Transmission kick/jerk b/t 1st and 2nd under load

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by Weasel

Sounds like the harsh shifting problem is when the fluid is still cold, thus thicker viscosity. A software update would change some of the shifting parameters and reset the adaptations. You should be able to reset the basic transmission adaptations yourself. Turn the key on leaving engine off and press the gas pedal all the way down past the downshift click point and hold it for about 30 seconds. You may hear the transmisswion making some noises at this time which would be solenoids operating and such. After that the shifting adaptations should be reset and will re-learn to your driving style when you drive it again.

Good luck and hope that works for ya!

I have the same symptoms of harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop, but it's when the oil is warm (210*) not cold. I tried the transmission reset you mentioned above, I didn't hear any noise during the 30+ seconds. We'll see if the reset works, i'll report back.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by CleanIsFast

I have the same symptoms of harsh 2-1 downshift when coming to a stop, but it's when the oil is warm (210*) not cold. I tried the transmission reset you mentioned above, I didn't hear any noise during the 30+ seconds. We'll see if the reset works, i'll report back.

Well the symptom you describe is well known and documented on this forum. Try the easy things first that don't require replacing/rebuilding the trans. Things like the trans service with lifeguard fluid. Check to see if any codes exist. A fellow friend of mine had a torque convertor code and had to replace it. It fixed the problem but many others had to replace the trans. Happy diagnosis. Do you have an oxford green M5? If so are you on the M5 board? What ID do you go by on the M5 board? I feel like i know you already?

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

Well the symptom you describe is well known and documented on this forum. Try the easy things first that don't require replacing/rebuilding the trans. Things like the trans service with lifeguard fluid. Check to see if any codes exist. A fellow friend of mine had a torque convertor code and had to replace it. It fixed the problem but many others had to replace the trans. Happy diagnosis. Do you have an oxford green M5? If so are you on the M5 board? What ID do you go by on the M5 board? I feel like i know you already?

Yup I've been reading up a lot on xoutpost. Went out for a quick drive today, so far so good, I didn't drive long enough though for the temp to get up to 210. Wish the 4.6 ran a little cooler like the M5's. I am looking into the aftermarket oil cooler option.

Yes I do have an Oxford Green M5, and yes I am on M5board. Username: jdauria. I joined xoutpost a long time ago when I was initially looking for an X5 and decided to just utilize the same one instead of creating a new one. I am fairly active on M5board, so you might have seen my name floating around there a bit. Not many Oxfords on the board.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by CleanIsFast

Yup I've been reading up a lot on xoutpost. Went out for a quick drive today, so far so good, I didn't drive long enough though for the temp to get up to 210. Wish the 4.6 ran a little cooler like the M5's. I am looking into the aftermarket oil cooler option.

Yes I do have an Oxford Green M5, and yes I am on M5board. Username: jdauria. I joined xoutpost a long time ago when I was initially looking for an X5 and decided to just utilize the same one instead of creating a new one. I am fairly active on M5board, so you might have seen my name floating around there a bit. Not many Oxfords on the board.

Well alright Johnathan we have spoke before especially when you were seeking the Birch Anthracite wood for the M5. Plus you had a custom tune on the M5 that we had talked back and forth about. Let me know if you get a tune on the 4.6is. I would be interested in getting your feedback.

[CleanIsFast]

Originally Posted by X53Jay4.8is

Well alright Johnathan we have spoke before especially when you were seeking the Birch Anthracite wood for the M5. Plus you had a custom tune on the M5 that we had talked back and forth about. Let me know if you get a tune on the 4.6is. I would be interested in getting your feedback.

Yup I remember speaking with you.

I won't be getting a tune for the 4.6is until the transmission issue is resolved, no need to string out the motor/trans on a dyno getting a tune. I'd only consider it if the tune helped the transmission jerk.

[X53Jay4.8is]

Originally Posted by CleanIsFast

Yup I remember speaking with you.

I won't be getting a tune for the 4.6is until the transmission issue is resolved, no need to string out the motor/trans on a dyno getting a tune. I'd only consider it if the tune helped the transmission jerk.

I hear you. Got to get the basics right before any stretch mods come into effect. I had a series of leaks on mine, did the timing chain guides, chain, suspension, headliner, evaporator replacement and other misc repairs to get her in shape or the next phase. Now I am on just on some aesthetic upgrades to compliment her beauty.

[CleanIsFast]

So apparently the whole; position 2, foot pedal down 30secs isn't really doing anything:

Originally Posted by Qsilver7

This is a false rumor that has persisted across many BMW forums for years...but indeed is false and is just an example of something started by someone that didn't understand BMW technology that has been around since the 1994 model year when Adaptive Transmission Control (ATC) debuted.

In a nut-shell...it doesn't work (long term) as others mentioned because you're not really doing any "reset" or "clearing" of the transmission control module (TCM).

All it takes is a simple understanding of BMW's ATC (adaptive transmission control) and it all becomes clear. First, driver influenced adaptations (AGS) are NEVER stored in the TCM...they start new at every start up...this is WHY the tranny is adaptive for EVERY driver at EVERY start up.

