TRANS.FAILSAFE-can be driven in this mode for how long?

[omodos]

Originally Posted by g300d

Not sure if the diesels extended accoustic panels under the trans but on the gassers you can see the trans pan if you take a peek under the car by the front doors.

I would not recommend driving it regularly in limp mode especially if it is perpetually in it now. Before I'd be driving and it would randomly pop up. But when it got more frequent I stopped using the car till fixed.

It running normally then suddenly going into limp mode does not seem to be a failing transmission IMO

Ok fella thanks for reverting, well mechanic highly doubt he will even look at it today although was told he is working on it, and yes it always ran smooth, just those glitches and not everytime i'd go down a steep slope...and yup now fully stuck in ocean crusier mode as I call it....well well frustrating especially knowing how off the mark it was before it went limp...anyway i will see what dr. says and re-post

[omodos]

Well picked it up from mechanic and it sounds dire, he showed me very quickly a screenshot of 2 faults, one referenced I think clutch 1,2,3 or gear 1 2 3, the next was reference to solenoid.

He said we can get the service kit or oil change kit (my head was trying to digest bad news at this point) , put new oil in and 30% chance will be ok, all at my own risk, will be 500euros worse off if doesn't fix issue. If it doesn't fix then its rebuild and we are looking to 3000.

I asked him if its leaking and if he said yes, dirty black fluid, but couldn't he have just ordered the zf fluid on its own and supplemented it or even replaced it? which is what i wanted ? .. he told me the leak was slow over time. Am tempted to seek a second opinion one where they will actually check the level and/or even take a gamble and just drain and pump new fluid in and take it from there, which is what I wanted this mechanic to do but didnt....

At the moment he reset the error and its driving normal but i am going easy.

Plus real sorry I didn't get the codes but the one referencing solenoid not too sure has anything to do with the level of fluid which remains a mystery cos mechanic didnt bother to check....

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by omodos

Well picked it up from mechanic and it sounds dire, he showed me very quickly a screenshot of 2 faults, one referenced I think clutch 1,2,3 or gear 1 2 3, the next was reference to solenoid.



He said we can get the service kit or oil change kit (my head was trying to digest bad news at this point) , put new oil in and 30% chance will be ok, all at my own risk, will be 500euros worse off if doesn't fix issue. If it doesn't fix then its rebuild and we are looking to 3000.



I asked him if its leaking and if he said yes, dirty black fluid, but couldn't he have just ordered the zf fluid on its own and supplemented it or even replaced it? which is what i wanted ? .. he told me the leak was slow over time. Am tempted to seek a second opinion one where they will actually check the level and/or even take a gamble and just drain and pump new fluid in and take it from there, which is what I wanted this mechanic to do but didnt....



At the moment he reset the error and its driving normal but i am going easy.



Plus real sorry I didn't get the codes but the one referencing solenoid not too sure has anything to do with the level of fluid which remains a mystery cos mechanic didnt bother to check....

Sounds like you have some of the same scans I had with my ZF.

Check my post and TBH if it's the same switches then one can be cleaned (magnetic switch) of particles and you'll be good and the other is the whole mechatronic (rebuild or replace) neither is very difficult and very doable for most people 3 out of 10 difficulty.

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500 EUR for parts, fluid, filter and labor doesn't seem outrageous to me. Many mechanics will knock off the first amount (partial rebuild) if they have to go in and do a full rebuild, since they already did part of it and aren't going to "rebuild/replace" the just rebuilt part.


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[haigha]

You want the kit that has the filter, magnet, fluid and gasket, at least. And the mechatronic sleeve... that's probably where the leak is. I'd guess at this point it needs the bridge seal and the four(?) cylindrical seals that are above the valve body... and maybe the solenoids too.

I did all those a couple of years ago and my '04 only had 46k miles at that point.

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by omodos

... Plus real sorry I didn't get the codes but the one referencing solenoid not too sure has anything to do with the level of fluid which remains a mystery cos mechanic didnt bother to check....

The fluid level check isn't difficult, but it DOES take some time.

1. With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand.

2. The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature or use an infrared thermal gun aimed at the oil stream or bottom of pan.

3. The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed.

4. Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position.

5. With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct.

6. If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low, and oil needs to be added until it overflows.

7. With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque.

One other factor that is likely on yours (like mine) - the fill and drain plug are BOTH of the bottom of the pan, so you need a fluid pump etc. to add fluid.

[omodos]

Again thanks to all, im taking it to a second place, and i will start by asking for fluid to be checked toppoed up...if it is and buys me some time and limp mode doesnt resurface i will get the service kit done in a couple of weeks...as for total rebuild it will make me dump car...its too specialized, i will lose access to car for weeks,and really doubt they can do properly...i will see if i find EOdguys posts to compare symptoms..just wondering wby i got the trans.fail going down slopes and if was related to depleted or spent lluid pooling at one end of transfer case...course neither here. nor there now as up until codes cleared trans.failsafe was on all the time

[EODguy]

Originally Posted by omodos

Again thanks to all, im taking it to a second place, and i will start by asking for fluid to be checked toppoed up...if it is and buys me some time and limp mode doesnt resurface i will get the service kit done in a couple of weeks...as for total rebuild it will make me dump car...its too specialized, i will lose access to car for weeks,and really doubt they can do properly...i will see if i find EOdguys posts to compare symptoms..just wondering wby i got the trans.fail going down slopes and if was related to depleted or spent lluid pooling at one end of transfer case...course neither here. nor there now as up until codes cleared trans.failsafe was on all the time

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[omodos]

Originally Posted by EODguy

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Thanks , not sure i'll find mechanic able to dive into such depths troubleshooting out here, let alone fix it, hence the proposed action lets do the oil service kit at your own risk with 30% chance of success, and besides crawled under X this morning there was no sign of the underbelly splash plates etc being removed, and on diesel without removing these gubbins a leak cant be visaually detected (according to Wpoll..so begs question why he said its a slow leak and fluid is dirty black.....he never checked level full stop, or else would have seen tell tale fingerprints etc etc on parts removed to be able to check this)

Gave it a quick spin 10mins this am, ok no error but means nought, will seek out another opinion, as dont want to start throwing parts at it, In meantime have found one mechanic willing to take a peek at short notice and despite me telling him the displayed code has been wiped by another garage..chucking scanner tool on it alone is not what i want, i want them to verify no leak for a start and take it from there

[g300d]

I doubt it's a failing transmission if a reset makes it run well.

No experience with the ZF 6 so I would seriously consider exploring the advice of others who've already posted their experience.

Worn clutches wouldnt run well then suddenly not, then run well again with a reset. Just went through this with a Mercedes 722.4 transmission. It had the usual for this transmission worn reverse clutches and slipping was distinct and consistent.

[omodos]

Originally Posted by g300d

I doubt it's a failing transmission if a reset makes it run well.

No experience with the ZF 6 so I would seriously consider exploring the advice of others who've already posted their experience.

Worn clutches wouldnt run well then suddenly not, then run well again with a reset. Just went through this with a Mercedes 722.4 transmission. It had the usual for this transmission worn reverse clutches and slipping was distinct and consistent.

Thanks kind sir, yes your point makes sense, it runs fine after the reset but he said it would happen again and limp when it warms up, I have booked it in for a scan elsewhere hopefully at same time they can get on ramp and take off underbelly to check for leaks, in the meantime IF it an electrical gremlin like intermittent low voltage that is causing this no idea if or how it would manifest on a scan....