Jet pump / transfer pump troubleshooting

[g300d]

So I stalled at a light today in the 4.6is. Felt like a fuel issue. Gauge a bit below 1/4.

Checked OBC and 0 fuel at the right side and about 14 liters on the left. Called a friend to bring me a couple of gallons of gas and ended with about 7 liters on the right. X started instantly.

Drove straight home to change cars while watching the OBC. Fuel level on the right was varying especially when going up the parking ramps but didnt drive long enough to verify jet pump operation.

Any tips on troubleahooting thia problem? Jet pump was replaced maybe 5 years ago.

[andrewwynn]

You just did all the necessary diagnostics. Jet pump is not working.

You can’t have zero right with anything in the left side when the pump is working.

More than likely just the o-ring has failed and with it being so young, your can likely fix it by just open, put the same o-ring back in and prop it with a zip tie to prevent it from opening back up.

I’ve done a few of these it’s always exactly the same. Look for my thread on the topic.

Search awr-fix in the title to find it.

There’s a small chance you aren’t getting enough pressure/volume from the main pump which can bring the same symptoms.

On e10 gas, life expectancy is 5000 hours. Multiply your avg mpg by 5000 and compare to your odometer. Eg: 14*5000=70,000 since the last fuel pump. If it's close or over that'll be far more likely candidate.

It's a little tedious but not terrible to pull the fuel sender from the left tank to confirm our deny early failure but the design has a fatal flaw that will kill every one.

Our 2001s both had this failure like clockwork.

The full diagnostic is: add a little more fuel and watch the right side. Or should settle to ≈ 1.4L on level ground steady state.

It should stay exactly the same until the left hits zero.

If the right starts to drop and especially gets below 1.0 jet pump is not pumping.

When it first starts, this might happen at 5-10L because the depth helps the pump.

Full failure, no pumping at all is about 27L.

It takes quite a lot of fuel flow going in circles from right to FPR back to left then to right to keep the jet pump happy so the electric pump failing will cause the same symptoms but it's much harder to diagnose and I've never found a spec of how much head the pump will make when blocked off or what the zero back pressure volume should be to test.

The usual test for electric pump failure is: pull the jet pump test for leaky o-ring, if that's good, check psi at the rail and confirm it's 50.0 no wavering.

While jet pump disconnected, you can turn the key on (pr start car if had start assist so no prime at key on) and watch the flow rate back from the FPR. It should be crazy pressure like a fire hose its supposed to be like 15 psi.

If that returning pressure is not strong and o-ring looks ok on the jet, it's usually the electric pump. The fuel filter can last 400,000 miles it's gigantic. FPR failure will usually lose pressure to the engine increasing the jet pump volume but there's a tiny chance it can fail where it will just close off to the pump itself and reduce the return flow but that's pretty theoretical I've never seen a mention of it actually happening.


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[g300d]

Thanks, Andrew, for that comprehensive reply!

One thing I think can cross off that list is the FPR and filter. Had a long crank problem and after putting on a check valve to no effect, put in a new OE fuel filter/FPR assy and replaced the rotted FPR hose. That cured the long crank to start problem. Was done less than 500 miles/2 months ago.