Outer CV boot cracked. Leave it, or replace?

[m5james]

Originally Posted by djmilleroh

If I just did this repair myself while I replaced my front wheel hub. There is a great write up to do it yourself and all you need is time, I saved a ton of money this way, dont be intimidated by everything you have to take apart. at the same time the write up shows you how to take out the bearings, inspect them and re-grease everything. I bought 2 outer cv boot repair kits on ebay for $30.

Yesterday I did a rear brake job, cleaned and painted the calipers red and all associated hardware black. While I was washing the wheels this morning before reassembly, I noticed grease all over the inner portion of the wheel. I had the wheels rotated about a month ago (I know, I know..BMW doesn't recommend), and since the rear CV's are fine, it left me to the fronts. Low and behold, I've got a torn CV on my passenger side front. Thanksfully the X has only been on very short trips (no Seattle or Reno trips for quite a while), and I don't have the suspect clicking noise.

I found these on ebay 2000 2001 BMW X5 X 5 CV AXLE BOOT : eBay Motors (item 220355383543 end time Mar-29-10 17:11:11 PDT) How did they end up working out for you? The pic doesn't make them appear to be split boots, but are they after all? If they're not split, how in the heck do they go on...lots of stretching?

EDIT: Found this - http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html Jesus f'ing christ, what a headache This is like replacing rear main seals...like 4hrs worth of work for a $15 part.

[TheGodfather]

Originally Posted by m5james

EDIT: Found this - http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...mw-x5-e53.html Jesus f'ing christ, what a headache This is like replacing rear main seals...like 4hrs worth of work for a $15 part.

This is why many recommend replacing the joint as well. Unless you are 100 percent sure you did not drive an inch with grit in the joint.

Although if you are replacing it yourself, I guess it may be different seeing as how you don't have to pay for labor.

[m5james]

I'm still going to have to tear the suspension and other items out anyways, so replacing the boot vs the whole shaft is only a difference of a few minor steps at that point. I was having a good day w/ my pretty new calipers, just to find this.

[c4racer]

Originally Posted by m5james

I'm still going to have to tear the suspension and other items out anyways, so replacing the boot vs the whole shaft is only a difference of a few minor steps at that point. I was having a good day w/ y pretty new calipers, just to find this.

It's always something...

It is not that hard of a job. Forget all those DIY articles - I looked at them too and was getting overwhelmed so I just looked at the Bentley diagram and the car itself and just dug into it. This is no more than an hour job. You shouldn't have any trouble. Oh - but there is one hard part. Anyway - I am in the middle of it, so let me guide you through it.

1. remove center cap on the wheels to get to the 36mm spindle nut. You will need a thin screwdriver to pry out the locking tabs and then loosen the nut. You will need a 12 point 36mm socket - 1/2" drive. And either one hell of a good impact, or a lot of mechanical leverage to get that thing loose. What I use is a 1/2" breaker bar with my big jack handle over it - works like a charm. Must be torqued to 150lb-ft or more.

2. jack up the car, remove wheel

3. remove all of the brake hardware, rotor, caliper bracket, etc.

4. soak the spindle with PB blaster or similar penetrating oil

5. Before you unbolt anything else get the axle moving into the hub. You might be able to do this with an air hammer, but that didn't do squat for me. You need some serious force - that puppy is in there real good. What I did is custom made a big fat punch out of a chisel that I found at Home Depot. It is about 8" long and close to 3/4" thick. I cut the end off and deburred the edges so it becomes a blunt object. Put the axle nut back on the spindle end, but leave it very loose. You want to protect the threads on the end. Well - maybe you don't care if you are going to replace the entire axle assembly. Anyway, it also helps keep the punch centered on the spindle. Now. Hit the f@k out of that punch with a really really big hammer (technical term: BFH). I used a 4lb sledge. I am talking hammer it HARD. Measure how far the spindle sticks out first to give you a reference point. It takes a ton of force to move it the first 1/4" and then after that it starts to go. Slam that puppy in a ways, but not all the way in yet.

6. now unbolt the 2 strut bolts - those are big 22mm suckers.

7. separate the ball joint on the lower rear control arm. Also loosen the other end so you can swing it down out of the way.

8. Now you can hammer the axle end the rest of the way out of the hub and you can then simply swing the entire hub / spindle assembly out of the way leaving the steering tierod and front lower control arm ball joints connected.

9. If you are replacing the boot only, just remove the old one and hammer the CV joint off the axle shaft.

10. install the boots, hammer back on the CV joint (protecting the threads - I forgot that step and hosed mine btw...)

11. add the lube, then seal up the new boot

12. put some antiseize on the end of the axleshaft and get it started into the hub. Once started you can take a block of wood against the front of the hub and some more slamming with a BFH to move the spindle far enough in to get the 36mm nut started.

13. use the nut to pull the axle into the hub the rest of the way.

14. reverse order the other stuff above, but leave the lower control arm loose. Tighten once back on the suspension so you don't pre-load the bushing / arm.

that's pretty much it.

