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  #11  
Old 11-17-2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieHustleX5 View Post
The powerflex bushing for the thrust rod is a 2 piece bushing with a collar in the middle.

Regarding your bushing issue, is the new bushing pressed in place correctly? it has to be exactly where the old bushing was or else they'll sit off or prematurely wear out. I dont think the ball joint on the hub carrier would cause the arm to move the way you describe. Did you tighten the bolts down with the car on the ground with a load on the suspension or up in the air with the wheels off the ground?
i did all that... i dunno why it moved. car rides straight and everything. the arm must be bent.

do you need a press to get that two piece part in?
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  #12  
Old 11-17-2009, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tonycajjo View Post
i did all that... i dunno why it moved. car rides straight and everything. the arm must be bent.

do you need a press to get that two piece part in?
nevermind. its 2 pieces, one bushing and one collar.
i will need a press. i thought it may be two piece bushing and just slide in from each side.

i think i should dump the stock ones that i just bought
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2009, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonycajjo View Post
nevermind. its 2 pieces, one bushing and one collar.
i will need a press. i thought it may be two piece bushing and just slide in from each side.

i think i should dump the stock ones that i just bought
I used a traditional C-Clamp style bushing press kit to seat the bushing into place. Real easy, barely any effort needed to complete the task. Removing the OEM one....thats another story.
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  #14  
Old 11-18-2009, 12:12 PM
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the oem i know i can get out pretty easily. when i took it out to recenter it i can tell that its not so tight. does the powerflex PFF5-901 (thrust arm / upper control arm) have a lip on either side that will hold the arm in the center? (like pictured)


(http://www.powerflex.co.uk/resize_im..._web.JPG&w=250)

i bought these. from powerflexusa.com

i just hope that there is nothing wrong other than i maybe got a bad bushing or my buddy used too much lube when originally putting them in.

to help these slide in i can use a little copper based grease? maybe a little water instead?
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Old 11-18-2009, 06:30 PM
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just got a call and they are all out, dont expect them for 2-4 weeks. wtf? now what.
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  #16  
Old 11-18-2009, 09:29 PM
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PhoenixMotorsport.co.uk have them in stock.

X5Girl, xxx
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2009, 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by X5girl View Post
PhoenixMotorsport.co.uk have them in stock.

X5Girl, xxx
indeed they do
[email protected]
Contact Phoenix Motorsport

i spoke with gerry and he was extremely helpful, the bushings are in route. i am looking forward to getting them in.
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  #18  
Old 11-19-2009, 01:33 PM
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I got mine today and I will install them this afternoon. And yes there is a lip on both sides to hold it center.

I am going to replace both front and rear sway bar bushings with these Powerflex ones as well. Should stiffen things up a bit. My old ones are pretty worn.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2009, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wallyx5 View Post
I got mine today and I will install them this afternoon. And yes there is a lip on both sides to hold it center.

I am going to replace both front and rear sway bar bushings with these Powerflex ones as well. Should stiffen things up a bit. My old ones are pretty worn.
cool, let me know how it goes. i can't imagine my arm is bent or anything. also let me know how you did the install for the front thrust arm bushings. i can probably use a tip or two. i plan to remove the OEM ones with brute force and a generic C style bushing clamp, and i hope these powerflex ones will be a bit easier to install with the same tool. i just hope the clamp is large enough and i have a cup big enough.
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  #20  
Old 11-23-2009, 02:23 PM
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The C clamp wasn't a traditional one. It came a part of a bushing press kit. As far as the cup to push the bushing out, you can probably just use a hacksaw or reciprocating saw if all else fails. As far as removal of the arm, I just used a jack to help hold up the hub carrier's weight, unbolted the arm from the ball joint and then from the subframe. Then I took a picture of the placement of the bushing, took measurements of how much of the collar was exposed on both sides so I know how far to push the new bushing in, and cut the collar in half to push it out.
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