2003 X5 stalled while driving at low speed

[Meestahbig]

So I assume all of us agree I should swap in BMW crank and cam sensors. Man replacing that crank sensor sucked.

[Meestahbig]

Ok. I ordered a new fuel pump and new air filter. I'll clean the IAC and clean the MAF. I'll test the battery and the alternator and check over all the electric wiring. I'll go from there and report back.

[Meestahbig]

Also ordered cam sensors Genuine BMW. Sadly, just had mechanic replace these, while I was having some minor surgery and didn't want to mess with the car in the meantime. I'll redo them, as I'm certain they were not genuine givennthe price I paid for the parts and labor.

I want to run this car to 300k miles, it's a lifelong goal. So I'm willing to put in new parts if I'm doing the labor because it's still relatively inexpensive. I just don't want to have an accident.

[80stech]

The crank sensor (and coolant tubes) pairs nicely with changing the starter. I have 500k km on mine so you probably have some good use left! Some on this forum have just done a clean-up on the starter and have had good success getting the cranking speed back.

[andrewwynn]

That's true. Refurbish is possible. First measure the current. If it's close to 225A that's normal and it likely is the battery.

You can search i think somebody posted about refurbish starter inn the past year


–awr–

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[Salty B.]

If I do end up replacing the ICV, and don't want to spend $500 for a Bosch part, are there aftermarket parts that are any good?

I bought a cheapie from amazon just to have on hand, but I know it's probably junk and won't last a year. RockAuto has a number of them from Wells, Standard Motor, Walker. I know from experience to avoid Üro parts.

[80stech]

The problem is more that the cheap part might not work properly, or at all, and drive you nuts, not so much that it won't last as long! I think we had a member a while back go through the ICV thing.

[andrewwynn]

I plug in the part at FCP and it will suggest which brands are OE or OEM as a starting point.

I will use aftermarket for non mission critical parts but cam/crank/maf/O₂ (pre cat) get OE when possible.

ICV is more mission helpful than critical. Some diagnostics involve unplugging the thing and the engine will still run just not great.

Did you replace any parts yet? Any changes in symptoms?


–awr–

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[Meestahbig]

Nope. Haven't done a thing yet... Just have the parts sitting. Hopefully get to it all in next week or two. Kind of still bothered by it all since it's like a ghost chase.

[Meestahbig]

Well very minor update. Have driven the car 300 miles. No issue, not a blip. It was 8000 miles driven between the two stalls, so 300 isn't much but it's something. Meanwhile - I've only cleaned the MAF sensor and I also cleaned up the IACV. It was pretty dirty, rattling when I took it out but was dirty and slow after spraying it, it was rattling and swinging much more freely. I think this very well could be the issue. If the valve didn't open one of the thousands of times I've take my foot off the throttle. Well let's see, but driving will be somewhat limited for the time being.