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#1
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bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e53/
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#2
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Here is what I got
I have done a few things and a lot of reading over the past week.
The DME gets input from many places. It then in turn sends power to many places. On start up the Ambient Temp Sensor sends a signal via the instrument cluster to the DME to give it outside temp for starting. After the start cycle has completed the Mass Air sensor takes over. I found my Ambient Temp sensor stuffed up by the headlights. It is now properly mounted under the left front skirt. 15-20 degree temp difference with the headlights on. Also found the Oil Separator drain line leaking. Oil and Vacuum leak. Fixed with 5" peice of 1/2" hose. The Starter also sends a signal back to the DME. Pulled the cap of the connections on the starter. I found a lot of corrosion. Pulled off the connections cleaned them all up and reinstalled everything. By the way this is how I found the oil leak from the oil separator. The lines run down the passenger side of the engine and the oil followed them down to the skid plate. I then started thinking about the relays again. I think Mike's mechanic had the right idea about the relay. It was just the wrong relay. The DME powers the fuse carrier for engine electronics which then sends power to the Unloader Relay (green) which powers the Ignition Coils. If I read the mechanics summary correctly. He found no power the the ingition fuses. This means the DME is not sending power to the fuses. The DME also has it's own relay (blue). In the past I switched around all of the green relays to see if the problem moved to a different system. It didn't. I have now switched the two Blue relays in my engine compartment electrical box. Numbers 2 and 7 on the realOEM.com page. P/N 61366915327. They are the DME Relay and the Headlight Washer Relay. If the problem persists I would have to say it is either the Ignition Switch or the the Internal Switch for the DME in the Starter. Stay tuned |
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#3
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Great analysis! Can't wait for the verdict.
__________________
Mike F Current: 2017 Grand Cherokee HEMI 2017 Kawasaki ZX-14r 2017 Harley RG Ultra 2017 Harley Fatboy S |
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#4
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So Far, So Good
OK... So far so good after switching the DME relay with the Headlight washer relay (Blue relays in the Engine Electronics Box). Starting every time and no "auto shut offs."
I have also done some more reading. The connection between the DME and Starter is to hold the starter in Auto Start. It's not a signal to the DME. Also, the Engine Electronics Box has a cooling fan. It draws cabin air into the box for cooling. Like most electronics I suspect if the cooling fan is not working properly, neither will the electronics. The fan has a niffty feature which makes it easy to test. On start up the fan comes on for a moment to prevent the bearings from seizing over long term. Pull the cover, have someone else start her up and the fan should come on then shut off. If that doesn't work, the fan is supposed to have 12v to it at all times. The DME has a temp switch which gives the fan a ground to turn in on. Check for 12v on the plug to the fan. You can also put 12v to the fan to see if it spins. The only way I can think of to test the temp switch is to heat up the DME in some way. I just can't think of a safe way to do that. Any ideas? If the fan tests good and the problems come back, I can say it is an absolute, defininte, maybe that it's the Ignition switch.
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