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#41
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I was just in there last week to use the self-adjusting clutch tool to reset the pressure plate so I can finish the 6spd install into my 740iL. I'm letting the axle soak in WD-40, hopefully it'll stop fighting me. I consider heating it w/ a torch, but it'd most likely be pointless considering how much meat is on the spindle. I just feel bad beating on my baby like this.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
Last edited by m5james; 03-25-2010 at 07:59 PM. |
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#42
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Quote:
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2003 4.6is - SOLD 2003 M5 Imola 2008 Mini Cooper S 2011 Mazda CX9 |
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#43
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Nope, just wanted it done ever since I bought the car...less wasted power, handles more of it, not as many worries if maintained and it'll be more fun to drive
The holes for the hydraulics are already stamped in the firewall since they make Euro 740i's in a 6spd. The installation is pretty straight forward really since it just bolts right in. I had to get a custom made driveline, coded software to get rid of the OBC error and bolted in various Euro parts for the hydraulics and tranny support, make the reverse lights still work, etc. It's a little cost prohibitive since most shops charge about half the price of what I paid for initially for the whole car, so only a handful of people have done it. I got the 6spd, flywheel, clutch and pressure plate out of a wrecked E39 M5 w/ a hair over 24k as opposed to buying new, so I REALLY lucked out there. I've been waiting to do this for about 5yrs now, so finding that deal on the trans really got the ball rolling about a month ago. The 7 was my daily driver, but now I'm going to finish what I started by turning it into the FI project car and the X has taken it's place for haulin the kids around. Question...how in the world did you hold the punch and still have the leverage to swing a hammer?! Maybe my problem is that I'm using an actual sledge hammer, so I find myself wailing on the end of the extension, but I randomly hit the inner fender liner if I bring the sledge back wrong. This thing hasn't budged...I just wanna hear it POP!
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
Last edited by m5james; 03-25-2010 at 07:52 PM. |
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#44
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Would the boot only be covered by CPO, or is this a "wear and tear" item? My driver's side front boot is toast and by the looks of the grease spray pattern, it has been like that for a while.
It hasn't been wet in a long time, but many miles may have been driven. |
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#45
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For an update, I finally got mine replaced. After stripping the threads on a 3 finger puller, beating the $HIT out of the end of the puller w/ a sledge hammer, I decided to remove the spindle and everything as an assembly. Even after putting the assembly on a hydraulic press, the CV joint simply wouldn't budge or else I just chickened out and didn't wanna push anymore. Instead I removed everything from the inner joint (boot, 3 bearings that remind me of the ship from the Matrix movies) and worked my way up to the outer boot. I got my boot kit off eBay for $12 shipped ($14.99 w/ Make Offer), packed both boots w/ plenty of grease and put everything back together about 80 percent before I had to come to work this evening. All that's left now is to put on the wheels to get the weight of the vehicle back onto the ground, torque everything down on the suspension and i'll finally get to enjoy what initially got this whole mess started...purdy red calipers front and rear
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#46
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What indy shop is it? Location? |
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#47
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Time to revive another thread...
Have to replace my driver side outer CV Boot, it has a noticeable crack in it with the wheel turned. Just noticed grease on my wheels and had it pointed out to me while my car was in for a software update. My warranty won't cover the boot due to wear and tear so I need to get it done before the axle starts having problems (axle is covered). BMW quoted ~ $650 (Not sure what they included in this) Local Indy ~ $550 (Includes parts, labor and alignment) I am all for DIY but on this it is a little beyond my skill. I will probably go to the indy, they were very honest and straight forward about the estimate. Anyone else have experience with this kind of repair? |
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#48
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It CAN be a bitch of a job sometimes, depending on which end you do. I had the hardest time doing my outer boot since I couldn't get the shaft removed from the spindle, even on a press. The inner boot is easier since it just requires a prybar to pop the shaft out of the diff.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#49
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#50
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I kinda thought buying the whole axle assy for $55 bucks was a good route. Got what I ordered, too.
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