Wheel bearing time? HMMMMMMMMM

[X5chemist]

Originally Posted by workingonit

Wow, you must've found a shop like there used to be, around where I grew up ....
you found a good place to trust your car, so patronize their business.

I drove by the shop on Thursday. The manager I know is back. He had moved to a different store. I'm glad he's back. He pulled up my records. Five cars on different accounts and info. He grouped them all together. He did notice the no shop charge on checking the transmission and transfer case oil levels. The X5 has an appointment at 9:00 11/16 to replace the shift seal. Plus a 22 point transmission inspection. I'll keep driving the X5. Hopefully, I can pin point the bad bearing before the appointment. If not, I'll ask them to help identify the bad one. I'll probably ask for a transfer case oil change. It has 25,000+ miles on it. I'm sure I was the first owner that serviced it at ~154k miles.

andrew, I like the manual impact try. I'll reduce 3/8 extensions to 1/4" and hammer the bolts. My manual impact is probably older than most users here. : I was given the tool by a muffler shop owner. He worked on several of my vehicles. If his shop was still open, the X5 exhaust would be modified. X pipe, resonator removal, and high flow muffler. I had a good business relationship with the owner. He dragged raced in his younger years. He showed me $11k- $20k motors for is cars. He was a millionaire! He worked because he was bored! The shop owner once had a shop in Kalifornia. He said one day some guy walked in asking for custom made headers. He remembers making those headers. The headers were meant for a big block motor. He was proud of his craftsmanship. Who asked for custom headers? The man himself, Carroll Shelby!

[Effduration]

thanks for sharing that E70 rear bearing video.
looks exactly like the process Andrew used in his DIY..
Andrew cuts a slot in the bearing bolts to make it easier reinstall (and remove) them.

interesting that one of the four bolts in the video holding the bearing to the hub was (apparently from the factory) an E16 instead of an E14.

[andrewwynn]

I've been wanting to try to use a hammer type impact screwdriver to try to initially loosen and skip the whole get it from under the CV boot solution.

When i have to eventually fix my e70 rear bearing I'm thinking of trying that.

I don't dare use a big impact gun because it doesn't take advantage of the axial thrust to keep it from camming out.


–awr–

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[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I've been wanting to try to use a hammer type impact screwdriver to try to initially loosen and skip the whole get it from under the CV boot solution.

When i have to eventually fix my e70 rear bearing I'm thinking of trying that.

I don't dare use a big impact gun because it doesn't take advantage of the axial thrust to keep it from camming out.

Do you mean impact hammer? That's the tool to push the drive shaft off the hub flange (with a round tip) and then to crack the inner race (with chisel tip) off the flange after cutting a slot.

Also put the bearings in the freezer before installing on the hub and use the old inner race when pushing the new bearing on the hub.

On the video I didn't understand what's the difficulty removing the parking brake shoes. I would remove them out of the way to start with.

When bearing is off I would also remove the ABS sensor when you have the leverage to push it out. Then clean the sensor hole and install with anti-seize. If the sensor ever needs changing it would be a breeze.

[andrewwynn]

Impact screwdriver.

Learn from my mistake: always remove abs sensor before any impacts on the hub eg. slide hammer hub removal.

With my updated 1" drive screw i no longer need to use heat or cold to assist but i will usually freezer the logical part before assembly. (bearing on front wheels, hub on back wheels).


–awr–

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[andrewwynn]

Nice story!

30 N·m + 90° for the bearing flange bolts. I'm not sure what that will end up but I love the idea of getting them loose from the outside and just pull the hub off rather than push in the axle spline first.

Putting it together i suspect you can't get to the torque spec partly because the small groove size and partly because of having to use a long blade through the hub.

You can get them snug though and i always add the screw slot for that reason.


–awr–

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[X5chemist]

It was warm today. I lifted the front wheels to spin. My mechanic stethoscopes were both broken. I found an old broom stick and cut it down for use. The brakes made wheels hard to spin fast. I could only hear brake pads rubbing. With no weight on, my results may be false. Next week, it's due for a shifter seal replacement. I'll ask the shop to test it in drive while it's on a lift.

I have two FAG front bearings. One rear hub to use if needed. I pulled out the old manual impact. It's nice and sturdy. Harbor Freight has a manual screw driver set for $8. I may go get it to add to my tool collection.

[80stech]

Did I mention "chassis ears" ?? With 6 channels you can do all four wheels, steady bearing and diff at the same time. Better to have another person drive while you listen if you really want to be safe! They are sensitive enough to pick out a poor quality/fake bearing.

I'm curious how much they are going to charge to do that selector shaft seal

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Did I mention "chassis ears" ?? With 6 channels you can do all four wheels, steady bearing and diff at the same time. Better to have another person drive while you listen if you really want to be safe! They are sensitive enough to pick out a poor quality/fake bearing.

I'm curious how much they are going to charge to do that selector shaft seal

I'm curious about the seal change cost as well. I did my own. Not really difficult if you get the special tool to remove the old seal. Hardest part is pulling the front drive shaft. It might have been possible to do it without removing the shaft, but I didn't have the patience to figure out how. Pulling the shaft is not very difficult.

[Effduration]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

I'm curious about the seal change cost as well. I did my own. Not really difficult if you get the special tool to remove the old seal. Hardest part is pulling the front drive shaft. It might have been possible to do it without removing the shaft, but I didn't have the patience to figure out how. Pulling the shaft is not very difficult.

I recently did my selector shaft seal on my '05 3.0.
I did not remove the front drivehaft, in fact it provided a solid place to lever against when reinstalling the seal.

I used the Napa tool for removal..and an appropriate sized socket for installatio.

No problem working around the front driveshaft.