CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[daneshfar]

Quicksilver did you read my post. I did get an indie and the SOB would not let me use my parts unless I lost the warranty. What good was the damn warranty of one year and now only 30k miles later the damn thing is ripped. I should have bought my own part!! I believe these things rip alot easier than we think, even my original was ripped at 45K, It might have something to do with how much you turn? I turn alot to get into and out of my own garage. So now I would like to try myself.

[Quicksilver]

daneshfar

I believe this thread has over 160 replies. If you noticed I referred my
comments to those who decided to DIY. I didn't mention your name.
But if my 2 cents matters both outer front boots lasted about 85K.
I just didn't have time to tackle this repair

Originally Posted by daneshfar

Quicksilver did you read my post. I did get an indie and the SOB would not let me use my parts unless I lost the warranty. What good was the damn warranty of one year and now only 30k miles later the damn thing is ripped. I should have bought my own part!! I believe these things rip alot easier than we think, even my original was ripped at 45K, It might have something to do with how much you turn? I turn alot to get into and out of my own garage. So now I would like to try myself.

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by Quicksilver

.......But if my 2 cents matters both outer front boots lasted about 85K......

Mileage is NOT a major factor in CV boot failure, severe steering angles (city parking in tight spaces) and exposure to severe thermal cycle combined with harsh de-icing products (magnesium chloride on roads spread prior to/during/after snow & icing, this stuff dries out rubber/plastic and accelerates corrossion on every item of a vehicle with the exception of glass, EVERY vehicle manufacturer states in their owners manual that this crud needs to be removed after EVERY exposure, most owners don't even do it every spring. ). Electric motors in a garage where you park will also produce ozone that will dry out rubber.

Many in the market for a used vehicle will avoid snow/rust belt vehicles like the plague due to the destructive elements applied to their roads.

My X will be 10 yrs old in 6 months, TX and FL use, NEVER seen snow in over 160k miles and looks 6 month old underneath.

FWIW, still running the ORIGINAL CV boots/air suspension bags. Even with thousands of miles towing trailers (5000 to 7500 lbs) between TX and FL.

[floydturbo]

I just replaced the drivers side outer boot in less than an hour. A year or two ago I did the front right outer boot using the method where you take off the axle nut. This method is so much easier. A few notes. Remove the suspension strut with a 16mm and 18mm socket. Use the vise grip and large screwdriver to take the play out of the system. I then used a brass 3/4" by 10" long drift with a 3lb hammer. After 2-3 hits, the joint came apart. The rest is just dirty work. The trick is the preload the joint and then hit with a hammer. Also, when putting the splined shaft back into the joint, use a small screw driver to compress the c clip in the groove.

[Multibeemer]

You're one of the lucky ones - go out and buy a lottery ticket. I pried and pounded on that outer axle connection for over an hour with practically every tool in my garage, and it wouldn't budge a micron. Many others have had the same experience, and were forced to remove the inside splined connection, which makes the job take five times as long.

[stevekat]

Before I'd go through the mess of removing the inside connection, I'd take off the axle nut and push the axle out of the hub. I used a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight with 20% off coupon. I believe it was $80 or $100. Used a bull nose chisel with it. Not too bad considering it can be used for future work (or the other side!)

[UKenGB]

I just did the Fr LH outer CV boot. I removed caliper and rotor and released the disc guard just because that was all very easy and made it easier to work on the rest. Overall, it's not complicated, however you choose to do it, but do NOT underestimate how hard it can be to get the shaft out of the CV joint.

As with many jobs like this, applying force in the correct place in the correct direction is of paramount importance. I found a hammer and drift to be a complete waste of time. I used a variety of tools to hold the shaft so I could lever off the CV joint. For a long time it just seemed impossible, then I got it just right and with no great force, off it popped. As I said, it's the correct application of the force that's important.

Getting the shaft back in the centre of the CV joint was easy. By hand get it started, then use a screwdriver to carefully centralise the C clip and a bit of a push and it's all together. Certainly no hammering required. I didn't hear any click, but once together it was once again easy to slide the shaft in and out a few mm (clearance of C clip in its groove) as before which confirms it's all in place.

Next time I might make a tool to clamp on the shaft and provide that perfect point for leverage and the job will be much quicker, but 30 mins? That just doesn't seem possible.