Q: PASoft temp gauge programming

[haigha]

Hi all!

It has been a while since I posted. My 04 4.4i turns 21 this month

I had a taillight problem for the first time and used the information on the forum to track down the issue. I used Andrew's self-tapping screw fix. That enabled me to pass the state inspection. Still on the original bulbs and no money spent on parts! Thanks!

Now, I'm trying to fix a few errors with PASoft. I read about the issue with coolant gauge. I found this summary of how to fix the problem on E53's:

PA Soft 1.4 | Crowz Nest

However, when I read the values in my IKE, I have different default ones:

0F 63 32 CD 4B CD 73 37 78 69 7D FF

than are listed there:

0F 65 32 D0 4B D0 73 38 78 69 7D FF

Can I just plug in the values that are changed in the link above, so it would read:

0F 63 3C CD 55 CD 5F 37 6E 69 73 FF

?

I understand what the changed values represent, but don't know what the other values that are slightly different on mine mean. The hex string appears twice on mine, as mentioned in the article. From what I read, I will need to change it in both places.

Thanks!


I also read this thread about the speedometer accuracy, and searched for the values Wayne and OB mentioned, but didn't find them.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ffset-fix.html

[andrewwynn]

I suspect the difference is just minor changes of 3.0 v 4.4. You can always put back of things go haywire.

I wish I'd have done the fix on my 3.0!

Now with e70 i just use bimmerlink for a real gauge for both oil and coolant temp real-time

[haigha]

Thanks, Andrew (and for the light fix!).

I'm interested in what those values represent, if anyone knows

[BimmerBreaker]

Originally Posted by haigha

I read about the issue with coolant gauge. I found this summary of how to fix the problem on E53's:

Why is the "dummy gauge" a problem exactly? Modern cars don't even have coolant gauges, they have lights that come on when overheating.

The thing about the engines in the X5 is they all have electronically assisted thermostats. They will run hotter during low load and when idling to increase efficiency. The thermostat opens earlier when under high load to cool them down due to the increased heat being generated. As a result of this, the temperature swing is pretty drastic. In fact, the thermostat opening range varies from 80C - 103C and temperatures up to 110C are normal and perfectly fine.

When it is above normal operating temperature, the needle moves above TDC. When it is below normal operating temperature, the needle moves below TDC. This is a completely logical design. TDC encompasses the entire designed operating range of the engine.

There is no need and no benefit to watching the needle swing up and down. All it does is make people think they have a problem then they spend a lot of effort trying to make their car run cooler when it's actually running at the temperatures BMW designed it to.

"All my other cars have real temperature gauges!" - they also have normal thermostats
"I want to know when it's overheating or running hot" - it already does this, the needle moves above TDC if overheating

If you need to know the exact temperature for some reason (and there are some reasons to know this on occasion - and knowing the EXACT value in those cases is better than "the needle is here on the gauge") you can use the "secret cluster test" and display the numeric value.


This isn't a "fix" because it isn't a problem. It's change for changes sake.

[haigha]

Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker

...There is no need and no benefit to watching the needle swing up and down. All it does is make people think they have a problem then they spend a lot of effort trying to make their car run cooler when it's actually running at the temperatures BMW designed it to.
...

From what I understand, both Andrew and Overboost experienced major problems. With the way the gauge is programmed by BMW, it didn't give them enough time to react to the overheating.

[oldskewel]

I had the same question about the in-between values. My conclusion was to leave them unchanged, and that worked for me.

Question in post 50 of the thread, my conclusions two posts later.

https://xoutpost.com/1163366-post50.html

[haigha]

Originally Posted by oldskewel

I had the same question about the in-between values. My conclusion was to leave them unchanged, and that worked for me....

Thanks, OS! I did search before posting, but didn't find that thread. Lots of useful info there and the thread linked to in post #56

[andrewwynn]

The problem i had was my car ran rich in open loop for four months while i waited for it to become fall and i couldn't get cabin heat with no warning because the 3-position non thermometer.

They put an actual thermostat for oil on wife's f10. It's moronic to have a gauge that looks like a thermometer but isn't.

Hear is a perfect analog:

So BMW might decide that it would be best if the speedometer would show 70 mph when there actual speed was anything between 50 and 90 mph.

Then would show 120mph if you hit 75 mph.

This is how the non thermostat gauge works. It's really stupid.

The needle should not show normal temp unless the engine is warm enough to operate in closed loop.

[haigha]

Thanks for clarifying, Andrew.

I understand that for the majority of drivers, having the default gauge set up will cause less confusion. On the other hand, for the enthusiasts here and on the 3 series forum, where I think this mod originated, the mod is useful.

I understand BimmerBreaker's point about the new ranges being too narrow for some, but I'll start with them and if the needle is too distracting as a result, I'll put a little more range in the middle.

As far as BMW engineers being smarter than us, I'd say sure, at least in my case. However, there are lots of factors at play here: average driver, large company decisions are sometimes compromises, etc.

Another example is the speedometer. I, and others on the forum, would rather have it be accurate, like it is in Japan. But, BMW decided we need a little buffer. So every time I look at that gauge, I have to do a small calculation. This is second nature after driving BMW's since the mid-80's. Still a small pain point that I'd rather correct.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

...It's moronic to have a gauge that looks like a thermometer but isn't.

Hear is a perfect analog:

So BMW might decide that it would be best if the speedometer would show 70 mph when there actual speed was anything between 50 and 90 mph.

Then would show 120mph if you hit 75 mph.

This is how the non thermostat gauge works. It's really stupid.

The needle should not show normal temp unless the engine is warm enough to operate in closed loop.

Somebody should make a set of instrument panel overlays that show the speedometer ranges as andrewwynn suggested. And for the temp gauge, too, with ranges from "too cold" to "just right" to "too late". I'd buy a set, and continue to get my data via Torque Pro thru the OBD port, as I always do, as displayed on an Android tablet.

One can never tell if the analog dash gauges (on early BMW's like mine; I have no idea when they switched to digital, if they did or not) are working properly anyway. My Tachometer (RPM gauge) on the dash quit working awhile back in the X5, so I simply tapped my finger on the plastic cover, and it resumed operation, and continues working properly months later.

I've had many vehicles with idiot lights only, or with gauges that stopped working, mostly pre-OBD2 (1996), and I either added aftermarket gauges to replace them ($$), got them fixed by a specialist shop ($$$), or did a workaround (no $ required). On a couple of old GM trucks, and my '66 Chevelle (while it was still in street/strip, not full dragracing mode), I used a dash-mounted list of calculated "speeds @ RPM's" that showed what my speed was at various tach readings.