service engine light scanned for codes

[WhiteX5]

The following codes came up when BMW scanned the X5 (2002 4.4)
1.p1159
2.p2187
3.p1161
4.p2189

The service department said there were some damaged vent hoses in the rear of the engine $400 estimate. It didn't seem right anybody know the codes or any similar problem with vent hoses.

I had AutoZone run a scan and they came up with two codes
Fuel air metering and fuel stepper motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[Seba]

Originally Posted by WhiteX5

The following codes came up when BMW scanned the X5 (2002 4.4)
1.p1159
2.p2187
3.p1161
4.p2189

The service department said there were some damaged vent hoses in the rear of the engine $400 estimate. It didn't seem right anybody know the codes or any similar problem with vent hoses.

I had AutoZone run a scan and they came up with two codes
Fuel air metering and fuel stepper motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

You might have the same problem as mine; I'll be working on it next weekend. There are two hoses towards the rear of the engine (just take off the engine cover and you'll see them). Mine got very soft and gooey and one of them is widely split open. Try to feel them by hand and you'll figure out right away if that's the problem. It seems to be a little tricky to replace them, but I'll do it myself.
If your problem is the air mass filter going bad, that's a very easy DYI but the part is expensive (about $300).

[Mackskibum]

According to my Auterra software:

P1159 Fuel Trim adaptation additive bank one high

P2187 System too lean at idle bank one

P1161 M52 Engine Oil temperature sensor circuit

P2189 System too lean at idle bank two

*** my scan tool may be incorrect on the P1161- I'm not sure***

It appears to me that you have a vacuum leak larger than the electronics can handle, and the fuel trim is ahowing this ny adding more fuel to the mixture. The fact that both sides are showing lean suggests your vent hose problem may be the culprit. If not, I would look at MAF next. The MAF is easy to change- all you need is a screwdriver.

Here's what I would do given your scenario:

Correct the vent hose problem and reset codes. See if any come back. If they do, look at the MAF- I had mine replaced on my '00 4.4 at roughly 75K mi.

You also don't know if any of the codes have been there and not related to your current problem.

Hope this helps.

[WhiteX5]

thanks for the quick response
I had the dealership replace all four hoses at the back of the engine cost me $285 solved the problem
Thanks again

[jp99]

Seba - I've got this same problem - how did you manage to replace those two hoses? I can barely get my hands back there, much less a screw driver to tighten hose clamps.

[ThrasherFan]

Seba/JP99,

I've got the same 2 crankcase vent hoses at the back of the engine on my 4.4 that have deteriorated and causing Mixture Control faults. Did you replace these on your own? If so, could you share how you were able to access these hoses for removal and replacement?

Thanx!

[jp99]

Originally Posted by ThrasherFan

Seba/JP99,

I've got the same 2 crankcase vent hoses at the back of the engine on my 4.4 that have deteriorated and causing Mixture Control faults. Did you replace these on your own? If so, could you share how you were able to access these hoses for removal and replacement?

Thanx!

The center plastic component just above those hoses comes off - it holds the pollen filter and, at firewall, fits into two ventilation ports. Once off, you have ready access to the back end of those rotten hoses.

1. Pull the long rubber gasket that seals the area - runs parallel to the firewall the width of the engine compartment.
2. Pull rain catchers (or whatever they are) on each side of the pollen filter area - pull straight up - each is about the size of your hand - they are snap-in, vertically.
3. Locate large nut that holds your battery positive cable in place - locate similar nut on the other side of the engine - that one does not appear to hold anything. Remove nuts, pull the plastic housing straight back off the bolts and lift out. Bolts will stay in place. That center housing, with pollen filter on top, comes out as one large piece - note how it fits back in at the firewall.
4. You should have easy access to the back ends of those hoses. In my case, the back ends had standard BMW hose clamps while the front, top ends had crimped clamps. The crimped ones come off readily with a screw driver to pry at the crimp point or, better, pry the wrapped part of the clamp up and back.
5. Replace hoses, reverse assembly procedure. I bought the two hoses at local dealer and got, also, two clamps to replace the crimped ones.

Ran quieter and smoother, took care of P1159 and P1161 fault codes. The replacement hoses are modified from the original but the parts guy had no idea if they were any better. I doubt it - looks like something that needs to be done every 4 or 5 years.

Good luck - post back if you have a problem. Fun project.

[ThrasherFan]

Thanks jp99. I started down path of removing things to access the hoses and your reply was timely and confirmed what I started. I asked parts guy at local dealer same question about durability of new hoses and he didn't know either. My X5 defintley runs quieter with the new hoses in place.

Thanks again for help!

[my02x5]

Originally Posted by jp99

The center plastic component just above those hoses comes off - it holds the pollen filter and, at firewall, fits into two ventilation ports. Once off, you have ready access to the back end of those rotten hoses.

1. Pull the long rubber gasket that seals the area - runs parallel to the firewall the width of the engine compartment.
2. Pull rain catchers (or whatever they are) on each side of the pollen filter area - pull straight up - each is about the size of your hand - they are snap-in, vertically.
3. Locate large nut that holds your battery positive cable in place - locate similar nut on the other side of the engine - that one does not appear to hold anything. Remove nuts, pull the plastic housing straight back off the bolts and lift out. Bolts will stay in place. That center housing, with pollen filter on top, comes out as one large piece - note how it fits back in at the firewall.
4. You should have easy access to the back ends of those hoses. In my case, the back ends had standard BMW hose clamps while the front, top ends had crimped clamps. The crimped ones come off readily with a screw driver to pry at the crimp point or, better, pry the wrapped part of the clamp up and back.
5. Replace hoses, reverse assembly procedure. I bought the two hoses at local dealer and got, also, two clamps to replace the crimped ones.

Ran quieter and smoother, took care of P1159 and P1161 fault codes. The replacement hoses are modified from the original but the parts guy had no idea if they were any better. I doubt it - looks like something that needs to be done every 4 or 5 years.

Good luck - post back if you have a problem. Fun project.

I got the same problem on my '03. Both of my hoses that I can see after removing the engine cover are very soft and "gooey". Actually, one of these two hoses has a large crack and must be replaced. Where is a good place to shop for these hoses. I am having trouble locating them on the internet. Don't really want to buy them from the dealer. What keyword should I use to search for them. thanks in advance.

[acucu]

when you replace mass air flow you dont need to update the dme correct