks didn't work.
Another amp draw was the EWS module. Test the alternator.

[newblondon]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

My '06 sleeps at 11 mA. I also chased an amp draw for 6 months. Did you pull the rear fuses? What about the main fuses under the spare tire?
My amp draw was chased to the GMIII module. I should have guessed. Rear lights acted weird. It wouldn't go to sleep. Rear locks didn't work.
Another amp draw was the EWS module. Test the alternator.

hi! thank you - alternator was tested last summer when first barrery drain happened and was OK. it is also goes healthy 14.6v on the multimetre when car running...

[newblondon]

Thank you all for contributions:
- yes, i pulled all fuses from glove + rear wing compartment. that included the large 50 fuses...
- i also pulled the relays from the box in the engine compartment...

everything in the car seems to working OK, no issues or short cuts... admittedly i have NOT checked / cleared any faults through diagnostics....

[topolovec]

Prettys Girls in your city

[X5chemist]

Intermitted draws can take time to find. Did you to a voltage drop across fuses? I would do a voltage drop before pulling fuses. Another good option is to use a thermal camera if available.

[Effduration]

Can I ask that we get our descriptions consistent ?

you are looking for less than 50 Milliamps - not 0.05 milliamps - when car is sleeping.. Using a multimeter set to DC 10 Amp setting, this will show up as 0.05...see pic in link below.

Based on your readings, I am not sure you have a parasitic draw, but maybe it is intermittent...

I think you should not have pulled ALL fuses but probed the back of each installed fuse per the following link:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...t-sunroof.html

I think pulling ALL fuses may actually hide (disable) your parasitic draw if you indeed have one.

I would put all fuses back in, hook up the MM between negative terminal and neg cable, leave it that way and periodically check for a draw higher than 50 milliamps, THEN probe fuses...