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#1
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Had the dealership look at my brakes
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#2
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Before the "burn in" process will work the rotors should be scuffed with sandpaper on emory cloth. This needs to be done to break the glaze on the rotors for used brakes. It also needs to be done on new brakes to get all the rust inhibitor off the rotors.
The squeak is from the pads chattering in the calipers. Glazing is what causes chatter. The Burn in process puts brake material into the rotors to make them more effective. This makes the brake pressure less for the same braking effect. Less pressure = less heat = less glazing + brake dust. The vehicle should not be allowed to stop during the burn in. This can cause the pads to leave a chunk of brake material on the rotors which gives a pulse in the pedal and/or steering wheel. if that happens your have to start all over. To give you an answer. . .no the rotors are fine. They just need to be scuffed and burned in again. SS
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0O(llll)(llll)O0 2007 Suzuki Vinson 500 4X4 2007 Toro 6.5hp 2006 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (his) 2001 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (hers) 1994 Honda XR650L 1984 Honda XR80 "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Benjamin Franklin |
#3
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Thanks. I am going back down to my dealership this weekend, and I will have them check the brakes out again, and suggest what you said.
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#4
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Anytime.
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0O(llll)(llll)O0 2007 Suzuki Vinson 500 4X4 2007 Toro 6.5hp 2006 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (his) 2001 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (hers) 1994 Honda XR650L 1984 Honda XR80 "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Benjamin Franklin |
#5
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Brake Burn in? That sounds like a terrible thing to do. Material transfer is a major cause of rotor hot spots. I would recommend you do not try to get pad material to transfer to the rotor. I can almost guarantee that will make your pedal pulse, your rotors cool less even and lower your braking capacity.
I did a Google search and no data came up for brake burn in. If I am wrong can someone please post a link that would endorse this process. Thanks |
#6
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Cleaner,
you have mail. It's a very common and needed thing to do.http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...4133931AAjIqpW
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0O(llll)(llll)O0 2007 Suzuki Vinson 500 4X4 2007 Toro 6.5hp 2006 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (his) 2001 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (hers) 1994 Honda XR650L 1984 Honda XR80 "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Benjamin Franklin |
#7
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Thanks supersteve,
I am familiar with the brake bed in deals, They are not needed and almost impossible to reproduce with any consistence. TMD friction does not recommend it nor do any of the automakers. New car are also not subject to the process. I know the web forums are full of different ways to break in brake pads, but honestly I have yet to see any major brake manufacturer, Auto Manufacturer or Dealership take part in the ritual. |
#8
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So just use the coating on exterior of the brakes? Or what else can you do
to stop the sqeal?
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Mike F Current: 2017 Grand Cherokee HEMI 2017 Kawasaki ZX-14r 2017 Harley RG Ultra 2017 Harley Fatboy S |
#9
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Think about this. . .Do they want to sell you a lifelong part or do they want you to buy another set.
I can feel a difference in the brakes before and after burn in. It's something I have done for many years with no ill effects (other than the smell of burning brakes while doing it). Think of it as a way to break in the pads in an accelerated and controlled way. Heat cool heat cool heat cool done. It prevents glazing which its the worst case senario for brakes. Glazed brakes will wear at a highly accelerated rate because they are very ineffecient @ causing friction. This is especially true if the pads are chattering and/or squealing. The noise is the pads vibrating against the rotor. The vibration means they are not making full contact with the rotor @ all times. Less pad to rotor contact = increased pressure for same brake effect = increased wear = more money for the brake manufactures. For light aircraft it is a required step, to burn in the brakes, after brake replacement. Same brake companies much higher liability. Just my $.02
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0O(llll)(llll)O0 2007 Suzuki Vinson 500 4X4 2007 Toro 6.5hp 2006 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (his) 2001 BMW X5 4.4 ltr (hers) 1994 Honda XR650L 1984 Honda XR80 "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy." Benjamin Franklin |
#10
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Squeak is related to materials, very little else. A recurring squeak can be cured by changing the rotors and pads to OEM compounds, that’s Jurid pads in the front and Textar in the rear, a good Balo, ATE or Zimmerman rotor and 2 new caliper pins and the rubber bushing the pin rides in. Those pins and bushings can wear and cause the caliper to tilt and that is the likely cause if you are using the correct pads and rotors. BMW and TMD Friction spend hundreds of hours testing components to come up with the best blend. When consumers try to improve one area the result is a reduction in performance in another area.
Speaking from my experience, this is the best way to cure the problem, do not use any sprays or other snake oil when you install the pads, mount them dry and be 100% sure the pad shim is in place, that is your buffer between the brake pad “puck” and the caliper frame and piston. The shim will isolate the vibration to the rotor and pad friction surface and not let it transmit to the caliper where the squeak will develop. |
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