problems galore - brakes and more

we350z · #1 06-13-2008, 10:32 PM

I've just about had it. 2 more problems i found today

I was driving home after work and had to hit the brakes fairly hard on the freeway. I noticed that the steering wheel jereked a little bit to the right then stopped. This is not noticed when gradually applying the brakes under normal conditions. I was able to repeat this a couple more times by tapping the brakes quickly.

I just recently (last week) replaced my old worn out rotors with new OEM ones and likewise my old OEM pads with Axxiss deluxe.

I did the bedding procedure. Everything seemed fine, but maybe I just didn't notice this then. I was getting a lot of noise from the pads scraping the rotors but I have driven about 100mi since then and the noise seems to have gone away. Is this at all normal being that I have not driven on the new brakes much yet?

So after I parked the car I started exploring a little more - to my shagrin I found that my passenger side CV boot had torn pretty bad and thrown grease all over the inside of the wheel, great. Can't wait to do this job again... I just replaced the driver side not long ago. The apple doesn't fall to far from the tree. They weren't kidding when they told me to just replace both sides. I knew it was going to go sometime soon because i could see it starting to crack - I was just hoping to go a little longer on it lol. This must have happened today.

I don't think the brake issue and cv boot things are related. I'll probably check the wheel lug nut torque first, then work my way around each wheel to inspect the rotors and each caliper to make sure the pads are sitting even on the rotors.

The brake pedal feels pretty normal, maybe a little on the soft side.

Can anyone please help me out here or steer me im the right direction? I'm not totally sure what I should be looking for in regards to the braking problem. I'm guessing since the wheel jerks to the right then the problem is probably in the front driver side wheel? I would think that this might be due to the passenger side caliper getting more pressure and gripping the rotor better? I can see the zinc has worn off the rotors on both sides tho? Ugh I am so frustrated and the CV boot was just the fucking cherry on top.

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mrbmwx5 · #2 06-13-2008, 10:37 PM

we350z call me if you still have my #

swissfrank · #3 06-13-2008, 10:55 PM

it sounds like the caliper braket may be coming loose and binding on the rotor. Especially when applying the brakes. Since you had to remove the braket when replacing the rotor, this could be the reason one wheel is binding (pulling). Check it out, as this is not a safe circumstance!

primetime · #4 06-13-2008, 11:14 PM

Thrust arm bushings are probably also starting to weaken....

we350z · #5 06-14-2008, 12:00 AM

Thanks guys I am going to check the fronts out and re-torque carrier brackets and guide bolts but the pads might not be totally bedded just yet. I also didn't realize that I should avoid holding the brake at stops during the break-in/bedding period for the first 200-300mi (however I was aware of this during bedding procedure). I guess this can warp the rotors and make them uneven from the heat. So I will try to put in N and use the e-brake at stops and avoid hard braking for a little while. I thought everything was set after doing the initial bedding procedure. There is still some residual zinc shit on it as well - but its obvious that both sides are compressing and scraping it off. Also checked that there are no kinked lines and no flluid leaking from the calipers or brake lines. Hopefully everything will get situated if it's not already. I'll be worried about it if its still doing this after the initial break-in period is over. I guess it's a good sign that there is no jerking/shimmying/wobbling when doing light breaking on the streets.

Won't hurt to check brake fluid level as well, perhaps I am low.

we350z · #6 06-14-2008, 12:01 AM

Can inspect these and tell? Car has 68Kmi but of course is almost 9 years old too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by primetime

Thrust arm bushings are probably also starting to weaken....

steed77 · #7 06-14-2008, 07:40 AM

I would also flush the brake fluid. You may have a tiny air bubble. I suspect that may be the reason for the panic stop pulling. I have seen this a few times. I use a Motive power bleeder and love the thing.

CV joint, that looks like a tad of work.

Butt · #8 06-14-2008, 12:58 PM

Very, very important, you must replace both sides at the same time to avoid the problem. My local BMW dealer advised that after a friend of mine experienced the same problems as you. By replacing just one side the waer and tear is uneven and you end up having to replace the cv's again.

we350z · #9 06-14-2008, 03:36 PM

Well it's going to end up about the same time. I have probably less than 400mi on the driver side.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butt

Very, very important, you must replace both sides at the same time to avoid the problem. My local BMW dealer advised that after a friend of mine experienced the same problems as you. By replacing just one side the waer and tear is uneven and you end up having to replace the cv's again.

flyinhi79 · #10 06-15-2008, 02:24 AM

Did you notice it pulling any time before you changed the brakes?

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