Moisture in autolevel?

[corima]

Looks like my auto level inactive warning keeps coming on because of moisture in the system. Everything works fine, but clearing the code only lasts for a few days before returning. Can the desiccant at the pump be replaced?

Any ideas?

[Unit107]

I am having the exact same issue. I got water in the battery well and the EHC module was under water. What component do you think is failing on yours? and how did you come to that conclusion?

Just want to compare notes to see if I am experiencing a similar issue.

[corima]

Nothing was underwater or got wet with mine. Both front airstruts were replaced over the past 10 months. Got the dealer and BMWNA to comp those. But in general, overall information exchange from the dealer is been very low. I dont like being kept out of the loop. I had a very well regarded local run the diagnostic this time and got much more information. I wonder if the desiccant is going bad by the pump? I dont know if it is replaceable by itself. Otherwise everything works fine. No leaning or bad handling. Worisome non the less. The independant mentioned the possibility of dismantling all the lines and flushing the lines with a drying alcohol. Sounds expensive time wise.

[Unit107]

Update: My vehicle was in the shop all day to investigate the Self Level issue. They replaced the sunroof drain tube (rear right) that would not stay connected. An $8 part that caused all the damage. I will have to leave the roof liner disassembled for several more days until everything dries out up there before I seal it back up.

As for the suspension, They pretty much narrowed it to the Air Supply Control Unit (part# 37141092396), located next to the battery. They disassembled the unit (yeah, I was surprised they could do that also) and said there was clearly a water line from being submerged and the start of mold growing inside. They cleaned it up (disassembled and washed non-electronic parts, and cleaned connections on electronic parts), reassembled the unit, and re-installed. This was the first time since the water infiltration two weeks ago that the "selflevel susp. inact." message had stayed off.

They drove it for a while, checked it out again, drove it a while more, then after about 1/2 hour the message came back on. All the error codes from the computer were pointing to incorrect voltage levels to various components of the self-level suspension, which would somewhat point to this component.

Anyway, as I arrived to pick up the vehicle, the message came back on. As it was 5:30 on a friday, there wasn't much more they could do.

My next step is to probably purchase a new unit (approx $150 for the rear-only unit). My understanding is that it should work plug-and-play, however, it does require some fine tuning with the computer, as you basically get the vehicle to the correct ride height then program the unit to let it know the correct voltage to maintain that setting.

Needless to say, I paid $300 over a week ago(which included an $125 prof. oil change and once over on the vehicle) and the time to investigate the Suspension issue. Today's trip was only $8.95 (drain tube only) and no labor charge, since I again drove away with the Suspsion message flashing again.

One other thing they mentioned is that it is possible to "manually" re-inflate the suspension(somehow bypass this component?). Not sure how they did that (physically with a system component or with the computer?) , but a couple days ago the suspension deflated after two weeks. I would like to know how they did this in case it happens again while I am waiting to get this part installed and configured. Anyone?

[MSUSaul]

i had the same problem. water was getting in from the roof and collecting in the battery area and ruined the self level suspension module. you can replace it yourself because it is just plug and play. my mechanic got the part for 150 and charged me 500 to install. it was such a rip off. so if you do it yourself, you'll be golden!

good luck.
saul

[matt1mike1]

You can manually reinflate the air bags. First you have to get to the compressor and disconnect the correct solenoid wires. (Remove the thin wire clip on the connector.) Red wires are driver's side and blue is the passenger. I recommend removing the wheel and have someone watch how the bag is inflating. There's only two connectors on the solenoid. Determine which one is ground and ground it to the chassis using an insulated alligator clip. Connect an alligator clip to the other connector and the solenoid should click, opening it. Remove the relay near the compressor and short both of the thick wires as this will activate the pump. Now you can start filling the bag. You will hear a very loud sound if you overfill it and then, it will cost you $180 for a new bag.