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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#2
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Well picked it up from mechanic and it sounds dire, he showed me very quickly a screenshot of 2 faults, one referenced I think clutch 1,2,3 or gear 1 2 3, the next was reference to solenoid.
He said we can get the service kit or oil change kit (my head was trying to digest bad news at this point) , put new oil in and 30% chance will be ok, all at my own risk, will be 500euros worse off if doesn't fix issue. If it doesn't fix then its rebuild and we are looking to 3000. I asked him if its leaking and if he said yes, dirty black fluid, but couldn't he have just ordered the zf fluid on its own and supplemented it or even replaced it? which is what i wanted ? .. he told me the leak was slow over time. Am tempted to seek a second opinion one where they will actually check the level and/or even take a gamble and just drain and pump new fluid in and take it from there, which is what I wanted this mechanic to do but didnt.... At the moment he reset the error and its driving normal but i am going easy. Plus real sorry I didn't get the codes but the one referencing solenoid not too sure has anything to do with the level of fluid which remains a mystery cos mechanic didnt bother to check....
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#3
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Check my post and TBH if it's the same switches then one can be cleaned (magnetic switch) of particles and you'll be good and the other is the whole mechatronic (rebuild or replace) neither is very difficult and very doable for most people 3 out of 10 difficulty. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app 500 EUR for parts, fluid, filter and labor doesn't seem outrageous to me. Many mechanics will knock off the first amount (partial rebuild) if they have to go in and do a full rebuild, since they already did part of it and aren't going to "rebuild/replace" the just rebuilt part. Sent from Embassy network using Tapatalk
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"When the Team Chief said.... You're trapped in a hole with nothing but a goat and a slinky, what do you do? Stubby said, I'm not sure but it won't end well for the goat...." ~(Overheard) Last day, Phase 3, Q Course |
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#4
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You want the kit that has the filter, magnet, fluid and gasket, at least. And the mechatronic sleeve... that's probably where the leak is. I'd guess at this point it needs the bridge seal and the four(?) cylindrical seals that are above the valve body... and maybe the solenoids too.
I did all those a couple of years ago and my '04 only had 46k miles at that point. |
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#5
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1. With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. 2. The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature or use an infrared thermal gun aimed at the oil stream or bottom of pan. 3. The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed. 4. Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position. 5. With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct. 6. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low, and oil needs to be added until it overflows. 7. With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque. One other factor that is likely on yours (like mine) - the fill and drain plug are BOTH of the bottom of the pan, so you need a fluid pump etc. to add fluid.
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Wayne 2005 BMW X5 3.0d (b 02/05) 2001 BMW F650GS Dakar (b 06/01) |
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#6
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Again thanks to all, im taking it to a second place, and i will start by asking for fluid to be checked toppoed up...if it is and buys me some time and limp mode doesnt resurface i will get the service kit done in a couple of weeks...as for total rebuild it will make me dump car...its too specialized, i will lose access to car for weeks,and really doubt they can do properly...i will see if i find EOdguys posts to compare symptoms..just wondering wby i got the trans.fail going down slopes and if was related to depleted or spent lluid pooling at one end of transfer case...course neither here. nor there now as up until codes cleared trans.failsafe was on all the time
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#7
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I doubt it's a failing transmission if a reset makes it run well.
No experience with the ZF 6 so I would seriously consider exploring the advice of others who've already posted their experience. Worn clutches wouldnt run well then suddenly not, then run well again with a reset. Just went through this with a Mercedes 722.4 transmission. It had the usual for this transmission worn reverse clutches and slipping was distinct and consistent.
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04 X5 3.0i auto 03 X5 4.6is |
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#8
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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#9
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With built in sponge to soak up any leak to keep it hidden for years.
–awr– Using Tapatalk VIP on iPhone
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
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#10
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Yup damn foam sure mine has burnt aged to a crispy consistency as i manged to poke finger in a crevace our of curiosity, @wpoll thanks for pics and clarification....covered 7miles today , no highway just timid driving no hill climbing or descending to try recreate issue....as everyone says need a good scanner...will do a motorway run tomorrow and see....read so many causes of the error head is spinning...and does seem odd the error code that left me limpmode for 3 days was undone after code reset ,if there was a permanent critical failure the error should resurfaced?dunno kids love X but this latest event n lack of garrages willing to troubleshoot is testing my love for beast
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E53 X5 3.0d SUV prod.date 11/2004 eng.variant M57N Europe Right hand drive N |
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