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#1
06-10-2009, 03:57 PM
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haha tom your right i did notice that. but i found it easier to work with everything out of the way, it only took like 2 extra minutes
 and x foomph, i had those two small caps removed with this tool i found in my tool box (i don't even know what to call it). it looked like a pocket knife and had like 15 different pieces of metal which got thinner and thinner. i used one of the thinnest ones to pop the two caps out. so i guess just find something really thin. the reason there is no pictures is because i received a defective unit (one chipped and one didnt work at all) now i have the chipped LED tailight in and the OEM one on the right, so its ghetto  . i'll take some pictures when the new unit arrives.
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___________________    ___________________ 2002 BMW X5 3.0i ----sold---- 2008 BMW X5 3.0si 2010 BMW 335i M Sports Package & BMW Performance Kit
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#2
06-10-2009, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Feeler gauge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia 
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 Xoutpost.com - where you come for the information but stay for the friendships
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#3
06-10-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
wow good call haha. i thought my description made no sense. thanks 
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___________________ ___________________ 2002 BMW X5 3.0i ----sold---- 2008 BMW X5 3.0si 2010 BMW 335i M Sports Package & BMW Performance Kit
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#6
07-12-2013, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
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X5 E70 3.0d M-Sport , 2010 Titan Silver , ZF 6HP28, 320hp.  X5 E53 3.0d Sport, 2006 LeMans Blue, ZF 6HP26, diesel .
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#7
07-12-2013, 01:05 AM
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the plastic trim of the lower hatch comes off with a flatblade screwdriver... then, there are about 9 philips screws that hold the surrounding plastic piece, and they are not created equal, remember which ones were taken from which spot - there are two types of those screws... don't forget the screws that are at the lock side of the panel, there are two small square plastic covers that can be popped with a thin blade, and two more screws (iirc) towards the sides ... once you remove that plastic shroud, along with the sponge/foam, then you should full access to the nuts holding the light assemblies...
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#9
07-13-2013, 11:55 AM
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Very nice, thank you for the detailed DIY.
__________________
Current: 2017 640Xi Convertible 2011 Acura MDX 2018 Santa Fe Past: 2013 Honda Accord 2008 Acura TL Tech.------2004 BMW X5 4.8is----2004 Acura MDX Tech 1994 BMW 525i.----------1994 Lexus 300 GS.----1994 Acura Legend GS 1991 Acura Legend LS.----1991 Honda Accord.----1991 300ZX twin turbo 1996 Buick Regal GS.-----1984 300Z 50th anniv.--2002 BMW X5 1982 280Z
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#10
07-13-2013, 01:44 PM
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I have a question about the facelifted models with Brake Force Distribution (BFD)... the BFD signal uses Pulse Wave Modulation (PWM) to modulate the intensity of the tail lights and on the LED lights makes them flicker... this issue is resolved with installing a capacitor that smoothes out the square wave of the PWM and the LEDs stop flickering.
the question is about the programming - there is a line in the LCM programming code that states "LED taillights - nicht active"... I don't remember exact spelling at this moment, i would need to dig up the old file to look it up, but... I wonder if there is a member who has the LED tail lights, does not have a capacitor (or can remove the capacitor rather easy) and is able to use NCSExpert, could change the line in the programming code to see if the LEDs will stop flickering AND will retain the BFD ability... Any takers?
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