4.8 Front Air Suspension - Page 6

AZX54.4 · #51 10-05-2010, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jek889

I just received and installed my Arnott struts today, and they look and work great. No rust or appearance issues, and they fit perfectly. The install itself is not too difficult for a DIY project. All you need are some basic hand tools, a floor jack, and jack stands. Took about 4 hours total to do both sides. An extra set of hands helps to line up the strut bolts. My X now rides and turns like new again. Boy, what a difference! Now I just have to figure out how to clear the SLS inactive warning from the computer.

Would you mind making a step by step little DIY on how to do this job? Just saying the process from unscrewing the top bold, the air supply hose, etc.... I think it would be helpful.

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AZX54.4 · #52 10-05-2010, 02:15 PM

My new air strut from arnott was sent out yesterday. It should arrive by the end of the week! I am very pleased with their customer care and quick responses to emails. I am excited to get the new one to see the condition it is in and get the X back on the street. I will give you guys an update when it arrives!

jek889 · #53 10-05-2010, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZX54.4

Would you mind making a step by step little DIY on how to do this job? Just saying the process from unscrewing the top bold, the air supply hose, etc.... I think it would be helpful.

I didn't take pictures, but as you proceed with the project, you will see what parts and locations on the vehicle I'm describing. This install was done on my '06 4.8is, but I think all the X5 front strut air suspensions are the same. Although only my driver's side strut was bad, I changed both sides as it is the recommended procedure.

1. You need to gather the necessary tools (this is what I used): 10mm and 13mm (3/8in drive and univ. joint), 17mm, 19mm, and 22mm sockets (1/2in drive and extensions); 1/2in breaker bar, torque wrench; 12mm, 13mm and 18mm wrench; large adj. wrench; punch; hammer; floor jack; jack stands.

2. Remove the negative terminal from the battery, or pull the fuses for the air compressor in the cargo bay.

3. Jack up the car, set it on jack stands, and remove the wheel (I started w/the driver's side).

4. Open up the hood and locate the strut tower. Remove the plastic center cap from the top of the strut assembly.

5. Note the location of the strut top mounting bolts. The mounting holes are slotted and the bolts will sit forward, middle or back in the slot. Mark a reference point to reassemble in the same position later and retain original camber as much as possible (I had no problem w/camber angle and my X still tracks straight after the install). I did this by removing one bolt and marking the bolt's location on the strut tower. Loosen the remaining nuts, but do not remove all of them yet as they will hold the strut in place until you are ready to release it (one nut on each tower is near the firewall and hard to reach. I used a 3/8in universal joint to turn them). On the passenger's side, you will need to move the washer fluid reservoir (remove the 2 plastic retaining nuts and lift the reservoir up and slightly to the side to expose the hidden strut retaining nut).

6. Locate the area in the center of the strut downtube that holds the brake hose and sway bar end link. Remove the brake hose retaining clip, and pull the grommet out of its slot. Keep the loose hose out of the way so it doesn't get damaged.

7. Remove the sway bar end link connection (this was actually the toughest part of the job). You need to lift the rotor/spindle assembly up until tension is relieved from the sway bar and the end link is centerd in the mounting hole (I used a floor jack under the brake rotor to lift the spindle asssembly). Remove the retaining nut and check the angle of the stud to make sure it is pointing straight. Locate the small indentation in the end of the stud, and use a suitable punch and hammer to knock the stud loose from the mounting hole (it should pop out). Be careful not to damage the threads, or the end of the stud, or you will not be able to reinstall the retaining nut. After the end link is removed, lower the spindle assembly to its lowest point to take pressure off the strut assembly.

8. Leave the floor jack in place under the brake rotor to support the spindle assembly. Depressurize the air bag at the top of the strut (mine was leaking, so all the air was gone, but you can just cut a hole in the bag to let any air out since the bag is not going to be re-used anyways). Locate the two large bolts holding the bottom of the strut downtube to the spindle assembly.

