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#1
05-16-2009, 02:43 PM
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Installed OEM trailer hitch today. Piece of cake!
I ordered my OEm hitch kit off of flea-bay and got it 2 days later.
Installed this morning. Started at 8am, done by noon. That included a run to the store for a door panel remover tool. If there is one thing that should be listed as a required tool that isnt, its the door panel removal tool. It makes life so much easier, especially since you have to pop off 20 of them for the rear bumper metal insert. Heres another plus, everyone has said you have to take the truck to BMW to have it programmed after installing the module, well I plugged in my trailer wires and voila! The trailer lights all work as they should. With the trailer hooked up, the blinkers blink faster than without, but thats just fine w/ me. This install is really overrated IMO, it was quite easy with normal tools and no help. Dont pay the 500+ dollars to have the dealer install it, do it yourself and enjoy your saved money. I hoisted the tow bar into place myself w/ no help, lined everything up easily and got the bumper back on w/ the help of a ratchet strap hanging from the tailgate hinge. Thanks to the instructions I found on this site, I couldnt have done it w/o Xoutpost. matt 
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#2
05-16-2009, 03:57 PM
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I think the whole programming thing varies heavily on year and software integration level. Programming tells modules the guidelines to operate under. (most modules come pre-programmed) Encoding tells it what other modules are there to work with and stored the vehicle VIN to it, personalized the module to YOUR particular setup.
I would consider the next time the vehicle is at the dealer for anything (service, etc.) try to get them to encode it for you for 0.5 hour labor.
__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is 
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#3
05-16-2009, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
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#4
05-16-2009, 04:34 PM
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I don't know what all aspects are working/not working now, but with it encoded you know it is all working as it should and will cause no problems. Plus once the retrofit encoding is there, the module has self diagnostic capabilities and can be communicated with via GT1 tester. If not encoded in it won't have the diagnostic capabilities and could possibly cause some faults to be stored in the DSC.
But it is up to you as it may be all working now, I have no way of knowing.
__________________
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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#5
05-16-2009, 09:14 PM
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Congratulations on the install. Do you have any pictures of the tool that you purchased please?
----- Regarding trailer coding: do you reckon your X computers know when a trailer is connected, if you haven't coded a hitch? I can't remember where,but I think I read that there's some adjustments that the car makes when it knows it has a trailer. I think it might be adjustments in transmission shift points (?), and the DSC has something that applies the brakes & helps you out if it detects trailer fishtailing, amongst other things it does to help. I tow 4800# of rally car & trailer, and the stability stuff and towing safety/performance of the X is one reason I bought went for the X. Not sure if I'm enjoying benefits of DSC etc or not, but it was brilliant under semi-emergency heavy braking situations. Compared to my old mitsubishi towing the same load, the X feels like it's doing a whole heap of assistance in the background when under hard braking etc. For example, in the Mitsubishi, I used to have to use corrective steering to keep everything in a straight line under brakes; in the X, I just have to be careful not to spill my coffee! Maybe your 0.5 of coding would be worth it just to be sure you're getting the benefits of giving all the computers the knowledge about the trailer being connected. Maybe as a test, you could pull one of the trailer bulbs, and see if you get the "Check trailer lights" message on your dash. I do. Not sure if this confirms you've got a properly configured hitch, but if it doesn't work, it's possibly a sign that you need coding? Cheers,Scott
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#8
05-16-2009, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
I stared at the plug that plugs into the module for a second before I realized that you have to slide it up to reveal the actual plug, then attach it to the module and slide it back down which locks it into place. Have something soft like a few towels near by to lay the bumper on. You have to roll it onto the paint side to access the 20 little fasteners in order to remove the old bumper and reinstall the new metal bumper. Before you reinstall the bumper, tighten all the bolts EXCEPT the four longest ones that attach the bumper bracket to the tow bar. The brackets can slide almost an inch either direction so you can center the bumper. keep the bolts loose enough so the bracket can slide. Install the bumper and tighten down the two t-55 bolts, then position the bumper so its centered...shouldnt take much. Now tighten those four bolts down inside the trunk and it will close the gap between the bumper and the bottom of the tailgate. Good luck. Matt
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