Official 3.0 Diesel Engine Issues & Comments Thread

[Nipps]

I have a 2003 X5 3.0D X5 and have a CR chip sitting in my glove box to fix to it but cannot get at the connection on the common rail without removing the engine cover. Problem is the cover is very difficult to remove (couldn't do it).
Has anyone fitting one of these chips and how did you do it?
Did you do it without removing the engine cover, and how?
Has anyone removed their engine cover and how did you do it?

[blueagle]

Welcome Nipps ! How about posting some pics of your X5 ?

[thto]

Hi Nipps

You need to take off the air intake , the central bit above the engine in the bulkhead.
There are threads on here showing you how to do it. It is quite easy.

One thing about putting a chip on, it will throw all sorts of errors when the 5 is tested on an analyser, OK when it running well, but a night mare if you are looking for a specific problem.

Mine had one on when I got it and the chip masked a cam sensor problem until I removed it. (thats how I know you need to take off the air intake.....).

Also I have not seen any difference in performance since taking the chip off!
Hope this helps.

[weirluo]

here in Australia I know a few people have put on DPchips and they declared immediate performance gain.

mine 2004 x5 MY05 3.0D sport has almost 70000km on the clock. the engine is loud when the turbo is pushed running, but the over all performance is excellent with about 9L/100 km for city driving. there was a gasket problem which led to minor oil leak, but was easily fixed.

very happy x5 3.0D owner.

one complaint, the sport suspension is very stiff!!!

[KamilFKH]

Originally Posted by thto

Hi All

I am having some intermittent starting problems with my diesel x5.
Starts on the button every morning rain or shine, or whenever has not run for several hours.

At other times it can be problematic, sometimes taking 5-10 minutes to start after cranking every minute or so.

when driving, it is sweet and no lumpy idling.


I purchased a peake code reader and for those familiar with them, this is what I found.

From 'fc' (fault check mode) press 'go' and reader shows '52' then 'c' then 'ie' then '25' then returns to '--' (which I believe means no more codes found).

I understand this to be a code of ie25.

I cannot find this code anywhere in the accompanying peake booklet, do I need to convert it?

I suspect the starting issue is heat related on a resistor type / sensor item as when cold the car starts like a dream. Only when warm and used several times in the day do I get the problem.

Anyone help?

Thanks

Hi,
The problem with quick finding what is problem is with the codereader fault code interpretation. If You use another tool (e.g. some OBD2 scanner with larger display or PC connected) You would find that the code is not ie25 but 1E25 and then after a short Inet search You would find it means "Überwachung Drehzahlgeber/Cam Shaft position sensor". I had the same issue on my 3.0D car from time I bought it but the problem (car won´t start) occured only when coolant temperature was exactly at the point when the gauge needle left the blue area. At first, without any diagnostic adapter, I thought it´s something to do with immobiliser that does not allow car to be started, but after reading all car´s fault memories I found this fault. About 82€ for the sensor solved the problem.

One more thing concerning to this 1E25 fault. If it is stored in Your DDE 4.0 fault memory, the DDE control unit falls into, let me say, "emergency" mode causing some parts of the engine to be switched off of operation:
-the turbocharger exhaust gas flaps are not operated
-the amount of fuel injected is limited to some value
-swirl flaps in mainfold are not operated and remain closed

and maybe some more restriction, for full list I should search WDS where the description is located. This all causes the engine to perform much worse with lower torque, lower max power, lower dynamic, higher fuel consumption all this causes poor performance of EGS (automatic gearbox control unit) shifting "few hundreds revs" later (e.g. at 4t instead of at 2,5t when trying to overtake etc.) I reckon that the overall performance of my 184HP M57 3.0D engine was limited to value somewhere around 100-120HP so It felt like You have a totally clogged air filter or pulled handbrake.

Do not forget to erase this fault from DDE for sure. I did it and then I thought I have a brand new car . Awesome power, huge torque. Of course I get used to it soon but the first impression from this change was very intense .

Cheers, Kamil

[weirluo]

discovered some air intake whistling when I push the pedal (not too hard, around 2000rpm), it's x5 MY05 3.0D sport with almost 70000km on the clock, any opinions why it whistles? and the engine shakes when idle? is this typical diesel engine behavior or just something has got wrong?

[KamilFKH]

Originally Posted by weirluo

discovered some air intake whistling when I push the pedal (not too hard, around 2000rpm), it's x5 MY05 3.0D sport with almost 70000km on the clock, any opinions why it whistles? and the engine shakes when idle? is this typical diesel engine behavior or just something has got wrong?

Hi,
Hard to say remotely like this, when one do not see the car physically but there is a quick and maybe useful guide here:

This whistling can have several causes.
- One can be incorrectly sealed intake tubing a) sucking in the air between air filter and turbocharger, b) blowing out the presurized air between turbocharger and cylinder head.
- Another can be slightly bent turbocharger´s intake turbine flaps a) after unfiltered air with any contaminant entered into the turbocharger b) after taking improper care of turbocharger (immediately reving engine high when cold, stalling engine and not allowing it to cool down after high load or fast driving, etc) causing too big free play in TC axle sleeves and allowing then flaps to touch TC housing. Bent flaps rotating over 100 thousands RPMs create dull whistle.

The engine should not shake much when idling. If You put a glass with water on it it should not move or spill at all but You will see a small waves on water surface of course. Find the root cause of the imbalance, first check if the engine runs smooth (all cylinders operates) and check the engine (and the gearbox as well) rubber mounting (see http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...76&hg=22&fg=05 #8). I had all of them damaged and it caused not big but quite uncomfortable vibrations during a drive and it shaked with a car heavily when I turn the engine off. Check vacuum hoses and electr. valve too (#11-17).

Good idea as well is to find a skilled friend that can help You locate and fix the problem. This "something is whistling there" remote fault finding can sometimes be totaly incorrect.

Cheers, Kamil

[weirluo]

Thanks, Kamil.

Not sure if I can really locate the problem with my little mechanical knowledge. But it's good to learn what are the potentially causing problems. I would perhaps get a dealer the check it out if I can't figure out tonight. still have three years warranty to go. lol

[KamilFKH]

Originally Posted by weirluo

Thanks, Kamil.

Not sure if I can really locate the problem with my little mechanical knowledge. But it's good to learn what are the potentially causing problems. I would perhaps get a dealer the check it out if I can't figure out tonight. still have three years warranty to go. lol

You are welcome,

if the problem is causing the TC, it is good to have it replaced in warranty as new one costs about $2000 incl. VAT plus about a day of work and over 7 qt of Longlife-04 oil. I better bought refurbished from Germany (new parts inside, old just housing) for 1/4 price and replaced it over a weekend by myself. It is good to have BMW TIS to hand for torque values and working instruction as not all steps to follow are intuitive.

You usually never get the user guide with Car´s user guide how to drive with turbochargers. Some 3rd party autoalarms offer an option in setup for "turbo after-cooling" that lets the engine run for a minute or two (gearbox in neutral for manual or in "P" for automatic tranny) after key removal and car locking to allow TC to cool down. This option is not available with BMW antitheft car system as I know.

Kamil

[HSV8]

Another Aussie found you guys cause my 04 30dsport is running like a dog and now wont start at all obd shows a million codes but the main one looks to be cam sensor by what I can take form others experiences the other codes are as a result.

Will change this and see what happens

Had the car since new done 190k ( live in the country ) never missed a beat till now first became hard to start then was ok then ran rough then ok then died completely after limping home one night when it just started losing power and sounded to be running on 2 cylinders