2000 4.4 Problems Starting

[texmln]

The CarChip does, in fact, record all data as advertised from my 2004 X5 3.0.

[supersteve]

Cool. I guess it is worth it then.

[supersteve]

Has anyone had any more problems? Since fixing the leak in the air/oil seperator, replacing the Crank Position Sensor and sealing the engine electronics box I have had no problems. Knock on wood.

[KCX5]

Wow. Just read all 9 pages.

I've had this on and off in my 01 X5 4.4, but only have 55k miles, somewhat worse lately. Its never died while driving.

So supersteve was replacing the Crank Position Sensor hard? Which of the 3 things do you think it was? I havent tried anything yet as it is fairly intermittent and not ever failed to start after turning the ignition off and right back on after the repeated fire/no start issue.

[supersteve]

KCX5,
We drove from York, PA to Hilton Head, SC and back over the Thanskgiving weekend. A total of over 1400 miles and over 24 hours driving (thanks to I-95) we had no problems. Today I must go to NJ and back a total of another 350 miles and 7 hours. Hopefully she will continue without problems.

If I had to pick the top three things I think is the cause of the problem I would list them this way.

1. Crank position sensor (around $100). Not hard to change. One allen head bolt and the electrical connector. It's located on the bell housing on the passenger side. While you're down there see # 2.
2. Check for oil leak by looking at the skid plate under the engine. The leak I had was from the drain of the air/oil separator drain line (6" piece of 1/4" hose about $2). The oil drained down the passenger side of the engine. BTW, the two big hoses running across the top of the engine that always wind up being replaced because they become gummy go to the top on the air/oil separator. Check them too.
3. Open the engine electronics box. Look for signs of water getting in. I found water stains in the connectors for the transmission controller (the box closest to the firewall with blue connections). Replace the blue relay in the box it is the DME relay(about $12). Seal all the rubber grommets with RTV. If you did have water intrusion, use a hair dryer to warm up all the electronics in the box. Not too hot, you just want to make sure there is no more water in there. Run a bead of RTV in the groove for the "E-Box" lid. Not a lot, just enough to create a seal. Close the box. Call it a day.

Happy Holidays,
Steve

[supersteve]

Made to NJ and back (400+ miles). Several stops and restarts. No problems. She starts first time everytime.

[sf_mike]

Steve-
Any chance you could post some pictures of the crank position sensor. That seems to be the most promising.

[supersteve]

Mike,
I don't have a web page to post pics. Also, I don't have a lift to be able to take a good picture of it. It's located @ about the five O'clock position on the bell housing. The bell housing is the big bell shaped casting inbetween the engine and the trans. If you go under the passenger side behind the front tire it is right above the sway bar (more correctly, the anti-sway bar). It has a single allen head bolt holding it in and it has a single electrical connector.

If you still can't find it send me an email and I'll take the best pics I can and sent them to your email.

Steve

[supersteve]

Mike,

I know you haven't gotten your parts yet; but, has anyone else tried the CPS? I continue to have no problems.

SS

[supersteve]

Still no problems. . .Anybody else?
Mike did you get the relay in yet?