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#1
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Bogging Issue 2001 4.4
Still having an issue with a severe bogging down. It is only when the car is cold, after a night of being parked. Start engine, idle is a little rough, back down the drive, put into gear, the first 2-3 minutes that car won't accelerate properly. Bogs down severely. After that initial 3 minutes or so, then the car runs fine with no issues. Any ideas or help on what it could be. |
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#2
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Do you have a CEL?
It sounds to me like it has something to do with the emissions system. Newer cars are designed to run with a different set of parameters on start up. Once they warm up they switch to a different setting. Are you using the right gas? Sorry I'm not a mechanic, just trying to help.
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#3
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Thanks for the input. What is the CEL. The codes from SES light are P0174 and P0176 lean bank 1 and bank 2. Those codes have shown up for the past 6 months. The bogging just started the last couple weeks but is getting worse and rougher at start up.
Been using the same gas we always do. |
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#4
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LOL, I'm so used to using acronyms anymore.
Sorry, CEL is the check engine light.
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#5
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SES light has been on for quite some time. Too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2 - initally thought MAF - changed out didn't work so sent that one back and kept the original one in
Thought maybe there was some other explanation. Any help is apreciated. |
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#6
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02 sensors?
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#7
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Not sure if the idle air control valve is used on the 01 M62TU, but 98 M62 has one. Its a bit smaller than a Redbull can and is connected to the throttle body. Look up how to clean it one www.e38.orgAnother suggestion is to mostly mileage based....replacing the front 02 sensors, and believe it or not - the catalytic converters. The M62/TU runs slight rich, and use over on bf.c w/ 540's and 740's have replaced the stock cats w/ Magnaflow units w/ great results. For a while I had a crappy morning idle to where I had to tap the gas a couple times after start-up to smooth the idle. After I replaced the cats, it idle smooth as butter and even has a slightly deeper exhaust note. I was able to get them done for $200 per side including installation.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#8
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Thanks for the input guys. We have not changed the O2 sensors yet. The idle air control valve we also have not looked at but he will. He thought it might be o2 sensors as well. At one trip back to the dealer, he said the vanos needed to be replaced. Would that make a difference as well? Just grasping for straws at this point.
The 0174 and 0176 codes are the only ones that have shown up. Thanks for any help. |
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#9
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Cleaning the IACV is simple, just spray and shake it till it's dry and moves freely.
Changing the 02's is a bit tougher, but just remember that you only need to change the FRONT 02's, not all 4. The fronts (pre-cat) are what feeds the computer information about fuel and air ratios, the rears are just there to confirm that you actually have catalytic converters present and have no control over anything other than kicking a code if you've removed your cats.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#10
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Just wondering if there is anything else out there to help with the bogging issue. We will be tearing the car apart this weekend to see what's up. Any help is appreciated. We will be trying all your suggestions. Thanks
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