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  #1  
Old 08-29-2008, 03:30 PM
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german castrol 0w-30

I know here we go again with the oil Q's but I need to ask. I'm about to change own oil b/c I really don't know what's coming out of the gun at the dealer. From what I've read the m1 0w-40 and gc 0w-30 have similiar operating temperature thicknesses, the 40 on the thin side and the 30 on the thick side. Being they're both 0 weight at start up is one thicker/thinner than the other? Is the gc 0w-30 safe to use for chicago summers b/c I'm really not sure if I want to bounce b/t oil brands. Any negative comments about the gc 0w-30?? thank you!!
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  #2  
Old 08-29-2008, 05:30 PM
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Jeesh these "oil" hand wringing wonderments go on and on and...

The net stuff I peruse on the various brands/viscosities, etc.
all seem to offer up some conflicting opins. Most of the data
is inane, imo, for normal driving conditions, and much of the
comparison data seems to vary depending upon the test/"expert"
opin site. It can really make one's hair hurt after awhile...

Many here run the 5W-30 of some synth brand. Some of us run
0W-40 as it seems to offer exc. cold start and that higher warm/hot
running top number.

Chicago is not Africa or Barrow, AK; I think either would be fine.
It's an oil/filter change in a car that is rarely, if ever, pushed to its
limit, engine-wise. I'd worry about other stuff; oil "quality", one oil
"viscosity vs another", "which brand", and "3k mile changes" are no
longer high on my list of concerns.
GL,mD
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Last edited by motordavid; 08-29-2008 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 08-29-2008, 08:27 PM
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da numbers simply refer to safe operating temps. Colder temps need lower 1st #(looser in the cold), hotter temps need higher 2nd number(more durable in the heat). Usually, you will run a different oil for winter and summer.
Too high a frist number in the winter will result in poor circulation upon starting and can lead to premature wear or more immediate short term damage. ( hard lesson learned durning a winter @ 10,000 ft)
Too low a 2nd number in the summer can lead to premature breakdown from the heat and eventual damage.
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Old 08-29-2008, 10:08 PM
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I've read the German Castrol is not actually that "thin" as the rating suggests. It is one of the most highly rated motor oils out there; I use it myself on the X3, and also for the in-between changes on the 325i.

I cannot think of any place in the Continental US where the 0W-30 wouldn't work. You don't live in the Arctic, nor the Sahara Desert.
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Old 08-29-2008, 11:38 PM
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GC is at the more viscous end of the SAE 30wt range. Most M1 oils are at the less viscous range for their respective weights. End result is that both these oils will be comparable in opertaing temp viscosity.

You don't need to run different oils winter and summer.

Both oils are great and will serve you well. Buy whichever one is readily available at a good price. Note about GC Castrol: just because it says 0W-30 doesn't mean it's GC. The stores also carry the North American 0W-30 which is different. Look at the back of the bottle and make sure it's got 'Made in Germany' on it.
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Old 08-30-2008, 11:10 AM
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Thanks guys, changed oil last night. Interesting find: found a piece of fan blade about 5 inches long when my waterpump seized last year 70,000 mi. Approx. how many miles should I replace before it happens again??
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Old 08-30-2008, 06:26 PM
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hey.

Youse guyz gotta read dis........
http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/m...ion-101-a.html
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Old 08-30-2008, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by realchef
Yes, we've read that.
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