Now, if you want to replace the whole axle as an assembly you can also do that. I am not sure if there is a lock nut or not - need to double check the bentley on that point, but the general idea is to wedge something between the axle and the body of the diff to push the shaft out. It will require some force to pop the lock washer, after that it will come out easily. Hammer the new one back in until the lock washer locks it into place, which you can check with a light pull by hand and it should stay in place.

I found a source for a reman axle assembly by A-1 Cardone through RockAuto.com for $54 plus $75 core charge, which will be refunded when you return the old one. I like this because it uses OEM parts which I think are higher quality than the aftermarket stuff. I ended up going this route since I mangled the spindle threads and not sure if I can fix them. That was cheap enough that I'd rather not deal with it, so I will just replace the entire assembly now. I ordered this today.

Anyway - don't fear, it is not too bad once you get the axle pounded out of the hub. My trick should help, don't mess around with a 3/8" thick punch either - you need some manly tools for this job

[c4racer]

this is the chisel I am talking about. Note the handle. Very helpful tool. Cut the end off and make it into a blunt punch. I used a air cut-off tool, probably at least 5min of cutting - it is solid steel.

[m5james]

I had to do something like this on my other truck a few months ago, but it has A style lower and upper control arms. I'm just worried about screwing up the balljoint boots when trying to remove the lower control arms. I've also already got the rotors and calipers off, so I'm going to have to reinstall them so the hub doesn't just spin when trying to remove that huge nut. I'm not worried, just annoyed that it ruined my mood after doing all my pretty painting. :

[c4racer]

You only need to remove one ball joint. I did not hurt the boot one bit, and I used a pickle fork - although it doesn't take much force to get it off unlike some. And you are right that you will have to re-assemble to get that nut off, that sucker is on there big time. I have been able to remove them on FWD japanese cars by using a long rod against the wheel studs, but BMW doesn't use studs, so can't even try to do that. Plus it really takes a crapload of force to break those 36mm spindle nuts. I have also done this on a 3/4ton 4x4 suburban and I would say the nut was about the same on both. But the X5 axle is way way harder to get out than the chevy one was. Much tighter fit.

Originally Posted by m5james

I had to do something like this on my other truck a few months ago, but it has A style lower and upper control arms. I'm just worried about screwing up the balljoint boots when trying to remove the lower control arms. I've also already got the rotors and calipers off, so I'm going to have to reinstall them so the hub doesn't just spin when trying to remove that huge nut. I'm not worried, just annoyed that it ruined my mood after doing all my pretty painting. :

[X5 Meister]

That would be called thermoplastic. See this thread, post # 15.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...cv-boot-2.html

Originally Posted by TurnAround

My cry is to all auto makers; Its like.. umm.. you KNOW the boots are going to fail. You know it. So make 'em out of half inch thick NASA space shuttle uber durometer inter terciary space folding dynamo rubber.. and charge another $5.00 per car to pay for it. Isn't that smarter than risking your rep on a very expensive repair?

[m5james]

Originally Posted by c4racer

You only need to remove one ball joint. I did not hurt the boot one bit, and I used a pickle fork - although it doesn't take much force to get it off unlike some. And you are right that you will have to re-assemble to get that nut off, that sucker is on there big time. I have been able to remove them on FWD japanese cars by using a long rod against the wheel studs, but BMW doesn't use studs, so can't even try to do that. Plus it really takes a crapload of force to break those 36mm spindle nuts. I have also done this on a 3/4ton 4x4 suburban and I would say the nut was about the same on both. But the X5 axle is way way harder to get out than the chevy one was. Much tighter fit.

So I started working on the X today...that axle is definately a bear to get loose. I'm taking a break from abusing my truck to eat, but it's definately in there good. So far I've broken loose the rear lower control arm and steering rod at the balljoint by just leaving the nut on the top and using my framing hammer to knock them loose from their holes, but I have not removed them completely. I used my Dremel and gave my pickle fork nicer rounded edges then greased it up nicely before I slide it over the balljoint bushing, but once slide on there, it was already loose enough to remove.

I tried renting a hub puller from Autozone, but the holes we're like 1/4" off from lining up. I also tried the stealership to see about borrowing there tool, but it was a no go. He also that that using the puller and/or hammer method that we're doing is going to ruin the bearing...basically trying to scare me. I've been trying to beat it out the axle from the hub using a 3/4" 28mm socket (to stay on the top of the meat of the nut instead of the 12 points) placed over the axle nut w/ a 4" extension so I don't have to stand so close. It doesn't seem to have budged yet, but maybe after lunch it'll wanna give up and let me win.

[c4racer]

hmm - that might work, but use a 3-4lb sledge and hit the snot out of it. Don't forget to douse it with PB blaster or similar.

I can't see how hitting the end of the spindle would hurt the bearing inside the hub - is that the bearing the dealer is talking about? Anyway - some dealer techs do it this way instead of using a puller as well, so I don't think it is a problem. Thinking about the forces involved based on where you are focusing the hits I do not see how the bearing can get hurt, but that's just my take on it.