Car starts....Then stalls out - Page 2

Weasel · #1 07-06-2010, 12:59 PM

If it is the MAF the multiplicative values would be off, which could be read with the GT1. Otherwise it also could be either of the cam sensors or the crank sensor dropping the signal. When that is the problem it has to happen 4 or 5 times before it throws a code, sometimes more...

jst2878 · #2 07-06-2010, 01:00 PM

i had sprayed it down with maf cleaner and that didnt solve the small lying issue that occurs every so often. if I can just get my hands on the sensor alone and replace mine i would be satisfied. that would be the cost of a diagnostic in my area

flyingmachine · #3 07-06-2010, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jst2878

i had sprayed it down with maf cleaner and that didnt solve the small lying issue that occurs every so often. if I can just get my hands on the sensor alone and replace mine i would be satisfied. that would be the cost of a diagnostic in my area

I can help you read the code and check some data if you can drive to central nj. I have autoenginuity with bmw enhancement module.

I wouldn't throw parts in before finding the cause.

papasmurf · #4 07-06-2010, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jst2878

i had sprayed it down with maf cleaner and that didnt solve the small lying issue that occurs every so often. if I can just get my hands on the sensor alone and replace mine i would be satisfied. that would be the cost of a diagnostic in my area

My boss charges 90 bucks for a scan with a GT1. I scanned mine and have no codes at all.

Out of curiosity, have your valve cover gaskets been done? Mine haven't and I have a sneaking suspicion that oil is getting onto the plugs and causing the problem. I'm going to snag a set of valve covers and powdercoat them, then swap.

jst2878 · #5 07-06-2010, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papasmurf

My boss charges 90 bucks for a scan with a GT1. I scanned mine and have no codes at all.

Out of curiosity, have your valve cover gaskets been done? Mine haven't and I have a sneaking suspicion that oil is getting onto the plugs and causing the problem. I'm going to snag a set of valve covers and powdercoat them, then swap.

the valve cover gaskets were done almost two years ago along with oil seperator. my friend checked for codes and nothing came up so I will go with ethanol being the culprit in such hot weather. until a light comes on Im going to spend the rest of my hours this week installing that 3m dinoc CF wrap....just have the shifter,center console, steering wheel and rear cup holder to go. pretty easy stuff and it looks great

sunny5280 · #6 07-06-2010, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jst2878

i had sprayed it down with maf cleaner and that didnt solve the small lying issue that occurs every so often. if I can just get my hands on the sensor alone and replace mine i would be satisfied. that would be the cost of a diagnostic in my area

I'm curious as to why you're primarily interested in obtaining just the sensor and not the entire assembly. The sensor is the expensive component and it's unlikely you'd save a lot of money purchasing it without the housing.

For what it's worth this does not sound like a MAF problem because the SEL is not illuminated. A quick and dirty check to help determine if it is MAF related is to unplug the MAF. This will cause the SEL to illuminate and the system will use fail-safe parameters which are sufficient to operate the vehicle. If the stalling disappears then the MAF would be suspect. If not it's unlikely to be the MAF.

Weasel · #7 07-06-2010, 01:17 PM

If that diagnostic setup is able to read the adaptive and multiplicative values it can help with determining if the MAF is good or not.

flyingmachine · #8 07-06-2010, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weasel

If that diagnostic setup is able to read the adaptive and multiplicative values it can help with determining if the MAF is good or not.

I think it should be. It reads mixture adaption additive and multiplicative for M62 DME. I'll have to hook it up and try sometime this week though.

THK · #9 07-06-2010, 01:55 PM

Have a question. When the vehicle starts and dies, on re-start will the vehilce run then. Reason I am asking, the fuels with ethanol have a tendancy to boil within the fuel lines and as we know, fuel injection systems need liquid to operate and not vapors. If you car runs on after restart the problem is usually fuel.

I have had problems with this on other EFI based cars and an airplane. Ethanol based fuels tend to exhibit this charteristic when the temperatures increase. Many manufactures have issued bulletins on this concern.

If the mechanical and electricals all check out, welome to the ethanol world.

Oh yeah, we had a few days so far this year in rainey Washington whe the temps went up into the upper 70's and low 80's and the X3 had to be cranked several times after a hot soak re-start.

jst2878 · #10 07-06-2010, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THK

Have a question. When the vehicle starts and dies, on re-start will the vehilce run then. Reason I am asking, the fuels with ethanol have a tendancy to boil within the fuel lines and as we know, fuel injection systems need liquid to operate and not vapors. If you car runs on after restart the problem is usually fuel.

I have had problems with this on other EFI based cars and an airplane. Ethanol based fuels tend to exhibit this charteristic when the temperatures increase. Many manufactures have issued bulletins on this concern.

If the mechanical and electricals all check out, welome to the ethanol world.

Oh yeah, we had a few days so far this year in rainey Washington whe the temps went up into the upper 70's and low 80's and the X3 had to be cranked several times after a hot soak re-start.

good to know. the last two times this occured was in the scoldering hear. I will wait to check the codes and then decide what to do. but I do use 10%ethanol from my gas station