Camber adjustment (with photos)

[butundo]

I know many don't suggest adjusting without going to the dealer, but it only takes a few minutes once you have access to the bolts. You just need to use 2 wrenches to adjust, 18mm and 21mm. You can spin the bolt until it is adjusted to the max. I'm sure that BMW designed this with the adjustment in mind, or you would not be able to make any changes. The tires are not completely straight, but they are close. I have not noticed any drastic changes in ride, but the Blizzaks do have soft sidewalls and don't handle very well at speed. Plus, I like the idea of my tires lasting more than a few thousand miles.

The first picture shows the tire tracks before adjustment. Even though they look even, it is because of the soft nature of the Blizzaks. After adjustment, they still looked the same.

[butundo]

didn't attach photos:

[Sudesh]

Originally Posted by butundo

I know many don't suggest adjusting without going to the dealer, but it only takes a few minutes once you have access to the bolts. You just need to use 2 wrenches to adjust, 18mm and 21mm. You can spin the bolt until it is adjusted to the max. I'm sure that BMW designed this with the adjustment in mind, or you would not be able to make any changes. The tires are not completely straight, but they are close. I have not noticed any drastic changes in ride, but the Blizzaks do have soft sidewalls and don't handle very well at speed. Plus, I like the idea of my tires lasting more than a few thousand miles.

The first picture shows the tire tracks before adjustment. Even though they look even, it is because of the soft nature of the Blizzaks. After adjustment, they still looked the same.

I noticed that my 4.6is looks very strange from the rear and though about adjusting the camber, does anyone have the specs for the camber on the 4.6?

[Icer006]

What's the point for tinkering with camber if you don't have an alignment rack to see how much camber/toe you have?

I suppose you're just "eyeing" it? Also, why do you want the tires to have zero camber? Negative camber is better.

[dkl]

Originally Posted by Icer006

What's the point for tinkering with camber if you don't have an alignment rack to see how much camber/toe you have?

I suppose you're just "eyeing" it? Also, why do you want the tires to have zero camber? Negative camber is better.

You can't just adjust camber without affecting toe. Having excessive toe in/out would cause more severe tire wear than just negative camber.

Go to an alignment shop! What's the logic in trying to save $100 bucks on a proper alignment and mess up those 4 expensive tires?

[ZsX5o3]

I agree. My camber/toe was professionally aligned recently.

The stock camber in the rear was -2.5° it was brought to -1.5°

It could have gone to -1° but one of my bushings was worn on one side, so they had to make it an even -1.5°

I also had the front camber brought to -0.75°


from NEO autos in CT.

[Icer006]

Originally Posted by dkl

You can't just adjust camber without affecting toe. Having excessive toe in/out would cause more severe tire wear than just negative camber.

Go to an alignment shop! What's the logic in trying to save $100 bucks on a proper alignment and mess up those 4 expensive tires?

Not to mention having the incorrect toe setting could be potentially dangerous.

[butundo]

Originally Posted by Icer006

What's the point for tinkering with camber if you don't have an alignment rack to see how much camber/toe you have?

I suppose you're just "eyeing" it? Also, why do you want the tires to have zero camber? Negative camber is better.

Not possible to have 0 camber, the adjustments won't allow it. Yes negative camber is better if you want to take bends at high speed and have extreme stability. On a straight, it just wears your tires. With the winter tires, I am very easy on the truck, and don't tear around anyways.

[Icer006]

Originally Posted by butundo

Not possible to have 0 camber, the adjustments won't allow it. Yes negative camber is better if you want to take bends at high speed and have extreme stability. On a straight, it just wears your tires. With the winter tires, I am very easy on the truck, and don't tear around anyways.

You still have the issue of the toe. Toe will change if you change camber. No sense skimping on alignment just because it eats your rear tires.

True, negative camber eats tires on the straight... but if you're not going that fast anyway, it wouldn't matter as much as if you were on dry.

[vinuneuro]

Excess toe will kill your tires much faster than negative camber will.