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#1
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![]() My dad always said once the main seal leaks DUMP IT and DUMP IT QUICK! Now my dad says just add coolant and keep an eye out on it daily.....lollololol ![]() Has this happened to anyone or eve heard of it?
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Anton NYC ![]() |
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#2
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check your valleypan gasket. this is a common problem over 75k mi. Under the intake manifold there is the valleypan, it tends to leak on the m62 engines. If you have the 3.0 it still could be, i just dont know about that motor.
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#3
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i have a 4.4
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Anton NYC ![]() |
#4
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Engines never have freeze plugs in that location. It's probably a leak that originates higher up.
Btw, rear main seal is the oil seal that's behind the flexplate/flywheel. |
#5
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Sorry to bump in.. does the oil seal often wear out as the car inches up 75K+? My indy mentioned I would need a new seal, and pointed out some spongy hoses in that area, and said that I should replace my oil separator as well.. what do you think? I guess all the parts are pretty cheap but it's a b*tch to remove all panels and components at the top/rear of the engine bay, but once there, she said he should get it all done at once since all the worn parts are in the same vicinity. How much "should" this run to fix?
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#6
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if your doing the oil seperator your no where near the rear main seal...thats a whole other can of worms
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#7
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I wouldn't worry about the rear main oil seal unless it happens to start leaking, or you have the transmission removed for some reason... otherwise it should be out of site, out of mind.
To the OP, the coolant leak that looks like it is coming from between the engine and trans would most likely be the coolant valley pan, but could also be the heater hoses as they are back there too.
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"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is ![]() |
#8
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is there any diagram or can someone point it out to me where this valley pan is......Some days its leaks alot and then some it doesnt leak but two three drops........
Im a bit scared by the whole thing as summer is here and the A/C is in use....
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Anton NYC ![]() |
#9
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Your best bet IMHO is to take your vehicle to a reputable
dealer and let them find the leak. Then if you want to go back to your indy to have them fix the problem then do so. Either way guessing about what it might be and continuing to add coolant won't fix the problem. Sometime you just got to bite the bullet cough up the coins and fix it.
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"What you hear in a great jazz band is the sound of democracy. “The jazz band works best when participation is shaped by intelligent communication.” Harmony happens whenever different parts get to form a whole by means of congruity, concord, symetry, consistency, conformity, correspondence, agreement, accord, unity, consonance……. ![]() |
#10
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Quote:
The best way to find the leak is to do a dye test, rather than guess. A dye test is when they put a dye into your antifreeze, drive the car 10-30 miles (depending on how bad the leak is) and then use an ultraviolet light see exactly where the the leak is. The dye glows green under the light. The test is 50 - 90 bucks usually. but first you have to have an undercarriage wash done on your car to clear out the old antifreeze that leaked. Some carwashes have a lift outside for this specific task. they may ask if you want your engine washed at the same time, tell em no. Most places just use water, when they should be using a combination of wd-40 and gasoline, and fr the undercarriage wash usually they use some type of degreaser mix. go straight to the shop to put the dye in after the wash, or put the dye in yourself, it comes in a little bottle you just add to your antifreeze, and this should all be done on a dry day when there are no puddles around |
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