Crankcase Ventilation Freezing Up

[fepat55]

After getting my X back from the dealer I talked to the service manager about the problem. he indicated that the M62 engine had a permanent fix by rerouting the vent hoses under the valve covers but this required 15 hrs of work ( est cost 3,000.00) but with the N62( 2004 onward) engine this did not work . I have had heated hoses already on my engine and these did not work because if there was any spots not heated the hoses froze up. These were installed by BMW

This latest fix from BMW is to insulate all the hoses, valve from the crank, seperator and return lines .This fix was out from BMW in April'07 and i am one of the first ones around here to have this fix. I don't believe it will work either. I think the only fix is to heat the hoses. I will try however and will be going to Calgary ( about 300 km) next week. If it is 20 below I'll know whether the fix has worked. I think x5 in AK has it right. Can you install some pictures so I can see what you have done

[Phyber0ptik]

Originally Posted by X5HogTown

It is freezing condensation in the line or breather, no question. My travel pattern did not change over 6 years so I'm starting to believe the dealer was correct in prescribing 0W-40. I'm not sure why this makes a difference but I'm hoping for a 4th problem-free winter.

I had the same issue with the wife's X5 last year. I even posted some pictures up here of a cut open crank case vent hose so everyone can see the kind of gunk that builds up and freezes.

I ended up changing out the vent hoses, and switching to German Castrol 0-30, seems to have worked like a charm. No issues so far, even with the -25 we had down here in Calgary a few weeks ago.

To speak further about how short trips may affect this isssue, a couple of the tech's I spoke with indicated to me that short trips in cold weather will definitly exasperate the issue, due to the oil not getting hot enough to evaporate the built up moisture.

So just to be on the safe side, I make sure that ours get's a good thrashing once a day or so.

[drbgm]

I've been looking into this as well lately. Last year I replaced the valve cover gasket and only cleaned the hoses to the oil separator.

There is a "Cold Country Version" for the 3.0l PN 11-61-7-534-237 with insulated hoses and valve.

Local dealer in Winnipeg is doing a lot of them as people have been buying cars from the US that aren't neccesarily fitted with this part. They also want to change the steel dipstick tube?? and the hose from the valve to the dipstick, as a minimum. Checked with a dealer in Minneapolis and they carry the parts and are doing the upgrades as well.

[fepat55]

phyberoptik: I note that you are in Calgary. I am in Edmonton, Your comment about using 0W30 is interesting because the service manager @ Bavaria here in Edmonton suggested the same thing. Do you really think this would help? I have had all the upgraded tubes and insulated lines installed and still my lines freeze up. I use 5 W 40 oil currently and I also run my engine long enough so that the oil is warm but still the same problem. Any thoughts?

[Phyber0ptik]

Originally Posted by fepat55

phyberoptik: I note that you are in Calgary. I am in Edmonton, Your comment about using 0W30 is interesting because the service manager @ Bavaria here in Edmonton suggested the same thing. Do you really think this would help? I have had all the upgraded tubes and insulated lines installed and still my lines freeze up. I use 5 W 40 oil currently and I also run my engine long enough so that the oil is warm but still the same problem. Any thoughts?

The 0-30 is a thinner oil than a 5-40 anyways but I think that the trick to this is the thinner oil on startup. A 0 weight won't take as long to warm up in the cold, which in turn makes sure that even on shorter trips the oil reaches full temp, which in turn evaporates the moisture in the oil before it has a chance to condense and freeze in the crankcase vent hoses.

Well atleast thats my understanding of the situation.

[fepat55]

Phyberoptik; Where did you get the German 0W30 oil??

[flatlander]

Mechanic said that this happens on BMWs (and Mercedes too). He said that without positive crankcase ventilation, the oil will push through the weakest spot. He did not know of any fix that would help however, except for allowing the oil to reach it's running temp (around 180F he said), which means longer trips.

Incidentally I talked with my Kansas City BMW dealer (Baron) about covering the repair (my passengers side valve cover leaked suddenly). They would not cover it and they said that they had no knowledge of this being a problem (no TSB, no campaigns, etc.). I even showed them many of the posts from X5World on this issue, but to no avail.

The repair cost me $550 at local German specialists shop.

[Phyber0ptik]

Originally Posted by fepat55

Phyberoptik; Where did you get the German 0W30 oil??

I get mine over at PartSource. Just look for the Castrol stuff, then find the 0W30. Make sure you read the back of the bottle, it will say "Made in Germany" on it. Only seems to come in liter bottles. I really should find myself a wholesaler and buy it by the 60 gallon drum, with 7 BMW's in the family I seem to go through the stuff like its water...

[fepat55]

Thanks for the location. I also have a bevy of bimmers. The 530xi touring doesn't have the same problem with the crankcase but i notice that the engine bay must be better insulated because I the engine stays warmer longer after i shut it off. This may be the reason
I will contact the Castrol Rep to see where i can get the 0W 30 and post it to you if I find a better source What was the cost at part source?
I only encounter the problem when the temperature hits minus 20. Wonder Why??

[Phyber0ptik]

I can't remember exactly, but I think it's about 10 bucks a bottle tax in.

Let me know what the castrol rep says, would be nice to find this stuff cheaper.