Supercharger owners, How to: $15 fitting for boost pressure test

[J.Belknap]

Parts needed:

Home Depot
- 4" No-hub coupling, SKU: 018578000780 ($5.42)
- 4" PVC pipe cap, SKU: 012871559426 ($2.71)
- Liquid Nails (clear) adhesive sealant, SKU: 022078546334 ($3.47)

Auto parts store
- Schrader valve (~$5.00)
(I used a spare Volk GT-C Schrader valve that I had lying around, as it is threaded and has rubber seals.)

Assembly:

1. Drill a hole in the 4" PVC fitting for your valve.
2. Install the valve to the 4" PVC fitting. (I left room for adding a shop-air hose fitting in the future.)
3. Pop the rivets holding the metal bands to the ribbed metal part of the No-hub coupling.
4. Keep the metal bands, but throw the ribbed metal part of the No-hub coupling in the garbage.
5. Clamp one side of the 4" No-hub coupling rubber piece to the 4" PVC fitting.
6. Use Liquid Nails sealant around the circumference where the fitting meets the coupling. (Inside and outside)
7. Use Liquid Nails sealant around the valve if neccessary. (Not needed for the valve I used.)

Use:

1. Remove Dinan air filter.
2. Install boost pressure test fitting.
3. Charge to 10psi. (I am using a Craftsman 19.2V air pump. M/N: 315.115860)
4. Check for air leaks. (hissing air)
5. Tighten down air leaks, enjoy more power.







REVISED DESIGN WITHOUT RIBBED METAL BAND

[J.Belknap]

Making a revision. (edited to include the following in the original post)

3. Pop the rivets holding the metal bands to the ribbed metal part of the No-hub coupling.
4. Keep the metal bands, but throw the ribbed metal part of the No-hub coupling in the garbage.

I couldn't get a good 360 degree seal with the ribbed metal band pinching up the rubber. Removing the ribbed metal part did the trick. I charged the piping to 10 psi and found no air leaks from the tester to the intake manifold.

The oil fill cap was leaking air, however. Air is either:
- Getting by the S/C shaft oil seal and into the crankcase.
- Getting by the PCV valve, and I need to remove the hose going to the PCV valve and plug it.
Testing again with the tester in place AFTER the S/C will determine which is going on. I will retest tomorrow, this time with the oil cap off.

This tester was derived from an old DSM boost leak tester: Boost leak test how to with boostpro.net tester - DSM Forums