CV BOOT REPLACED IN 30 MINUTES

[Multibeemer]

You're one of the lucky ones - go out and buy a lottery ticket. I pried and pounded on that outer axle connection for over an hour with practically every tool in my garage, and it wouldn't budge a micron. Many others have had the same experience, and were forced to remove the inside splined connection, which makes the job take five times as long.

[stevekat]

Before I'd go through the mess of removing the inside connection, I'd take off the axle nut and push the axle out of the hub. I used a rotary hammer from Harbor Freight with 20% off coupon. I believe it was $80 or $100. Used a bull nose chisel with it. Not too bad considering it can be used for future work (or the other side!)

[UKenGB]

I just did the Fr LH outer CV boot. I removed caliper and rotor and released the disc guard just because that was all very easy and made it easier to work on the rest. Overall, it's not complicated, however you choose to do it, but do NOT underestimate how hard it can be to get the shaft out of the CV joint.

As with many jobs like this, applying force in the correct place in the correct direction is of paramount importance. I found a hammer and drift to be a complete waste of time. I used a variety of tools to hold the shaft so I could lever off the CV joint. For a long time it just seemed impossible, then I got it just right and with no great force, off it popped. As I said, it's the correct application of the force that's important.

Getting the shaft back in the centre of the CV joint was easy. By hand get it started, then use a screwdriver to carefully centralise the C clip and a bit of a push and it's all together. Certainly no hammering required. I didn't hear any click, but once together it was once again easy to slide the shaft in and out a few mm (clearance of C clip in its groove) as before which confirms it's all in place.

Next time I might make a tool to clamp on the shaft and provide that perfect point for leverage and the job will be much quicker, but 30 mins? That just doesn't seem possible.

[StephenVA]

I just completed this project over the weekend on a 05 X5 4.8is. I used the pop out the shaft from the CV joint after removing the lower control arm process as described multiple times in this topic. The job was easy, fast and completed in less time than I expected due to the fact I was doing this in a driveway with hand tools only.
I cheated on the prying the shaft out of the CV joint as I did not use Vice Grips on the shaft. I have a Miller Specialty tool for removing Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Torsion Bars, which is nothing more than a big twin V-block out of hi $$ steel that clamps down on round bars using 4 grade 8 hex bolts drilled and taped on each corner. Comes with a handy handle that treads into the unit for rotation and easy movement.
No these images are NOT of a BMW X5........

The step of getting the CV joint passed the clip (releasing the joint from the shaft) just required a little extra pressure AND out it popped. A quick clean up with LOTS of paper towels kept the mess to a min. Getting the outer boot on, inserting the shaft back into the joint was easy. The trick of using a worm drive hose clamp (small) on the axle shaft on top of the c-clip makes this job easy to reassemble. Line up the shaft in the joint and apply a little pressure and it just clicks in place.
Total time of work included clean up, grilling brats, having a beer to celebrate 3 hrs. It took longer to set up the X5, put the tools away after cleaning all the grease off, grilling the brats, and eating than I think it took to do the job itself. Eating the brats knowing the job was completed successfully was the best part.

Thanks to another X5/M5 owner who came by to help for his arm pulling/pressing and the great conversations. Made it easy and fun. I would recommend this DIY for anyone with a reasonable amount of repair skills. Rank it up as a #6 on the 1 to 10 scale of effort/knowledge/tool level. ( a #10 would be head removal or Vanos seal replace and clean job on a M5. Spark plugs on the X5 is a #1.5).

How would others who have completed this project rank it?

[stevekat]

It would be great if you could post a link to the tool.

Originally Posted by StephenVA

[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]I have a Miller Specialty tool for removing Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth Torsion Bars, which is nothing more than a big twin V-block out of hi $$ steel that clamps down on round bars using 4 grade 8 hex bolts drilled and taped on each corner. Comes with a handy handle that treads into the unit for rotation and easy movement.