Anyone done CV Boot Boot DIY?

[katit]

Originally Posted by we350z

Now I am getting even more confused. You did not take apart either cv joint for cleaning? I guess I wasn't planning on this either since I caught it early, and the outer boot is split on the bottom. It's harline, not a gaping hole so based on all this i doubt it is contaminated either. Just all the moli grease fell out. The other joint is intact so no cleaning necessary either, just refill the boot with grease when i put it back on.

I did take inner joint out so I can slide boots over. I'm talking about outer joint that still attached to the hub. You will have it all open, but you won't be able to actually take all balls out and clean/dry all pieces. If it's not contaminated and you caugt it early then you fine. Just wipe as much as you can with clean towels, pack with fresh grease and thats all.

Speaking of grease - no, this was "virgin" axle. Nobody touched it from a factory.

[we350z]

OK, I am just going to get both greases from auto parts store.

Is the list of tools needed accurate in the DIY too?

[katit]

You don't need puller and 36mm socket.

[we350z]

AutoZone only had a tiny tube of white lithium grease, they also didn't think that would be the right application for universal or constant velocity joints. The packaging made no mention of cv joints.

I ended up picking up the 1lb tub of Coastal Unixplex High Temperature Grease which is suitable for joints. It has 500F dropping point, and was the same price as the standard Moly. On the side it says it is made of "complex lithium grease" or something so I think it will do the job.

Anyway, I will see whats in mine when I pull the inner boot

Originally Posted by we350z

OK, I am just going to get both greases from auto parts store.

[we350z]

umm i forgot i dont have 3lb+ hammer, will standard claw hammer or the air hammer on my compressor do? Do i need this with the shortcut anyway?

Originally Posted by katit

You don't need puller and 36mm socket.

[katit]

I used my air hammer to knock inner part of axle out. Remove clip first.

[we350z]

cool, one less thing to buy. I had to go get the hex socket set, thats somthing that just seems to keep coming up on this car. The germans sure like their hex lol

[flyingmachine]

Originally Posted by katit

Skip #1, #8 and #30. Instead of #8 loose inner boot (big clamp)
In step 9 remove whole deal.

Important! (it is not in guide). I had to loosen subframe bolt for lower arm so I can swing it out (#6) Those bolts have to be tightened with car on a ground. When you finish with everything, push on fender few times so suspension sattles and then tighten those arms to subframe. If you tighten them on a car with suspension uncompressed - those bushings will wear out very quickly.

will you have enough clearance to tighten the bolts when the car is on the ground? or it requires a lift(4 posts one which lift on the wheels) to accomplish it?

[ungcj]

I made a puller by turing an old break rotor around and using a the type of puller that has 3 fingers with slots. I put the old rotor over the studs for the lug nuts and then bolted the puller to 3 of the studs with the lug nuts and then screwed in the puller screw bolt to the center of the axel. I think this is better than a gear puller if you have an old rotor. If you loosen the 36 mm hex nut before you jack the car off of the ground it is easier....you don;t need a second person to push on the brakes. good luck.

[katit]

Originally Posted by flyingmachine

will you have enough clearance to tighten the bolts when the car is on the ground? or it requires a lift(4 posts one which lift on the wheels) to accomplish it?

I had enough clearance when car was on my scissor lift ramps (3 inches) - I'm sure it could be fine on a ground