X5 DIY CV Joint Boot Replacement

Meestahbig · #1 09-23-2009, 11:08 AM

I am gearing up to chage the CV joint boot on my 2005 X5 (E53). I have read the procedure in the tips and tricks section. I am also a firm believer in having the right tools (which makes all the difference)...

That said, who has a good tool for pressing out/in the ball joints from the steering knuckle. And who knows of a good universal hub puller that will bolt-on and pull the steering knuckle of the drive shaft. I know you can seperate it from the chassis and pull the whole knuckle off with the control arms, but i would like to be able to seperate the thing for experience.

Does anyone have any suggestions on tools to use. the BMW tools are not even available anymore (based on the TIS part numbers shown on the DIY guid here on xoutpost)...

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generx · #2 09-23-2009, 11:33 AM

I did a DIY here and used 2 very inexpensive pullers which worked great. There is a lot of info on the CV boot repair and there are more than a couple of methods to do it. I chose to do the shortcut which may be helpful to you (it is recommended only if the CV boot damage was recent and the inner workings have not been contaminated over a long period)

It is important to turn the wheels outward on each of the sides that you are working on in order to get the pullers on. If you keep the steering wheel at dead center, it can be difficult to get them on.

stephx5 · #3 09-23-2009, 11:37 AM

Hi Meestahbig,

I just completed doing my cv boot on Monday. I actually took pictures and I will be posting my procedure in a few days.

I have had good luck leaving the control arms attached to the steering knuckle and removing the entire assembly, this is typically my method of choice. I do replace the nylock nuts on the control arms when I re-install the knuckle and torque to spec. Removing both the control arms would require a ball joint puller like the one you have shown, and add a bit more time to an already long job (for 1 diy guy).

I have attached a picture of the puller that I use to pull the steering knuckle off of the axle stub. It's not the perfect tool for the job as the shaft isnt quite long enough but I'm able to get the length that I need using a short 1/2" wratchet extension on the front. I have used this setup a few times now and it works with ease. The key is that this setup only puts force on the hub and the lugs not on the fragile dust sheild behind the hub.

I was able to rent this puller the first time I did this job from a local auto parts shop here, then I saw it on ebay for $67 so I bought it.

hope this helps!

-stephX5

Meestahbig · #4 09-23-2009, 11:45 AM

Hi, thanks for the advice... and the pictures. I have seen that hub puller online. this is good to know that it works. what other parts did you have to replace??? the xoutpost DIY mentions the following. I am unsure wehre to get these or if they are just some standard nuts

22mm nylock nut x 2
18mm nylock byt
1.5" and 4" standard screw type compression rings.

please post your DIY tips. your photos are really great...

much appreciated. Marc

stephx5 · #5 09-23-2009, 02:30 PM

The Nylock nuts are not regular nuts they have an outer nylon ring on one side that grips the thread on the bolt. You can get these at any good auto supply or even the dealer the part numbers are specified in realoem for your particular vehicle. For my 2001 4.4i X5 the part number for the 22mm nylock nuts are:

SELF-LOCKING HEX NUTM14X1,5 05 ZNS34

31106769443$1.96

See attachment for what they actually look like.

The 1.5" and the 4" standard screw type compression rings or sometimes known as "hose clamps" I usually like to have those on hand for emergencies and then I only use them temporarily until I can get the proper wire compression ring that fastens the CV boot to the stub. You can probably leave those compression rings on but I only use them if something went wrong with the clamps in my kit and I have no choice. When you buy the CV boot kit it will come with the appropriate steel straps that should be placed on the boot to keep it in place. This does require a special tool but its relatively cheap (about $20.00) and makes for a professional looking job. The tool is really a glorified set of crimpers see pic. Using this really makes the boot look "remanufactured" as opposed to "rigged" but more importantly its the proper fastner specd for the job. See a pic of my completed boot below.

hope this helps
-stephX5

faz · #6 09-23-2009, 04:33 PM

Great pictures, stephx5.

Can't wait to see the writeup.

Meestahbig · #7 09-23-2009, 04:58 PM

one more question. what is all the talk in the other threads about having to replace the wheel bearing if it is removed (due to the fact that no anti sieze compound is used).

when you take the steering knuckle off the axle is this considred removing the wheel bearing? It's just a little confusing...

thx, Marc

Repoman · #8 09-23-2009, 07:55 PM

It is not as hard a job as it seems. I didn't seperate any tie rod ends or ball joints and didn't have a puller and still no problems. However, the more parts that are removed/seperated, the more room you have to work. My work area was a little cramped being that I didn't dismantle as much. I used an 8lb sledge and a KA punch to remove the outer axle from the hub assembly. Also, I couldn't find a 12 point 36mm socket so I used a 1 7/8' which converts to 1/2 a mm difference, close enough. Not a hard job, just very dirty.

Regarding the wheel bearing replacement, I assume they are referring to if the bearing seperates from itself due to the intense pressure used to remove it. It took me 8-10 good shots with the sledge to get it off. Something has got to give for it to come off, either the bearing or rust between the bearing and the shaft. Just hope its not the bearing. I'm sure if it was reassembled with never sieze on the shaft that the next time you wanted to remove the hub it would slide off like butter.

stephx5 · #9 09-24-2009, 10:16 AM

Thanks faz, I'm trying to get a free moment to put it together. I never feel like I have enough pictures and like Repoman says it really is a dirty job! there were a few shots I coldn't get because of the grease factor.

Taking the axle stub off of the steering knuckle is not considered removing the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing is located between the steering knuckle and the hub, its what allows the hub to spin freely in the steering knuckle.

I'm not sure of the specific posts you mention but in the CV boot procedure you are only pulling the steering knuckle off of the axle stub, this does not pull the hub off of the steering knuckle. I guess it could be possible in pulling the steering knuckle off of the axle stub the hub may somehow come off like Repoman mentions. If this were the case it's clearly stated once the hub is removed you must replace the bearings as well. In my experience the force requiered to pull the steering knuckle off of the axle stub is not anywhere close to what it takes to pull the hub from the steering knuckle.

If you use a good puller securely attached and work it nice and slow I think you should be fine.

hope this helps
-stephX5

Meestahbig · #10 09-25-2009, 09:10 AM

I feel like I am making good headway and getting things straight in my head. I damn near have all the steps, parts and tools memorized at this point.

Another question (1):
I think for sure I am going to need to clean out the CV Joint. I do not know when my boot ripped, but I suspect it was months ago. I do not drive the car much, but i am sure inside it is dirty.

So, if I hammer the out CV joint off while the axle half shaft is still connected to the transmission, is it going to rip my inner boot off. From what I have read (about the alternate approach to changing the boots from the transmission side) it seems like the axle half shaft is just connected to the transmission with the inner boot...

I am concerned if I am hammering hard, the whole half shaft will come flying out.

Another question (2):

Has anyone had good experience seperating the ball joint that is in the middle of the steering knuckle. I think the tie rod is in the back, the tension strut is in the front, but there is one joint that is in the center. I think it is hard to access and sometimes people disconnect via the subframe side, which i would rather not do (because I read about having to load the car with weight to set the ride height before tightening that nut and bolt back together on the frame side). I would much rather seperate the ball joints from the steering knuckle and then pull it off...

thx, Marc

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