The adaptive nature of ATC's driver influence...takes data from the position of the accelerator pedal and how fast/slow the pedal is pushed. Upon this data...the TCM will select one of 3 predetermined shift patterns:

1. extreme economy (granny-toe) mode
2. economy (normal) mode
3. sport (adaptive sport mode is slightly less aggressive than the manually selected EXTREME sport mode)

The process that the rumored reset has you go thru is a waste of time and implies that you've done something special...when all you've done by turning the ignition on, pressing the accelerator pedal to the floor and holding it there for a few seconds, then starting the car...is tell ATC that you are driving aggressively....thus the adaptive sport mode (#3 above) is selected. You could have done the same thing by just starting the car and driving aggressively (which for some is an everyday occurence).

Again, that is why the setting never remains...because you haven't actually done a reset...you've just pretended to be an aggressive driver, thus ATC selects the adaptive sport mode...then when the ignition is turned off...nothing is stored because driver influenced adaptations are NEVER stored. The next time the car is started...it will take data anew dependent on if the driver is a granny, normal driver, or aggressive...and the appropriate driving mode will be selected.

You can see the text in the red box below explains that driver influenced adaptations are NOT stored:

[wpoll]

Originally Posted by CleanIsFast

So apparently the whole; position 2, foot pedal down 30secs isn't really doing anything:

Yep - it's all just bunk. There is the same sort of rumour in BMW bike circles (F650GS mainly) about twisting the throttle to fully open twice to reset the FI or idling the bike until the fan kicks in etc. All hogwash too...

[Anhelenuk]

I have similar experience of 2-1 downshifts but I've learned to accept it as zf character.

[BMW-x5-48is]

Here below is almost very TRANSMISSION issue and the fixes.. Thanks to this my car shifts more smooth then the day it came off the lot... its truly an AMAZING GEARBOX when its taken care of... :-) it has half the parts of its competitors, some of these go up to 200k when taken care of!! good luck fellow X5'ers


I saved this for you guys... Best website Ive ever seen that lists every problem and solution (Real solution not the 10000's different ones)..

Everything about your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 transmission issues | BMW LOGIC7

It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28

In this post i will be explaining why you have tranny issues like:

-harsh shift 2-1

-not able to shift into park when hot

-weak torque feeling

-tranny faults // etc..


MAKE SURE TO REPLACE A FEW PARTS THAT ARE PRONE TO GO BAD AT 50k

INCLUDING:

MECHATRONIC ADAPTER SEAL (VERY IMPORTANT!! ) YES THIS SMALL, CHEAP GASKET CAN DAMAGE YOUR TRANSMISSION PRETTY BAD!

This adapter (number 2) usually lasts only 60-70kmls (BMW lifetime). Replace it every 60kmls even if tranny shifts well. It is very important because it keeps your mechatronic valve body under specified pressure therefore it controls how clutches are pressed! Which means if your gasket is weak your tranny clutches are not pressing well on each other causing premature wear and tear, also tranny pump and TC clutch will be affected. This square seal also can CRACK, in this case you will get tranny fail safe errors and even clutches slipping ERRORS,

OTHER 4 RUBBER PIPE SEALS.

SOLENOID KITS. 2 TYPES

GUIBO FLEX DISC. They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k.
Common Symptoms:
a) hard 2-1 sift
b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c)overall tranny shifting quality

-Tranny fluid level (CHECK IT!!) replace it !!
TRANSMISSION RUNS MUCH BETTER WITH OEM ZF FLUID OR SHELL M1375.4 FLUIDS, SO BETTER SPEND FEW MORE BUCKS FOR CORRECT FLUID. FEBI OR ZF WILL WORK GREAT.



-Torque converter clutch.
most common symptoms of bad clutch:

-sometimes when clutch is very bad it will throw 1721 error clucth slip

-bad MPG. Without TC clutch your car is still driveable, but you can feel its very weak even though engine feels strong

-after 4th gear tachometer arrow is not steady

-weak pickups, downshifting when driving uphill

-bad slipping clutch will overheat tranny pump and finally will kill internal tranny parts (clucths, valve body, seals, etc)

good news you can have your TC rebuilt for around 300$ and from personal experience i must say its not as perfect as new, but decent still.

IMPORTANT NOTE: DON’T FORGET TO RESET TRANSMISSION ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION!!! IF YOU DON’T RESET IT, TRANNY WON’T SHIFT ANY BETTER BECAUSE IT REMEMBERS BAD VALUES.


BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, i strongly recommend new (remanufactured) valve body from ZF, or have it rebuilt by REVMAX Converters or buy a SONNAX zip kit and do it yourself, but to get perfect results and save money and time you should consider entire valve body (mechatronic) swap or rebuilt with proper testing, so far revmax converters rebuild it good and provide warranty. If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and reset adaptations, it’s not shifting well, it means transmission hardware (bushings or actual ctultches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem stats at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of them thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.


READ REST OF LINK ABOVE TO SOLVE YOUR GEARBOX PROBLEMS like I have... maybe some of you its different.. but thanks to this article i fixed the harsh 1 into 2nd gear changes on a 2006 x5 4.8is, and I also fixed the weird not enough torque error that occurs once every 2-3 months when driving at very low RPM and needing power the gearbox will throw a downshift incorrectly and can cause a TRANS FAIL SAFEPROG. This article above solves this problem as well.