another major problem I don't need (no crank, no start)

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by wpoll

And if it turns out to be a failing key, rather than disabling the EWS, it may be cheaper and easier to simply buy a new diamond key from a dealer... just saying.

I just bought 2 keys had them cut and programed for $96 USD. The dealer here would have been $185 USD each.

YMMV....

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[workingonit]

As I stated, the battery (of the X, not the key) was at 79% before I charged it last evening. I didn't try to start it.

This a.m., 15 hours later, it again read 79-80%, so I charged it again at 10 amps for 3 hours, and the state of charge rose to 95%. Then, just now, it started perfectly 8 times in a row, before I stopped.

So, I guess my key is working, the EWS and DME are synced with the key, and I probably need a new battery.

But, at no time did the onboard battery meter (plugged into the cigar lighter socket) ever show less than 12.3 volts, even when it wouldn't crank yesterday.

The lowest I had seen the voltage drop was back when I had a previous no-start after testing (about 17 months ago):

from another thread:

Originally Posted by workingonit

...while fiddling with multiple OBD cables/switches to hookup the Foxwell and my OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle (for Android diagnostic apps) at the same time (only one would been activated at any time, so I could leave both always connected inside the X5...the LX dongle goes into a sleep mode), I let my battery drain too low, and the Foxwell didn't function too well.

I sometimes switched from Foxwell to Android app before either was ready, or tried to back out of a Foxwell function before it was ready, and it would lock-up on me. And, after that happened, I couldn't start the engine until the battery was above 12.5? v, and I learned that I should always use my Foxwell with a steady voltage supply, and never interrupt it while it was hesitating....

I always have the X plugged into a 1.5a Battery Tender at home, but it looks like my truck needs OVER 12.5 volts to crank/start. My '04 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L only needs 12v, and my '09 Chevy HHR Panel 2.2L will start at 11.5v. Are all old E53's so finicky?

I was just about to order a EWS-deleted DME, but decided to try the X as it is, once more. I can only afford one thing at a time (on my limited, post retirement budget), so

• 1) $ 150 battery first,
• 2) $ 150 EWS-deleted DME, OR
• 3) new diamond key from https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/, but the website says the E53 master key is not for sale???
  
  

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by wpoll

And if it turns out to be a failing key, rather than disabling the EWS, it may be cheaper and easier to simply buy a new diamond key from a dealer... just saying.

Negative ghost rider. The pattern is full. We have to think some other route to buzz the tower.

[workingonit]

You guys are funny. https://tenor.com/view/arte-johnson-...g-gif-15141626

Seriously, and I am taking this problem seriously, I resumed testing this afternoon, after charging the battery once more for 3.5 hours. It read 100% charged, but instantly dropped to 80%. I was still able to start the X with no trouble, with the A/C blower on low, and my electric radiator fan at 75% (2250 rpm). No problems after 5 starts. But, the voltage gauge in the truck dropped to 12.2v. So I went inside to fetch my phone (for pictures), and the Foxwell to read for codes.

Upon returning, I set the "Clore/Solar Pro-Logic PL2320 20-Amp Fully-Automatic Smart Charger, Battery Maintainer, and Stable Power Supply" on the 20amp power supply mode, and hooked-up the NT510. I also started and stopped the engine 10-12 more cycles over 45 minutes, with no problems.

With the power supply going, the voltage stayed at 13.6v, and with it and the engine started and idling (A/C on), 14.3-14.5 volts were supplied. The Foxwell performed better, as did the X. So, I will need a new battery after all, and I'll be sure to carry along a jump box as insurance, and also never test without the engine running or the Power Supply running.

As for yesterday's codes: only one KOMBI code remained after I cleared them, and I got a mystery ZKE fault (but no code was shown?).

stable power supply helps everything

the key, EWS, and DME seem to be in sync; the transmission control is communicating once more

usually two, but always this KOMBI fault

[wpoll]

The kombi BD fault is common to many (most?) E53s - Electronic Brake Force Distribution - aka EBV.

I often see this on my own car - although it was gone on my last check during an oil service last week.

If you wanna do down another rabbit hole, Google e53 EBV fault!

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by wpoll

The kombi BD fault is common to many (most?) E53s - Electronic Brake Force Distribution - aka EBV.

I often see this on my own car - although it was gone on my last check during an oil service last week.

Same here. Comes every time and doesn't affect anything, not even my personal nightmares.

On a side note I just purchased a E70 LCi 40d, so my problems are not going to diminish.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by workingonit

...from yesterday I resumed testing this afternoon, after charging the battery once more for 3.5 hours. It read 100% charged, but instantly dropped to 80%...So, I will need a new battery after all....

This afternoon, I transferred all the tools, supplies, and spare parts, which I store in the trunk of the X5, into my HHR Panel, for temporary storage there, so I could gain access to the battery (I haven't been in there for three years). All my stuff, including the spare tire, filled the HHR (I guess its about 3-400 lbs total weight), but I needed to get to the battery.

I wanted to use my old Harbor Freight (Chicago Electric) carbon-pile battery load tester, since I believe my battery is dying, and the "electronic" battery and alternator tests (performed with an Innova 3100i scan tool) have been innaccurate...so back to an old-school method.

However, once I observed the battery (all terminals tight and clean), I saw and remembered the BST (battery safety terminal) installed on the positive post. I usually test batteries (with the carbon-pile tester), with the cables still hooked-up, but I'm afraid that doing so on the X, will trigger the BST to self-destruct.

Also, if/when I remove the cables (for testing or replacing the battery), I'm also afraid that my truck will lose the sync from all the modules (again). Should I worry? or just connect a "memory saver" device to the OBD port?

I took a picture of the battery (I have no idea how old it is), but I haven't found the manufacture or install date, yet. Anyway, I need to further confirm that the battery is failing, before the CFO allows me to buy another battery (my '04 2500 HD, backup vehicle, has needed one for two months, also).

[Clavurion]

Some batteries have the production week/year (xx/xx) marked on top of either post.

[workingonit]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

Some batteries have the production week/year (xx/xx) marked on top of either post.

I found the date sticker on the left side, below the gas tube. It read 5/20. if this battery is dying, it will be the only one I've had that didn't make it at least 6.5 years.

Hey, Clavurion, to hook-up and use my carbon-pile tester, can I use the B+ and B- posts underhood instead? I don't want to deal with the BST at the battery, if I don't have a memory saver, yet. Will it work?

[haigha]

Not an expert, but I don't think using the B+ terminal is a good idea. I know it doesn't work on the B+ with my Bluetooth based battery tester. I have to disconnect the battery in the back with it. It sounds like your tool is going to put load on the battery. I wouldn't risk that with all the electronics in the vehicle exposed.