AWD -> RWD

[X5chemist]

2WD is smooth? Mine is Xdrive. I'll have to get it above 115 MPH to find out.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Flyingdutchman

Removed both driveshafts. Tried the diff but wont come out. Just short of a few mm

What's the sticking point? If it's a tiny clearance issue raise the motor a bit. If under a cm you can likely just stretch the motor mounts. More, loosen the mm bolts.

Also: no more pushing the dif from the output shafts, 95% of any "con" from front is already gone. The extra 40# from the diff is just as likely to help keep tires planted as help yaw rate. You'd literally have to run a track with and without to know which is better.


–awr–

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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

2WD is smooth? Mine is Xdrive. I'll have to get it above 115 MPH to find out.

I'n my experience, 3.0 tops out shy of 110.

50i, on the other hand? Woah.

X drive starts RWD every launch wife used to chew up her rear tires twice as fast as front.


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[Flyingdutchman]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

2WD is smooth? Mine is Xdrive. I'll have to get it above 115 MPH to find out.

Im not sure why but the car always had a bit of a shake vibrations at various speeds and corners. I thought it was mostly my Kuhmo tires before I started noticing other issues regarding the worn TC. Anyway after pulling the plug to the TC the car felt very smooth. Less shake. But at manoeuvring and driving backwards from the drive way still felt some tugging. So now three axles are removed to let front wheels run free.

[Flyingdutchman]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

What's the sticking point? If it's a tiny clearance issue raise the motor a bit. If under a cm you can likely just stretch the motor mounts. More, loosen the mm bolts.

Also: no more pushing the dif from the output shafts, 95% of any "con" from front is already gone. The extra 40# from the diff is just as likely to help keep tires planted as help yaw rate. You'd literally have to run a track with and without to know which is better.


–awr–

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The widest point, the two output shafts, get stuk between engine and the steel subframe (and the engine mount on it). Engine need move right and that was too much work for me. It doesn't matter if the diff stay's, just me wanting to remove things that don;t do anything

[andrewwynn]

Can’t be stuck if it’s liquid (or cut in pieces).

If the output flange sticks out far enough you can use a long Sawzall blade and cut it off past the bearing.

(Will make somebody that needs a replacement pretty sad though).

Diff is on left side of motor wouldn't you have to move motor right to make room?


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[andrewwynn]

I looked up the steps in TIS and it includes raising motor 1cm, lowering axle by using longer bolts in place of stock (didn't say how far just what's left after using e38 bolts), and removing left motor mount.

It's definitely an all day job.

Guess you have some front axle ballast.


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[Flyingdutchman]

Hey, thx. That might work yes but I was laying underneath it on the drive way. Looked at raising the engine but my guess is that would not be enough, would need to go right somehow. Possibly the dropping of the steel subframe would help for that last bit. Any way, I left it in, emptied the oil and plugged the holes. Car drives fabulous.

[Henn28]

It’ll definitely go in or out with the motor raised up a few inches and the subframe dropped. It won’t if you just raise the motor to the max you can while it’s attached to the tranny….i spent an hour or two on my back trying to bench press that thing in with thr x5 on jackstands and the engine pulled up as high as I dared.

Eventually i threw in the towel and used several floor jacks to drop the subframe several inches. I didn’t have to pull the motor mount, if I recall correctly. I also don’t remember if unbolted the struts at the tower or the knuckle. Probably the tower is a bit easier. It all sucked at that stage.

[andrewwynn]

In this case where replace isn't the plan, empty and attached makes the most sense.


–awr–

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