Torn Passanger outer boot

wpl11972 · #1 07-08-2007, 07:41 PM

Today while removing tires to apply neverseize compound so the rims don't stick to the rotors the last wheel i took off had grease all around. Sure enough the outer boot was torn. I searched the x5 world web site and forund a DIY. I have all the tools except when you remove the shaft he says the dust plate will need to be tac weld. i even have the same puller he has. should I go ahead and do it myself. I've done it on a 1980 vw scriocco and 1991 geo storm. Thanks Bill

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msammy · #2 07-08-2007, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpl11972

Today while removing tires to apply neverseize compound so the rims don't stick to the rotors the last wheel i took off had grease all around. Sure enough the outer boot was torn. I searched the x5 world web site and forund a DIY. I have all the tools except when you remove the shaft he says the dust plate will need to be tac weld. i even have the same puller he has. should I go ahead and do it myself. I've done it on a 1980 vw scriocco and 1991 geo storm. Thanks Bill

If you have the tools and you've done this type of work before, then I'd say go for it! I don't have all the tools, nor the patience (or eyes anymore!), so I found a good independent repair shop to replace the entire axle for $672. Three hours of labor at $75/hr was worth it for me. If your CV joint isn't making any noise yet, then just a boot repair is the way to go. Just be prepared for the unexpected (as usual with all repairs) and block out the entire day to prep/fix/test drive. Good luck, keep us all posted on your progress and by all means, post some pics!!!

wpl11972 · #3 07-10-2007, 08:24 PM

I will post some pics. I am going on vacation on sat. So when I get back I am going to get started. I talked to a local BMW mech. The only thing I really need to get is a crimp tool. I called my Snap-on guy he said the tool is around $33.00. The BMW dealer has the parts. Boot cost $60.00. Was told to replace the 36mm nut. not to reuse it. It only cost $16.00.

Zulu95 · #4 07-10-2007, 08:37 PM

Try an after market supplier. My boot/nut/grease only cost around $35.

wpl11972 · #5 07-10-2007, 09:26 PM

I was told not to use aftermarket. For reasons I forget. I purchase stuff from Bavauto.com. I will Call them tomorrow to see if they carry the parts.
Bavarian Auto Sports.

Also I was told to remove the engin cover and against the fire wall their is a hose that goes bad and might need to be replaced. He said it gets really soft.

Eric Giles · #6 07-11-2007, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpl11972

I was told not to use aftermarket. For reasons I forget. I purchase stuff from Bavauto.com. I will Call them tomorrow to see if they carry the parts.
Bavarian Auto Sports.

Also I was told to remove the engin cover and against the fire wall their is a hose that goes bad and might need to be replaced. He said it gets really soft.

You do realize a lot of the stuff that Bav Auto sells is aftermarket? I quit ordering from them after they sent me some cheap suspension parts a few years back. The boots are only about $30 or so each from the dealer-they should not be $60 each.

Do you have an air compressor and some air tools? If you don't, try to rent a small compressor and an air hammer tool with a punch attachment. That way once you remove the axle nut, you can spray some PB Blaster around the axle splines then the air hammer will pop the axle right out of the hub-and you won't have to worry about that dust cap. Make sure you have about a two to four pound hammer-you will most certainly need it.

This was the first job I did on my X5 the day after I got it home a couple of months ago, so if you have any questions feel free to ask and I will help you all I can.

wpl11972 · #7 07-11-2007, 07:09 AM

Yes I have some air tools. Impact and air rachet. I don't have an air hammer. I will look into that. One dealer told me 60.00 and called another dealer it was 53.53. I will see if they will lower their price a little. Thanks for your help.

hayaku · #8 07-11-2007, 12:56 PM

no need to tac weld... i should update it... i never got around to welding that dust sheild back and found that you don't need to. once the wheel is back on and bolted/torqued down, the pressure holds the shield in place and there is no rattle or movement.

as for the air hammer, you don't need it either as its not repetition of hits (air hammers hit fast but not powerful). A few strong whacks by a heavy hammer would be better.

Eric Giles · #9 07-11-2007, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hayaku

as for the air hammer, you don't need it either as its not repetition of hits (air hammers hit fast but not powerful). A few strong whacks by a heavy hammer would be better.

True a hammer can get the job done-however, if the axle is 'stuck' to the hub like my driver's side was, neither way will just knock it loose easily. I had to use a combination of both to get it loose on that side, with the air hammer being the one that finally got it off. On the passenger side, about five seconds with the air hammer and the axle popped right out. This is what the techs at my dealership use to remove the axles.

wpl11972 · #10 07-23-2007, 09:10 PM

Yesterday I started to remove the axle. The removal went pretty easy up till i had to knock the cv joint from the axle. Needed my son to help me. Took about 20 min. I used a brass punch to knock it off. Picked the parts up today at the dealer. Had a problem with the snap ring. Had to use the old one. I bought a cv boot pliers from the snap-on guy for $33.40. The new 36mm nut does not have a notch. What is the best way or tool to use to make the notch after its torque to 332 Foot lbs. Talking about that my torque wrench only goes up to 250 foot lbs..? I took to nut off with my impact gun it came off pretty easy.
I will post pics when im done. need help from my son to do that. Can't pull him from the computer.

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