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  #11  
Old 07-11-2008, 11:17 PM
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Purchased pads and rotors from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com , Paid roughly $400 USD. I then went to Meineke and they charged me $140 to change the brakes. I figured $540 was much cheaper than the $1200 BMW wanted. Unfortunatley I still have my ABS and Breakl ights on. Meineke said to bring it back in if the lights don't go off. It's been a month and they are still on. Taking it to them on Monday.

Does anyone know of a inexpensive handheld computer to hook to our vehicles to diagnose these lights?
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2008, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
Purchased pads and rotors from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com , Paid roughly $400 USD. I then went to Meineke and they charged me $140 to change the brakes. I figured $540 was much cheaper than the $1200 BMW wanted. Unfortunatley I still have my ABS and Breakl ights on. Meineke said to bring it back in if the lights don't go off. It's been a month and they are still on. Taking it to them on Monday.

Does anyone know of a inexpensive handheld computer to hook to our vehicles to diagnose these lights?
If it is the brake pad lining warning, you don't need a computer. You just need to do the brake job properly. The brake pad thickness sensors are single use. If they come on, the sensors need replacing. Take it back to your mechanic and ask him to finish the job. He will need 1 or 2 BMW OEM sensors, and less time than he needed to change the brake pads to install them. After that, the light goes off automatically.
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2008, 09:52 PM
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New ones were installed. I am sure one of those could have been bad. I have 2 more new ones. However, the check break pad lining light is not on. The Red brake light and Yellow triangle warning light are on still. This shouldn't be caused by the break pad sensor, should it?
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  #14  
Old 07-14-2008, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg
New ones were installed. I am sure one of those could have been bad. I have 2 more new ones. However, the check break pad lining light is not on. The Red brake light and Yellow triangle warning light are on still. This shouldn't be caused by the break pad sensor, should it?
No, it is more likely that the fluid is low, or there is an imbalance between the different circuits, caused by pressing the brake pedal when the brake job was being completed. Looks like it needs bleeding, recognizing that with the BMW ABS module you may need the BMW computer to cycle the ABS valves as the system is bled, to get the air out. Start with the mechanic that did the work, but realize that it may cost more than the labour on your brake job did to repair it.
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  #15  
Old 07-14-2008, 09:59 AM
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Just replaced mine yesterday! What timing

Great timing, my warning came up last week, too! I purchased rear OEM pads, sensor and rotors from the dealer for ~300.00 (the dealer replaced the fronts a few months back so I know it was not them, at great expense I might add). I used the instructions from this site to replace the pads. The rotors were still at about 21mm which was well above the 10.5mm I read on this site for minimum thickness. For the record, My 2004 4.4 has 76k.

The sensor "looked" ok so I reused it, but the "check brake lining" and red "brake" idot light won't go out. I was under the impression that the "lining" message was illuminated when the sensor makes contact with the rotor. Is this true, or does the sensor go off when the rotor wears through and creates an open circuit? Is the sensor shot once the "check lining" light comes on?

Also, is the red "brake" light mot likley related? TIA
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  #16  
Old 07-14-2008, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhb
The sensor "looked" ok so I reused it, but the "check brake lining" and red "brake" idot light won't go out. I was under the impression that the "lining" message was illuminated when the sensor makes contact with the rotor. Is this true, or does the sensor go off when the rotor wears through and creates an open circuit? Is the sensor shot once the "check lining" light comes on?
As described above, the brake lining warning is driven by a one-time use sensor. It wears through when it contacts the rotor, and you will have the light on until you replace it with a new one.
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  #17  
Old 07-14-2008, 01:56 PM
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Question what pads do you prefer?

Ok so i been doing some research and these seem like the pads i am going to buy, any one many any experience with them?

2002-2003 BMW X5 - EBC Front Left And Right Brake Pad Set - Redstuff - Ceramic

Price: $117.57


Part Number: E35DP31472C
MFR#: DP31472C
"EBC REDSTUFF CERAMIC 3000 SERIES BRAKE PAD SET -- Made From High Quality Kevlar Fibre-Based Compound That Is Enhanced With Ceramic Particles, Engineered For Highly Tuned And High Horsepower Cars, Lasts Longer, Brakes Better And Quieter Than Pre-Ceramic Compound Pads, Best For High-Speed Spirited Street Driving And Heavy Duty Braking, Designed To Minimize Brake Dust Up To 50% Better Than Standard Pads, Features Brake-In Coating For Super Quick Pad Bed-In And Center Line Slots To Prevent Heat Expansion Cracks, Set Includes Left And Right Brake Pads, Recommended For Cars With 200 Brake Horsepower And above
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2008, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL
It wears through when it contacts the rotor, and you will have the light on until you replace it with a new one.
Darn! One more trip into the wheel well!
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2008, 09:24 PM
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The 1st thing I would check is for a loose or disconnected brake sensor, they disconnect all the time. Every time you change pads always have new sensors installed. If its not the sensors hopefully its just pads, good rotors and pads are not cheap for the Xs.
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  #20  
Old 10-23-2011, 06:41 PM
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To turn off the brake light warning after changing your pads:
  1. OPEN THE DRIVERS DOOR - LEAVE IT OPEN
  2. TURN THE KEY TO POSITION 2
  3. WAIT FOR THE LIGHT TO GO OUT
  4. If you are lucky the light will go off the next time you start the car and stay off.

The sensors may be a one time use item but I've used them more than once and they work fine, as long as you replace them before the light comes on. They cost about $25.00 at the stealership. My 2003 X5 has one in front, one in the rear.

I just did all four rotors and pads for a whopping $260 and $8.00 of that was for a 6 pack of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale that I consumed while doing the job. The first rotor + pads took an hour (because I was cleaning all the dirty parts) the other three took less than 1/2 hour each.
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