problems galore - brakes and more

[we350z]

No - everything was even. I'm going to check everything out tomorrow.

Originally Posted by flyinhi79

Did you notice it pulling any time before you changed the brakes?

[Kamel Jockey]

I feel your pain man, I'm in the same boat as you right now. I just replaced my pads and rotors last month and I'm starting to get a vibration during braking. I took the car to my mechanic last week to have all the front suspension parts replaced (ie. control arms, tie rods, sway bar end links, ball joints) because I thought they might have something to do with the vibration and although they did reduce it its still there. While doing the work last week I get a call from him telling me my passenger side cv boot is torn to shit and grease is everywhere... great. I just replaced the drivers side 3 months ago and now I got to do it all over again.

[E61Silver]

Sorry to hear about your problems, don't let get you down, once you make your repairs it should be good for a while.

How long do brakes last, I have 34,000 and they seem fine?

[curtin34]

I dont know where you got your cv boots from but FCP Groton got them for cheap and they are the same as BMW dealer, but way cheaper I bought both sides for under $250.00

[we350z]

Uhh... you can get a kit from Crevier or Morristown for like $35 per side...

Originally Posted by curtin34

I dont know where you got your cv boots from but FCP Groton got them for cheap and they are the same as BMW dealer, but way cheaper I bought both sides for under $250.00

[FSETH]

we350z, I am no expert, but it sounds like there is something wrong with some work/breaking in you did on the brakes. If it drove and stopped fine before your brake job, then something may be installed incorrectly or not torqued to the correct specs. If you can't figure it out, have the car inspected by a good indy shop or dealer and have them flush the brake fluid.

Also, if you did hold the brakes when they were hot, some pad material may have transferred to the rotor, which can cause vibration and grabbing issues. If you are sure all of the bolts are correctly torqued, then try the bedding process again to remove any debris from the rotor. That may help.

Good luck.

[we350z]

Cool. I will do as prescribed Would I be able to visually see the debris on the rotor? If everything checks out otherwise I may just try bedding procedure again. If all else fails and this behavior continues after 200-300mi point I will likely do a flush and/or have it inspected by my indy mechanic.

Originally Posted by FSETH

we350z, I am no expert, but it sounds like there is something wrong with some work/breaking in you did on the brakes. If it drove and stopped fine before your brake job, then something may be installed incorrectly or not torqued to the correct specs. If you can't figure it out, have the car inspected by a good indy shop or dealer and have them flush the brake fluid.

Also, if you did hold the brakes when they were hot, some pad material may have transferred to the rotor, which can cause vibration and grabbing issues. If you are sure all of the bolts are correctly torqued, then try the bedding process again to remove any debris from the rotor. That may help.

Good luck.

[FSETH]

Originally Posted by we350z

Cool. I will do as prescribed Would I be able to visually see the debris on the rotor? If everything checks out otherwise I may just try bedding procedure again. If all else fails and this behavior continues after 200-300mi point I will likely do a flush and/or have it inspected by my indy mechanic.

I don't think you would be able to see pad residue on the rotor in all cases. I am not positive though. Someone who knows better may chime in on this one.

I just keep going back to the fact that if your X was stopping fine before the brakes change, then something you did must be off a little bit. I changed all 4 rotors and pads and broke them in with Dave Z's recommendation and everything worked like a champ. No noise, vibration or pulling at all. I used Centric rotors though, they don't have that think zinc coating on them. It could be a crazy coincedence and you have an issue with a suspension component, but I would stick with the brakes first.

When you do the rebedding process, you can use the brakes after you do the 8 (or whatever #) stops, just don't sit at a stoplight the brakes held. That is when the pad material will transfer. You can also use the steptronic trans mode to downshift and instead of braking.

[we350z]

OK. I don't recall holding the brakes because I was cognicent of the fact that this transfer may occur. I should have however used ebrake/N and downshifting. I may not have allowed sufficient time on highway for cool down (only about 10 minutes). The brakes did still seem very hot when i put the car in the garage, but then again its Phoenix.

You are right about it stopping fine before i changed the brakes. Something must be off, I agree. In my mind it can be one of two things:

1) something in front not torqued right (i.e. carrier bracket buckling)
2) something uneven on rotor/not bedded in properly yet

Regardless. I need to jack the front up to do a temporary saran wrap fix on the CV boot until my replacement part comes in later this week. I am going to do a full inspection. Calipers seem to be on pretty good though when I try pushing them with my hand.

Originally Posted by FSETH

I don't think you would be able to see pad residue on the rotor in all cases. I am not positive though. Someone who knows better may chime in on this one.

I just keep going back to the fact that if your X was stopping fine before the brakes change, then something you did must be off a little bit. I changed all 4 rotors and pads and broke them in with Dave Z's recommendation and everything worked like a champ. No noise, vibration or pulling at all. I used Centric rotors though, they don't have that think zinc coating on them. It could be a crazy coincedence and you have an issue with a suspension component, but I would stick with the brakes first.

When you do the rebedding process, you can use the brakes after you do the 8 (or whatever #) stops, just don't sit at a stoplight the brakes held. That is when the pad material will transfer. You can also use the steptronic trans mode to downshift and instead of braking.

[FSETH]

Originally Posted by we350z

OK. I don't recall holding the brakes because I was cognicent of the fact that this transfer may occur. I should have however used ebrake/N and downshifting. I may not have allowed sufficient time on highway for cool down (only about 10 minutes). The brakes did still seem very hot when i put the car in the garage, but then again its Phoenix.

You are right about it stopping fine before i changed the brakes. Something must be off, I agree. In my mind it can be one of two things:

1) something in front not torqued right (i.e. carrier bracket buckling)
2) something uneven on rotor/not bedded in properly yet

Regardless. I need to jack the front up to do a temporary saran wrap fix on the CV boot until my replacement part comes in later this week. I am going to do a full inspection. Calipers seem to be on pretty good though when I try pushing them with my hand.

You could also check the caliper guide pins (if you removed them) and the rattle clips???