9. Remove the top retaining bolt and wire bracket from the strut downtube and spindle (I used a 1/2in breaker bar to loosen the nuts as they are torqued very tight). You will need to hold the opposite end of the bolt to keep it from spinning (an adj. wrench works fine). Make sure not to damage any wires and keep them out of the way while working.

10. Make sure the rotor is still supported, and remove the lower retaining bolt. At this point, the spindle assembly can be pulled away from the bottom of the strut downtube, and the strut assembly will hang freely by the remaining top retaining nuts. Be careful as any air pressure remaining in the bag will cause the strut to extend unexpectedly and possibly do some serious damage to you or your vehicle. Make sure to de-pressurize the air bag first!

11. Support the bottom of the strut tube, and remove the remaining nuts from the top of the strut tower (the strut assembly weighs about 15lbs+, so be careful not to drop it as it will hit the hoses and wires below it, and pull out the air supply line too). Lower the strut assembly a few inches to expose the brass air connection on the air bag at the top of the strut assembly (I used a wooden block to support the bottom of the strut tube so I didn't have to keep holding it). You might have to remove the inner wheel well liner to access the air line, but I didn't have to do that in my case. Remove the air supply line from the air bag and clean the tip of the air hose connector (keep any dirt out of the line).

12. Remove the old strut assemlby from the wheel well.

Installation of the new strut assembly is basically the reverse of the above. Again, re-installing the end link was the trickiest part as the stud will often spin and you will not be able to tighten the retaining nut. You can use a wrench to hold the stud (look for the grooves at the end of the stud near the ball joint). You might also be able to tighten it by pressing the back of the stud/ball joint up against the mounting hole really tight (this worked on the driver's side, but on the passenger's side, I had to resort to using a pair of locking needle nose Vise-Grips to hold the stud). Make sure to double check all your work.

After everything is back in place, lower the vehicle and reconnect power to the compressor. The strut air bag should fill automatically and you will see the vehicle rise. If not, try jacking it back up to fully extend the strut, and then lower it back down to get the compressor to start up and pressurize the system.

Feel free to PM me if you need any other info. or help with your install. I'd be happy to help.

AZX54.4 · #54 10-05-2010, 04:48 PM

jek889: Great write up. I think this will be very helpful to many people!!

Ambrosius · #55 10-07-2010, 02:30 AM

AZ,

I ordered the left side strut the day before yesterday. Still haven't received any confirmation emails letting me that it has been shipped. I just hope that I don't get the one you shipped back to them.

AZX54.4 · #56 10-07-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ambrosius

AZ,

I ordered the left side strut the day before yesterday. Still haven't received any confirmation emails letting me that it has been shipped. I just hope that I don't get the one you shipped back to them.

Haha, you probably wont. I don't think that one is going to go back into circulation. If you haven't received notification just give them a call and they will be able to help you. I think for one of my orders I didn't really get any email confirmation.
My new one arrives possibly today or tomorrow!! I am anxious to see what I get.
One other thing. When I ordered my left front they were out of refurbished cores and there is no indication of this on their website or on any emails. So, it could be worthwhile to give them a call and get confirmation that they have them in stock and it has been shipped.

Ambrosius · #57 10-07-2010, 01:58 PM

AZ,

I just called them, they told me that they already shipped and provided me with a tracking number. Looks like they shipped it the next day after the order. I have a delivery date of Monday.

Did you use the 10% off coupon that is floating around the internet? It at least saves you from having to pay shipping.

jek889 · #58 10-07-2010, 01:59 PM

My oem cores went back this week, and other than the leak in the driver's side bag, there were in great shape. I hope that whoever gets them after they are rebuilt gets some good use out of them!

AZX54.4 · #59 10-07-2010, 04:26 PM

Yup, I did use one of the 10% discount codes. The one I used was from a mercedes forum I believe!! That was a lot of fun to find that discount!! Arnott is about to get a nice supply of cores from all of use real soon! We are all probably running on each others old air struts haha.

AZX54.4 · #60 10-08-2010, 06:22 PM

I received the new air strut from arnott today! It is in excellent condition (probably someones air strut from this forum). The quality of this one has exceeded my expectations. No rust or any imperfections. Looks like a brand new one!

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